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  • Travis
    Travis

    Tips And Tricks

    There was a great idea posted in this thread about making a list of tips and tricks for scrollers. Having them in one place would be a great resource for new scrollers, and a fun place for seasoned scrollers to find new ideas.

     

    So post your favorite tips here and I'll add it to the list. Please keep the tips short and sweet so it's easy to read and add to the list.

     

    Let the sharing begin! :thumbs:

     

     

    ===================================================

    On 4/7/2015 at 8:11 AM, jerry1939 said:

    I am a "bottom feeder." After drilling a few holes, I take an awl and enlarge the bottom of the holes. This creates a funnel shape to put the blade in. On a large piece, if you have trouble seeing the hole, lay a CD on the saw table. It reflects A LOT of light up.

    On 4/7/2015 at 9:01 AM, Multifasited said:

    Take a pencil #2 rotate in hole makes it very visible.

    On 4/7/2015 at 9:42 AM, amazingkevin said:

    If you have a small grinder ,taper your blades like an arrow .

    On 4/7/2015 at 5:04 PM, edward said:

    I keep a push pin by the saw. Push it through the pilot hole and it works for me.

    On 1/6/2016 at 5:40 PM, orangeman said:

    1. small engineer's square for getting the 90 degree angle which is critical for puzzles

    2. packaging tape for blade lubrication.

    3. paste wax for the table

    4. band aids for those inevitable nicks on the fingers.

    5. Magnifying light.

    6. Good quality blades

    7. Dust mask or central vac system with good pick-up.

    8. Adjustable height chair with back support (drafting stool)

    9. Subscription to "ScrollSaw Workshop and crafts"

    10 3M sanding wheels (for use with drill, drill press, or lathe)

    11 3M "77" adhesive spray for permanent bond or Elmer's spray adhesive for temporary bond.

    On 1/6/2016 at 5:50 PM, jerry1939 said:

    [For Squaring The Blade] - I cut into a scrap. Stop the saw, spin the wood around to the back of the blade. If the blade goes into the cut, you're good. Low tech, but accurate.

    On 1/6/2016 at 6:32 PM, rjR said:

    For projects due to be repeated; I use a thin stable materiel (hardboard-- plastic etc.) and cut the template to re-use along with the original cuts!

     

    I also use an additional blade lube of old WHITE preferred candles ran right into the blade-- even between cuts. I have fantastic blade life.

    On 1/6/2016 at 7:43 PM, Sparkey said:

    I like having an air compressor with spray nozzle to blow all of the dust off my work when its finished.

     

    I always spray a clear coat over fretwork before I frame it to keep any stray sawdust off the inside of the plexiglass.

    On 1/7/2016 at 6:39 AM, jamminjack said:

    [Replacement Dust Blower] - I went and purchased an aquarium air pump and hooked it to the saw. Very powerful, and no more problems with saw dust on the project.

    On 1/7/2016 at 2:18 PM, Doug said:

    Use a sacrificial board under your piece with the pattern when drilling holes to avoid push out and after drilling sand the back with 220 grit so the surface on the saw table is smooth

    On 1/7/2016 at 2:39 PM, jerry1939 said:

    For really intricate cutting (especially 1/8"), I usually put a sacrifice luan ply above and below the piece. Saw all 3 pieces the same size and wrap with blue tape. Often put a dab of glue in the 4 corners also.

    On 4/9/2016 at 7:13 AM, Old Joe said:

    I keep a very small, cheap, shop vac next to my saw and use it constantly. I have also installed a ceiling mounted dust collector. Just blowing off the dust with the compressor is spreading it around the shop and it will end up in your finely sanded, oiled finish, not to mention your nose and lungs.

    On 4/9/2016 at 8:03 AM, Dan said:

    I have a cardboard box that I place over items I have applied a finish to. It protects the finish from any dust I happen to blow around while working on other projects.

    On 4/10/2016 at 7:28 AM, Jim Finn said:

    I have an $8 hair dryer blowing the dust off of my work as I saw.

    On 4/10/2016 at 7:28 AM, Jim Finn said:

    To use more of your blade teeth you can cut off the bottom 3/4" of a dulled blade reinstall, and you will then be using the unused teeth. Not sure all saws will accommodate the shorter blade but all mine will.

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    here is my list of tips/topics for a future seminar I am presenting:

     

     

    1. small engineer's square for getting the 90 degree angle which is critical for puzzles

    2. packaging tape for blade lubrication.

    3. paste wax for the table

    4. band aids for those inevitable nicks on the fingers.

    5. Magnifying light.

    6. Good quality blades

    7. Dust mask or central vac system with good pick-up.

    8. Adjustable height chair with back support (drafting stool)

    9. Subscription to "ScrollSaw Workshop and crafts"

    10 3M sanding wheels (for use with drill, drill press, or lathe)

    11 3M "77" adhesive spray for permanent bond or Elmer's spray adhesive for temporary bond.

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    For projects due to be repeated; I use a thin stable materiel (hardboard-- plastic etc.) and cut the template to re-use along with the  original cuts!

     

    I also use an additional blade lube of old WHITE preferred candles ran right into the blade-- even between cuts. I have fantastic blade life.

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    I can't  count how many times I have replaced the bellows in my saw.  For whatever reason they tend to rip very easily.

    Finely enough was enough.  I went and purchased an aquarium air pump and hooked it to the saw.  Problem solved.

    Been in place for over two years, no problems.  Very powerful, and no more problems with saw dust on the project. :cool: 

     

     

    Jamminjack

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    1.  When trying out a finish for the first time always try it out on a scrap piece of wood of the type you want to put the finish on, that way if you muck it up or dislike it you have not ruined the work that you have just finished.

     

    2.  When working on a large piece, DO NOT drill all the holes at once, because if it breaks and is unfixable you have still the rest of the wood to make something else, whereas if you have drilled all the holes all you have is fire wood.

     

    Marg

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    Hi Doug,

     

    For really intricate cutting (especially 1/8"), I usually put a sacrifice luan ply above and below the piece.  Saw all 3 pieces the same size and wrap with blue tape.  Often put a dab of glue in the 4 corners also. 

     

    jerry

    Jerry, why not just cut three copies of the pattern? Essentially, that's what your already doing, it's just that your cutting one good copy, and two copies to waste. If you don't want to be bothered sanding the bottom copy, sure cut it out of waste wood. But, there's no reason your two top copies couldn't be kept.

    Len

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    Lucky2,

     

    Your point is well taken, however, I NEVER feel I want or have a need for multiple copies of the same piece. One of my many hang ups is that I don't ever want any 2 of my pieces to be the same. Never sold any of my work.

     

    Thanks for the comment Friend,

     

    jerry

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    When doing signs or word art in the past, I sprayed the entire oversized backer. Glued on the cut piece as usual and cut the perimeter last.  This would often show a thin black line between the 2 boards.

     

    Now I mask the backer before painting and only paint the area that will show, but don't paint near the perimeter.  The finished piece looks more professional.

     

    jerry

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    For bottom feeding detailed picture scrolling I use a hemostat to help feed the #3/0 blade into the tiny #65 hole and to pull it through from the top.

     

    My hemostats become magnetized often.  I put heat shrink tubing over the jaws to prevent the magnetism from grabbing the blade where I did want to grab it.  Worked great.

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