Which Scroll Saw Blades Should I Buy?

One of the first questions a new scroller often asks is, “Which scroll saw blade should I use?”  After all, the sheer number of options can be overwhelming and they don't know where to start.  Often the answer they receive is “it depends,” followed by a flood of advice.  And while this is true, sometimes someone new to the hobby just wants a simple answer:  “Here, buy this.”  Hopefully, this article will help.

Where to Buy Scroll Saw Blades

While hardware stores carry scroll saw blades, these are often designed for construction, not hobbyists.  They’re usually too thick, don’t cut as well, and harder to control.  For finer, more detailed work, you will want to order specialty blades from an online store that specializes in scroll sawing.  But don’t worry, they’re pretty cheap. 

There are 3 big brands of scroll saw blades for hobbyists:  Flying Dutchman, Pegas, and Olson.

I only have experience with Flying Dutchman, which I buy from Mike’s Workshop (not sponsored), so I’ll focus on that.  However, the blade sizes and tooth configurations are similar across the other brands.

So, Which Scroll Saw Blades Should I buy?

Let’s keep it simple. If you’re just starting, I recommend buying  #3 scroll reverse and #5 scroll reverse scroll saw blades.  These two blades are the workhorses in my shop and I rarely need anything else.

• #3 Scroll Reverse - This is my go-to blade, handling about 75% of my projects.  It leaves clean, smooth cuts and offers great control for tight turns, sharp inside corners, and straight lines.  The blade pivots and turns easily.  It works well on thin materials without getting too squirrelly, and it works well on thick materials without bogging down.
• #5 Scroll Reverse - I use this blade for thicker materials and hardwoods.  This blade is more durable and performs well with anything over ¾”.  Since the blade is thicker, it doesn’t wander as much, which makes it ideal for projects that have long straight lines or sweeping curves.  The trade-off is that it is harder to turn and pivot.  So, fine details are more challenging to achieve.  It may also be a bit aggressive for thin materials.

FYI:  The number is the size (ie, thickness) of the blade.  “Scroll reverse” means that the bottom of the blade has teeth facing the opposite way.  This reduces tear-out (or fuzzies) on the back of your project and generally produces a smoother finish.

How Many Should I Buy?

This is rather arbitrary.  However, my go-to blade is a #3 scroll reverse about 75% of the time.  They are typically sold in bundles of 12.  You’ll also go through a lot of them, so make sure you stock up.  Remember, blades wear out.  As soon as a blade stops cutting smoothly, replace it. You'll get better results and a more enjoyable scrolling experience. Luckily, blades are cheap, usually costing between 25-45 cents each.  It's common to replace your blade several times in a project.

So if you’re just starting out:

• #3 Scroll Reverse - 4 dozen
• #5 Scroll Reverse - 2 dozen

Feel free to adjust these numbers to take advantage of bulk discounts or to make shipping more economical.  

What About Spiral Blades?

This is a subject that has been debated…a lot.  Personally, I love spiral blades.  But, I only use them in certain situations.  It is very tempting for beginners to start with spiral blades because they seem (the key word here is “seem”) easier and you have a lot of flexibility.  However, I recommend you learn with flat blades.  Here’s why:

Scroll sawing is about blade control.  It’s learning how fast to feed your project into the blade, applying the right pressure, and following the patterns smoothly.  Flat blades offer more control and stability because they only cut in one direction, making it easier to follow your lines. If you veer off track, you can easily guide the blade back to the line.

Spiral blades, on the other hand, will cut in all directions.  This makes it challenging because if your feed rate or pressure is off, or the blade gets caught in the wood grain, the blade will continue to cut.  As a result, you’ll get uneven/wiggly lines, and your results will not look very professional.

So, to recap:

• Flat blades provide better control for straight lines, sweeping curves, and sharp corners. I use flat blades for most of my projects.
• Spiral blades are useful for patterns with irregular or organic shapes with many interior cuts, such as portraits or scenic designs.  They can also be useful in situations where it is difficult to spin your workpiece because of the size or other limiting factors.  

What Next?

From here, it’s all about experimenting and trying different things to see what you like.  Try a different brand.  Try different sizes or tooth configurations.  If you tend to cut thick hardwoods, you might want to try a larger blade with a skip tooth configuration.  If you like doing jigsaw puzzles, maybe a smaller blade with a thinner kerf and more teeth per inch is what you need.  If you’re cutting unusual materials, a different blade may make all the difference.  The key is to experiment and ask what others use to see what works for you.

Did I miss something?  Do you have any recommendations for a new scroller?  Leave a comment below.