Epoxy Filled Scroll Saw Projects

This is just the latest process that I'm using. It's constantly evolving and I'm looking forward to seeing any ideas from other scrollers that might improve on it. Getting new ideas and learning new tricks is something that I have always enjoyed about meeting other woodworkers and seeing their work.

Affix your pattern to the wood. This is a Celtic cross design from Sue Mey that I like.

Make your interior cuts. I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of the wood. Then I cover the face of the design with a double layer of packing tape to use as a backer for the resin.

I use common plumber's putty to build a (dam) around the design.

After trying many different brands. I found the Promise brand deep pour tabletop epoxy works best for me. I also use a digital scale to make sure that I get an exact 50/50 mix to the gram.

I use Alumilite dyes and powders.

It doesn't take much of either. 1 drop of the dye and just a little of the gold and green powders. The amount of powder shown here is about twice the amount needed.

When you are mixing. Mix the resin and colors slowly while scraping the sides and bottom of the container. Try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum.

Then slowly pour the mixture trying to fill all the holes evenly.

Once poured. I use a cheap hair dryer to heat the resin and get as many bubbles out as I can.

I let it sit for 24-36 hours to harden. I keep my shop around 70 degrees.

After the has hardened, I remove as much of the plumber's putty as I can and run it through my planer to level the back surface down to the clean wood.

I make very shallow passes. Maybe 1/32 at a time.

Now I drill an entry hole and make the exterior cuts.

I save the wood from the outside of the design and peel all the tape off.

I put the piece back into the wood that I cut it from and tape the back side to hold it. This is to protect the piece while running it back through the planer.

Then I lightly shave the front of the piece down until I get it down to clean wood.

Then remove the piece and sand. I start with 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, and finish with 800. 

Once done you can apply the finish of your choice. I use clear polyurethane.

I hope you enjoyed reading about my process and I look forward to seeing the projects you make.  The next photo is a different cross but shows what it looks like when finished.