Resaw Issue

[browders]

I usually by 3/4" thick boards which I can resaw into different thicknesses as needed. I think I save a little money that way. My problem is that sometimes I'll run a perfectly straight piece of wood through the bandsaw and end up with two thinner pieces which have bows in them. Is there an answer to getting straight pieces, or am I doing something wrong? Any advice would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks.

 

Jim

[bobscroll]

I haven't got a bandsaw myself Jim, All I can say is, Have you tightened the blade enough are

the guides set right, Is the blade running true, That's all I can think of Jim,

Bob 

P.S. Have you gotten the right blade fitted for re-sawing, So you don't have to put too much

pressure on the wood to put it through? 

[LarryEA]

Bob covered everything except maybe is the blade dull

My advice was to buy a new expensive top of the line saw

 

[Jim Finn]

I re-saw a lot of wood to 3/8" thickness from 1" cedar and maple boards.  Some oak also.  I find that in order to keep the cut straight, while re-sawing the blade needs to be very sharp.  I use.... http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/contactus.html

. I get 1/2" carbide re-saw blades from them that work the best for me. Just a little more expensive than "woodslicer" blades, but last a lot longer.  I use a re-saw fence on my 14" GO555 saw..

Edited September 4, 2014 by Jim Finn

[amazingkevin]

Thanks for the info both of you,JIM that site doesn't come up.?

[Jim Finn]

I changed the link...Try that.

[browders]

Thanks for all the info. I'm gonna have to do a little research.

[Phantom Scroller]

Good advice by all nothing to add except don't force it let the blade do the work. Roly

[oldhudson]

I usually by 3/4" thick boards which I can resaw into different thicknesses as needed. I think I save a little money that way. My problem is that sometimes I'll run a perfectly straight piece of wood through the bandsaw and end up with two thinner pieces which have bows in them. Is there an answer to getting straight pieces, or am I doing something wrong? Any advice would be appreciated. 

 

Thanks.

 

Jim

Perhaps all the excellent advice has solved you problem? Not a good blade or insufficient tension. If not I had a couple of questions. Are you using a fence to re-saw or? Do the bows match? Is the grain fairly stright or is it knoted?

[stu]

its not the saw I think the lumber has some slight compression(just the grain of the wood on some trees when they grow) so you only notice it on thinner pieces. I've seen heavy compression so bad pieces 2ft thick 4ft wide looks like a rocking chair

Stu

Edited September 6, 2014 by stu

[browders]

Perhaps all the excellent advice has solved you problem? Not a good blade or insufficient tension. If not I had a couple of questions. Are you using a fence to re-saw or? Do the bows match? Is the grain fairly stright or is it knoted?

The problem doesn't seem to be with the blade or tension. I am using a fence. I'm now sure how straight the grain is, but it isn't knotted. It's as though at 3/4 inch the board will be straight, but at 1/4 inch it develops a bow. This doesn't happen all the time, and primarily with oak and poplar I've purchased at Home Depot.

 

Jim

Edited September 6, 2014 by browders

[MrsN]

some boards have lots of internal stress which makes them do weird things when they get cut.

 

when ripping a board on a table saw it is important to have a spliter installed behind the blade, because the natural stress in the board can cause it to pinch back together and bind on the blade. 

 

I once cut a 1 inch piece off a board and ended up with a corkscrew. 

 

the moisture level in the board may have something to do with its stability as well.

[ike]

If you use a good saw and good blades. The moisture could be the biggest factor in your problem. for best results the moisture should be 10% or less to insure a good cut.

ike

[heppnerguy]

I know you that you know what you are doing, but I would put in another blade and try it again.. still my guess. if you do that and it still does the same thing, all you lost was 10 minutes. If it ends up being the blade, Problem solved..

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[lonewolf]

I agree with stu, and  about the moisture content. Have you tried setting the wood down and then putting something heavy

 

on it and let it stay that way for a couple of days? It may help. But i am far from an expert, all of you seem to have more 

 

experiance than i have.

[herrwood]

If you are using wide boards 6" - 12" sometimes a higher fence then what came with the saw is needed to give it more suport.

[stu]

when you get compression wood there's no getting away from it, drying sometimes the piece will get worse, one of two things happen especially with heavy compression when resawing the two pieces pop apart or squeeze together and bind and possibly stop the saw 

stu

[LarryEA]

Goog luck.......

One last thought.

The wider (taller on the bandsaw) the more probability of error.

[Wilson's Woodworking]

some boards have lots of internal stress which makes them do weird things when they get cut.

 

when ripping a board on a table saw it is important to have a spliter installed behind the blade, because the natural stress in the board can cause it to pinch back together and bind on the blade. 

 

I once cut a 1 inch piece off a board and ended up with a corkscrew. 

 

the moisture level in the board may have something to do with its stability as well.

Right on target! The stress is relieved when you make a cut and this causes the bow. If it is a cathedral cut you will probably wind up with some nice rocking chair rockers. A quarter sawn board should have less stress in it but you may get some bow in it and the higher the moisture level the more the stress. If you think wood is interesting to work with due to bow try to cut stainless steel. I will bet Ike can chime in on that material. One little light cut on one side and holy cow what a bow.