don in brooklin on Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 I have always had trouble affixing stand alone letters to projects. If I can I cut the letters into the piece on a angle and have them stick out. Recently, I had 2 projects were I had to cut out letters separately and then glue on. My issue has been to get perfectly centred in a straight line with the correct spacing. I came up with this easy solution which may be old hat to many of you but it worked for me. Firstly I created a pattern with the spacing I wanted and added a line to the centre. I drilled started holes for each letter I cut the letters out using a #7 blade. Painted the letters. Lined up the pattern on the piece. Centered using the line I had put in the centre and had a board cut to line up the bottom. Taped in place and sprayed with accelerator. Put a few dabs of medium CA on the back of each letter and pressed in place. Removed pattern and I got the letters where I wanted them. A few dabs of CA seem to be holding just fine as the first project was to personalize a head board and they are fine so far. Project below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hey, Great idea. I affixed it in my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 I have always had trouble affixing stand alone letters to projects. If I can I cut the letters into the piece on a angle and have them stick out. Recently, I had 2 projects were I had to cut out letters separately and then glue on. My issue has been to get perfectly centred in a straight line with the correct spacing. I came up with this easy solution which may be old hat to many of you but it worked for me. Firstly I created a pattern with the spacing I wanted and added a line to the centre. I drilled started holes for each letter I cut the letters out using a #7 blade. Painted the letters. Lined up the pattern on the piece. Centered using the line I had put in the centre and had a board cut to line up the bottom. Taped in place and sprayed with accelerator. Put a few dabs of medium CA on the back of each letter and pressed in place. Removed pattern and I got the letters where I wanted them. A few dabs of CA seem to be holding just fine as the first project was to personalize a head board and they are fine so far. Project below. Thats fine ,works well ,but an awful lot of extra work ,IMHO ,You might want to try ,onepiece raised lettering ,like I did on my shop sign ,on projects that will fit with in you saw's throat limit ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 (edited) I have always had trouble affixing stand alone letters to projects. If I can I cut the letters into the piece on a angle and have them stick out. Recently, I had 2 projects were I had to cut out letters separately and then glue on. My issue has been to get perfectly centred in a straight line with the correct spacing. I came up with this easy solution which may be old hat to many of you but it worked for me. Firstly I created a pattern with the spacing I wanted and added a line to the centre. I drilled started holes for each letter I cut the letters out using a #7 blade. Painted the letters. Lined up the pattern on the piece. Centered using the line I had put in the centre and had a board cut to line up the bottom. Taped in place and sprayed with accelerator. Put a few dabs of medium CA on the back of each letter and pressed in place. Removed pattern and I got the letters where I wanted them. A few dabs of CA seem to be holding just fine as the first project was to personalize a head board and they are fine so far. Project below. Thats fine ,works well ,but an awful lot of extra work ,IMHO ,You might want to try ,onepiece raised lettering ,like I did on my shop sign ,on projects that will fit with in you saw's throat limit ! Perfect fit ,paint ,stain ,any combination ,glue hidden taper re-insert press and you are done ! Edited October 15, 2014 by Multifasited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 I might be missing a small detail, maybe not,. I've always or sometimes want to do it your way, but primed,and painted letters i, do, don't want to fit back thru the template with the extra primer and paint.I use a pin nailer to lock in the letters with liquid nails. the sign "inks pub" is done that way 3/4 thick letters in the user gallery.You did a good job. All roads lead to the same conclusion, lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 I might be missing a small detail, maybe not,. I've always or sometimes want to do it your way, but primed,and painted letters i, do, don't want to fit back thru the template with the extra primer and paint.I use a pin nailer to lock in the letters with liquid nails. the sign "inks pub" is done that way 3/4 thick letters in the user gallery.You did a good job. All roads lead to the same conclusion, lol! Kevin ,I Cheated ,In the four layer ,I used weathered wood ,and sanded off weathered effect between layers ,you could paint stain letters reinstall and clear top coat ,or stain ,glue and clear top coat ,your right unless you allow extra taper loose fit then make up difference with thick paint of choice re-install and hot glue from back after press-fit ,I was after the easiest fastest way to achieve the raised effect .I'm getting old and lazy ,always looking for the easy way to do things ! amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don in brooklin on Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 When I have a chance I do raised letters by cutting on the angle and pushing out. Works well for signs and see the sports plaque below. I only use free floating letters when I don't have a real choice like the coat racks above. Made with 1/2 inch plywood for weight. I was worried about fitting back into the pattern but I gave the letters 3 coats of craft paint and it fit just fine. That is why I used a fairly large blade. If it didn't fit I was going to use the pattern to trace the letters on in order to get the correct spacing. As you say there are different ways to skin a cat. Don amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 When I have a chance I do raised letters by cutting on the angle and pushing out. Works well for signs and see the sports plaque below. I only use free floating letters when I don't have a real choice like the coat racks above. Made with 1/2 inch plywood for weight. I was worried about fitting back into the pattern but I gave the letters 3 coats of craft paint and it fit just fine. That is why I used a fairly large blade. If it didn't fit I was going to use the pattern to trace the letters on in order to get the correct spacing. As you say there are different ways to skin a cat. Don Very well done !I looked at your charactors ,and remember my youth and tumbling etc. now bending over to tee the ball ,I find I have to raise slowly to keep from getting lite headed ,ageing is not kind ,the mind forgets what the body can no longer do! If I were rubber again I would explode !! amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kepy Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Interesting idea but how did the spelling change on the finished project? Wilson's Woodworking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Don when ever I glue letters on I use a metal ruler line them up and pick up each one and glue them done, works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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