Tdub4ever Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 I'm hoping there is a quick fix for this! For the past couple days, when I'm cutting on my 788 the wood vibrates very badly. It never used to do it, but now it is. It's not the table or the saw itself, it's the blade. There is a tremendouse amount of front and back movement now and it makes cutting difficult, especially cutting turns and corners. Has anyone else had this problem? Somehow, I think the answer to that question would be yes, lol! I'll try to post a video of the movement so you can see what I mean. Also, if you would listen to my saw, it has become rather loud the past couple days also. Thanks so much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Don , Take the blade completely out.Hold the top arm down and with your elbow hold down the top arm where the speed control and blade tension adjuster.Reach in and lift ,up and down the bottom blade holding arms .Now do the same for the top blade holding arms .There should be op slack in them. Now but the blade in and tighten as you normaly would.Reach in and try to see if theres play in the top or bottom blade holders by lifting the holders up and down.If there is investigate where the play is localized.Post your results. Tdub4ever 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Is there any chance the blade is in up side down ,just rub your finger on the blade lightly ,Easy to do ,and will clatter the wood ,even worse on a turn . Please don't ask me how I know ! Thats the first thing I would check ! Rob Roy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjR Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Well, HOW do we all know about having put a bade in up-side DOWN! We have all done THAT! Sometimes we even get in a hurry and forget to reset the tension! That makes it act up too. GrampaJim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdub4ever Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) Kevin, I did what you suggested and everything seems right. Small amount of play without blade in both arms, and no play in either arm with blade attached and tension set to 3.5. Blade is in correct. I use FD-UR #1 blades and alway make sure the indentation is at the top arm. Blade tension is always set before cutting. Couldn't get the video to upload. Edited November 11, 2014 by Tdub4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 IF, it only happens with the blade is in place ,(UNPLUG THE SAW) Put in the blade -insert a screw driver in to the manual slot on th motor,turn by hand and you should feel it grab reverse your rotation back and forth and look for whats causing the problem ! Best ,way I can think of with the info I have to work with ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustLarry Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Bearings? Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdub4ever Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 (edited) Finally got the video to upload. Hope it helps in diagnoses. Nope, video didn't work. Shoot! Edited November 11, 2014 by Tdub4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 what KIND OF BLADE ARE YOU USEING? I HAD THAT PROBLEM ONCE WHEN I WAS USEING A CHEEP BLADE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdub4ever Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Ike, I'm using FD-UR #1 from Mike Moorlach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdub4ever Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 My saw doesn't vibrate at all, it's just the wood that vibrates while cutting. I've done some testing. With the blade installed and tension at 3.5, when I turn the saw on and barely touch a piece of 3/4" wood to the teeth, there are cut marks at the top and bottom of the wood. It's like the blade isn't touching the middle of the wood. If I place the same piece of wood to the back of the blade while running, it looks like the bottom of the blade touches the wood but the top doesn't. Guess I'm going to have to give in and take it to a shop and have it checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 You use a Number 1 blade on 3/4 inch wood ?????? sounds like a really small blade for that thick of a stock to me.. If you have any 1/8 inch wood try cutting that and see what happens. but if you have any #5 of larger blades. I would try one of those on the 3/4 inch stock. Just my take on this Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdub4ever Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Thanks Dick. I've tried 1/2" wood and the shaking is worse. I use the #1 blade because I cut mostly 3/4" maple. I used to use a #3 but it burned and burnished the wood too bad. Inside cuts wouldn't take stain and all cornres were burned black. The #1 burns sometimes, but not nearly as much as the #3 did. The FD-UR #1 cuts the maple like butter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clayton717 Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 My saw had lots of movement, I kept adjusting the tensioning rod but didn't help. I tore the saw apart and found bad bearings in the back. The main arm that controls the saws movements had a bad top bearing the bushing was almost gone. I fixed that and kept having problems. Finally. Got fed uo and gave it to a friend that wanted it for parts. Now I'm saving to buy a Hawk. Wanted the 26 inch but wont fit into my shop well so I'm getting a 20 inch hawk someday, until then I'm using my old stand by dremel 1800 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 I'll just bet it's the whole blade holding mechanizims causing that.I found mine by firing up the saw and looking under the table and watch the whole complete blade mechanizm rocking and rolling around.The four screws that hold it to the yellow sides of the machine were loose.Carefull on tightening them as they strip easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 (edited) The DW788 is not designed to have the blade and table at 90 degrees front to back. Side to side yes. Betting on a bad bearing or two. Trick is finding which one. Only way to tell for sure is check them all. Sorry do not know any magic pill. Edited November 12, 2014 by NC Scroller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 (edited) I HAVE USED A #5 ON 3/4 WOOD AND HAVE HAD NO BURNING CUTTING A 90^ CUT. ( POPULAR WOOD) WITH MYDW 788 Edited November 12, 2014 by ike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Re reading the complaint it sounds a lot like my problem only my 788 was vibrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 funny thing. I have only found a burning problem on my wood when I way over use a blades life. I used a number 3 double tooth when I cut my Eiffel Tower and liked it way better than the smaller blades because the rigidity of the blade helps keep the blade from wondering. the double tooth is a little less aggressive that the skip tooth blades are so I have better control. My theory is, the bigger blade you can use the more control and stability the blade has. Everyone cuts differently and has their own blade desires. This works best for me. I don't even us a blade under #3 for puzzles,. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Have you tried the manual approach ,turning the motor by hand ,when you feel the grab ,something is catching something, lifting the wood off the table ,instead against the table ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 you might contact the DW repair shop in your area. Here in the Cincinnati area they will take it apart and check it out for $39, but there repair rates are $39 to $260, they will call you with a estimate before they work on it. at the price of new saws it could be a bargain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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