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788 woe's


Tdub4ever

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I'm hoping there is a quick fix for this! For the past couple days, when I'm cutting on my 788 the wood vibrates very badly. It never used to do it, but now it is. It's not the table or the saw itself, it's the blade. There is a tremendouse amount of front and back movement now and it makes cutting difficult, especially cutting turns and corners. Has anyone else had this problem? Somehow, I think the answer to that question would be yes, lol! I'll try to post a video of the movement so you can see what I mean. Also, if you would listen to my saw, it has become rather loud the past couple days also. Thanks so much!!

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Don , Take the blade completely out.Hold the top arm down and with your elbow hold down the top arm where the speed control and blade tension adjuster.Reach in and lift ,up and down the bottom blade holding arms .Now do the same for the top blade holding arms .There should be  op slack in them. Now but the blade in and tighten as you normaly would.Reach in and try to see if theres play in the top or bottom blade holders by lifting the holders up and down.If there is investigate where the play is localized.Post your results.

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Kevin, I did what you suggested and everything seems right. Small amount of play without blade in both arms, and no play in either arm with blade attached and tension set to 3.5. Blade is in correct. I use FD-UR #1 blades and alway make sure the indentation is at the top arm. Blade tension is always set before cutting. Couldn't get the video to upload.

Edited by Tdub4ever
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IF, it only happens with  the blade is in place ,(UNPLUG THE SAW)   Put in the blade -insert  a screw driver in to  the manual slot on th motor,turn by hand and you should feel it grab reverse your rotation back and forth and look for whats causing the problem ! Best ,way I can think of with the info I have to work with !

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My saw doesn't vibrate at all, it's just the wood that vibrates while cutting. I've done some testing. With the blade installed and tension at 3.5, when I turn the saw on and barely touch a piece of 3/4" wood to the teeth, there are cut marks at the top and bottom of the wood. It's like the blade isn't touching the middle of the wood. If I place the same piece of wood to the back of the blade while running, it looks like the bottom of the blade touches the wood but the top doesn't. Guess I'm going to have to give in and take it to a shop and have it checked.

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You use a Number 1 blade on 3/4 inch wood ??????  sounds like a really small blade for that thick of a stock to me..    If you have any 1/8 inch wood try cutting that and see what happens. but if you have any #5 of larger blades. I would try one of those on the 3/4 inch stock.

  Just my take on this

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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Thanks Dick. I've tried 1/2" wood and the shaking is worse. I use the #1 blade because I cut mostly 3/4" maple. I used to use a #3 but it burned and burnished the wood too bad. Inside cuts wouldn't take stain and all cornres were burned black. The #1 burns sometimes, but not nearly as much as the #3 did. The FD-UR #1 cuts the maple like butter!

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My saw had lots of movement, I kept adjusting the tensioning rod but didn't help. I tore the saw apart and found bad bearings in the back. The main arm that controls the saws movements had a bad top bearing the bushing was almost gone. I fixed that and kept having problems. Finally. Got fed uo and gave it to a friend that wanted it for parts.

 

Now I'm saving to buy a Hawk. Wanted the 26 inch but wont fit into my shop well so I'm getting a 20 inch hawk someday, until then I'm using my old stand by dremel 1800

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I'll just bet it's the whole blade holding mechanizims causing that.I found mine by firing up the saw and looking under the table and watch the whole complete blade mechanizm rocking and rolling around.The four screws that hold it to the yellow sides of the machine were loose.Carefull on tightening them as they strip easy.

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funny thing. I have only found a burning problem on my wood when I way over use a blades life. I used a number 3 double tooth when I cut my Eiffel Tower and liked it way better than the smaller blades because the rigidity of the blade helps keep the blade from wondering. the double tooth is a little less aggressive that the skip tooth blades are so I have better control. My theory is, the bigger blade you can use the more control and stability the blade has. Everyone cuts differently and has their own blade desires. This works best for me. I don't even us a blade under #3 for puzzles,.

 

 

Dick

heppnerguy

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you might contact the DW repair shop in your area. Here in the Cincinnati area they will take it apart and check it out for $39, but there repair rates are $39 to $260, they will call you with a estimate before they work on it. at the price of new saws it could be a bargain.

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