How long do blades last.

[Sparkey]

We see this question a lot. I know I asked when I was new. I am posting this hoping it will help someone new.  I use Flying Dutchman 3/0 new spiral blades from Mikes Workshop. I use them for everything except 3/4" hardwood. The Air Force plaque was stack cut, three pieces of 1/4" maple plywood. Then I started cutting the cross out of 3/8" cedar and took the picture when the blade broke. Hope this helps.

 

 

[scrimper]

Amazing work made even more amazing that you cut them out with spiral blades! Spiral blades IMHO are not easy to control!

[LarryEA]

Yea Rusty, you just wanted to show those two pieces.

And I would have also! Great looking and I may going to order some #3/0 spirals

and give them one more try.

That cross looks tricky. Good job.

[NC Scroller]

Scroll saw blades are meant to be a disposable item like sand paper. paper towels, finish, glue, etc.  No matter what type of blade config (spiral or flat) or brand they are all disposable.  That being said on some hardwoods you will be lucky to get 5 minutes worth of cutting time.  Other woods you get 15-20 minutes.  Yes you might get more time but you are putting extra stress and strain on the saw and yourself.  Plywood is actually hard on blades.  The glue and junk used to make up the plywood core dull blades faster then anything.

[scrimper]

Lol lately mine usually snap before they are worn out but I am using very fine blades at the moment!

[Scrolling Steve]

If i can get 15 min. of pretty steady cutting out of a blade i feel like i have done O K..

[Wilson's Woodworking]

I have a package with 10 of those spiral blades in it. I had to try them. Maybe someday I will find a use for them but I almost thru the rest of them in the trash. I couldn't follow a line to save my soul with those darn things. I will stick with my Flying Dutchman FD blades myself.

 

[amazingkevin]

It's astounding how much cutting time i get from every blade.I usually keep cutting till they break but " mikes workshop " blades don't want to break.On very thin close together cuts ,I'll use a new blade to not have problems of knawing at the wood instead of cutting it.I cut mostly 3/4" plywood and the fd-sr #12's,#7's and #5's are my main ly used blades.

[herrwood]

I must be doing something wrong, have'nt broken a blade yet. I am new at this but tend to change blades when I feel too much resistance. Still mostly just paratice cutting and find a sharp blade is easy to work with and scroll saw blade are do not cost much. I have been using Olson blades as that is what I usually use on my band saw and found them to be a good blade.

[browders]

I must be doing something wrong, have'nt broken a blade yet. I am new at this but tend to change blades when I feel too much resistance. Still mostly just paratice cutting and find a sharp blade is easy to work with and scroll saw blade are do not cost much. I have been using Olson blades as that is what I usually use on my band saw and found them to be a good blade.

I too am an Olson fan. My blades don't break, they wear out. Plywood is especially hard on them. I have never had good luck with spiral blades. I just don't have the finesse to not put some side pressure on the blade which then heads off toward the peach orchard. I think I may give them a try on some thick stock, perhaps for 3D ornaments. 

 

Jim

[Phantom Scroller]

Intricate work Rusty I would use a blade until it struggles to cut without pushing or should I say forcing and burning then out it goes. Roly

[Multifasited]

A blade only has to be as sharp as the operators ability to get the results and finish he wants ,although the extra force required and flexing of the blade will have an effect on the machiine ,the operator ,and the work piece . I personally have enough trouble controling a sharp blade ,the time (or ) life of a blade to me is it's ability to clear saw dust out of the cut in puffy dust as soon as too much flex in any direction appears ,I change blades ,bear in mind I seldom use over a three on any blade ,or over 3/4" matreial mostly 3/8"-1/2" ,all of these things make a difference .Harder ,softer ,thicker ,plywood plys ,dry. Green ,and resin content . Too many variables for simple answer ,Only simple answer is how happy you are with the cut in what ever material your attempting to cut and the finish you desire . Blades are cheaper than wood and doing over ! JMHO !!

[ike]

I have had blades last 5 minutes and others lasting several hours. you need to clear the saw dust and the speed and feed rate. after you have rn a scroll saw you can tell by the way the blade cuts , you may have to up the speed or lower it only experience will tell you this.

[heppnerguy]

I have heard several times that the rule of thumb is about 1/2 hour of cutting is the life of a blade. the smaller the blade, the smaller the teeth. But I also change mine blades as I notice that it is taking e some pressure on the blade to make my cuts. As soon as you put in a new blade, you can feel the resistance leave. Dull blades can stray fairly easily, and then the mistakes take place. Why scroll on a pieces for an hour or even several hours in some cases, just to screw it up over a 35 cent blade ?n Not worth it to me

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Southern Scroller]

When I first started I broke blades often, especially since my very first project was a cutting board in 3/4" maple.  I also tried to tell myself that the burn marks gave it that rustic look.  Duhh!  That was a long time ago.  Now I don't seem to break blades any more but can tell when I have to make greater effort and just change the blade out.  I tried spiral blades once but hated them.  Looking at your results I might have to try Mike's 3/0 spirals or just admit that you are probably the Michelangelo of scrolling and continue on my bumpy road.   Beautiful work. 

[ike]

Spiral blades give me fits. I bought some blades at a garage sale (Olson's) and it had 2 packs of spirals I tried the #7 blade and

not much luck( I hated them) The other pack are #2 spirals I will try them later.