Scrappile Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 This question is for those that use and love the Flying Dutchman 3/0 New Spiral blade. If you don't like or use spiral blades, please don't comment, it is not going to change anything. Here is my problem. I lose about, well as high as 50% of these blades just installing them. I tighten the lower end and about 50% of the time the end will bend toward the front of the saw. I have replaced the set screw, and ensured it is flush with the side of the clamp. I have put a new tip on the tightening screw just to ensure there was not a burr on it that was catching and bending the end of the blade. I have used pliers to remove the twist on the in the ends of the blades before installing them, helps a little but still I bend a high percent of them. I am at a loss. I can't just quit using these blades, they work the best for me. However at a 50% loss rate they get a little more expensive. I'm open to suggestions, except switching blades. I have recently used other blades and have not had this bending problem, but I also do not enjoy scrolling as much when using other blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Those are the blades I use the most. I use a DeWalt 788 saw. I run the screw out a little past flush. When I tighten down onto it with the thumb screw I don't seem to have many problems. I broke a couple of blades when the screw was flush or even recessed a little. Try that and see if it helps. I could be wrong but I would think trying to straighten the blade with pliers would weaken the blade. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Scrappile ,the direction of the bend toward the front of the saw ,and other things yousaid lead me to believe you Top load,andthe bend is problematic on the next load ,I bottom load ,so I can see the clamp-up each time ,I looked at my FD#3 even the flat tips arn't really straight ,I reversed the clamping like top first then bottom ,like you I think do,if the blade is not all -ALL the way back in the clamp when I tighten the bottom clamp it wants to push and bend toward the front of the saw ,the slight twist wants to push it that way .on my knees w/ a flash lite I watched it ,your right getting all the twist out helps ,BUT being spirals slight temp changes will add or subtract twist ,just like a fine spring does .Can't Say that's your problem for sure ,try top loading afew and see if you can't catch it in action ,Although it will have a tendency to go to the back not the front ,due to the rotation of the spiral twist .another reason I bottom load w/ a side lite switched and hole marked with pencil ring ,it faster for me ! Best suggestion I can Give !! amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bendita Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I think messing with your setscrew will only put your blade out of square with the table so that to me isn't a solution, What I do when installing a new blade I put my blade in the top first making sure its all the way back in the clamp then lower my arm and fasten the blade in the bottom clamp so now I know my blade is in all the way then I loosen the top and bottom load and retighten the top clamp this way everything is straight and I never have a problem. .../Hans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Scrappile ,the direction of the bend toward the front of the saw ,and other things yousaid lead me to believe you Top load,andthe bend is problematic on the next load ,I bottom load ,so I can see the clamp-up each time ,I looked at my FD#3 even the flat tips arn't really straight ,I reversed the clamping like top first then bottom ,like you I think do,if the blade is not all -ALL the way back in the clamp when I tighten the bottom clamp it wants to push and bend toward the front of the saw ,the slight twist wants to push it that way .on my knees w/ a flash lite I watched it ,your right getting all the twist out helps ,BUT being spirals slight temp changes will add or subtract twist ,just like a fine spring does .Can't Say that's your problem for sure ,try top loading afew and see if you can't catch it in action ,Although it will have a tendency to go to the back not the front ,due to the rotation of the spiral twist .another reason I bottom load w/ a side lite switched and hole marked with pencil ring ,it faster for me ! Best suggestion I can Give !! Nope, I'm a bottom feeder,,, er,, loader. Never could get the hang of feeding from the top. I think messing with your setscrew will only put your blade out of square with the table so that to me isn't a solution, What I do when installing a new blade I put my blade in the top first making sure its all the way back in the clamp then lower my arm and fasten the blade in the bottom clamp so now I know my blade is in all the way then I loosen the top and bottom load and retighten the top clamp this way everything is straight and I never have a problem. .../Hans I think that is pretty much how I do it. This has me stumped, for sure. Glad I bought a gross of these blades last time. Rusty I will give your suggestion a try see if it helps. I'd love to get this figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I assumed the bending was the problem ,you were having trouble loading to the next hole ,are you breaking blades or what? If there is a slight bend there in the bottom clamp that you never unclamp till the blade is wore out ,I don't understand the issue.If you are breaking blades at the bottom clamp ,there is something a miss in the lower clamp causing that bending &breakage . if your straightening them ,and they don't break ,doesn't seem they are hard and brittle . Best I can think of with information provided ,Would like to here what you find IT was when You find it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Spirals i need to clamp the bottom first .As i do i can see from the top of the blade how it rotates being tightend from the twist in the blade . If i do the top first i'll fight and lose the battle trying to keep the blade from walking it's self out of the thumb screw on the bottom.This is on every saw iv'e used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdub4ever Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 (edited) What kind of saw are you using? Where is the blade breaking, at the bend or in the middle? When I use the 3/0 spiral, I don't put the same amount of tension on them as I do a flat blade. When doing a portrait, I usually use only 2 blades. The first one will cut about half (depending on size of project) and then break in the middle. These blades usually bend at the bottom clamp for me too but they last for a while before they break. Edited December 5, 2014 by Tdub4ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 I have an Excalibur 21. The bend is at the end of the blade where it is clamped. Once it bends, it breaks very easily at the spot so when I apply tension it often snaps, Once it snaps it is a short blade and I toss it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Some thing is a miss in that lower Clamp ,you mentioned you changed pivot in clamp screw ,I wonder if there is wear inside the clamp screw allowing the new pivot to tilt ,I would suggest replacing w/new clamp screw comlete w/ pivot .Before doing any thing else .JMHO ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Some thing is a miss in that lower Clamp ,you mentioned you changed pivot in clamp screw ,I wonder if there is wear inside the clamp screw allowing the new pivot to tilt ,I would suggest replacing w/new clamp screw comlete w/ pivot .Before doing any thing else .JMHO ! I think you may be correct. I took the thumb screw out and noticed that the threads looked worked. I just ordered the lower entire blade clamp assembly from Seyco. I have twice had to use pliers to loosen that thumbscrew which is not a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Final suggestion ,try some ANTI_SEIZE on the threads of the new clamp screw ,just on it's threads ,not the set screw or the pivot ,I think you will be amazed at the difference that it makes ,in use and life of of the new clamp! when you are convinced do the top one TOO ! Gauling is what makes them stick ,Hard bolt threads into soft alum. threads ,builds tremendous heat through rotating friction as threads inter act to create clamping force in such a tiny area ! It is not a lube ,it acts like a heat sink keeping the two differing metals nano microns apart eliminating Gauling action of softer material ! any auto parts ,has in tiny pouches and big bottles ,sm. pouch will last you a life time for this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustLarry Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Got the anti seize a few days ago. Makes a world of difference getting the clamp screws loose. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 Yep I read about the anti-seize the other day. Just got back from the store and forgot to get some. Getting old is not fun!! Oh well, I'll get it next trip/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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