Noob question...how much of the blade end to insert?

[hippygirl]

I searched the forum (and the web), but I couldn't find an answer to this question...probably phrasing it wrong.

 

First time changing the blade on my SS (Skil brand), and it occurred to me that I'm not sure just how "deep" to set the blade. What I mean is how much of the flat ends of the blade should be inserted into the holding mechanism on both top and bottom?

 

The saw I have accepts both pin end and flat end blades, so I ordered a few dozen flat end blades in various sizes. As I'll do my first practice cuts tomorrow, I decided to go ahead and remove the pin end blade and insert one of those I just got. After I got the blade installed and pushed down the tension lever (it was VERY hard to push down), the blade pulled out of the top. I thought I might have inserted too much of the blade ends, so I re-installed it at about half the depth as the first time. Tension lever was MUCH easier to push down and it "sounds" like it's tensioned properly (nice sharp ping).

 

So...is there a "maximum" or a "minimum" depth?

 

I'm on new ground here, people...help a girl out!

[Phantom Scroller]

As far as I'm concern it really doesn't matter as long as you grip it on the grub screw some people tighten up on the end and then move the blade down to get a bit more new blade and then adjust the height to get even more but I just throw them. there cheap enough just keep the odd one to clean out the holes where needed. Merry Christmas   Roly

[sullyscroller]

I have a Skil and i put the blade in both the bottom and top just till the end is flush out the opposite side.Loosen the tension rod all the way first time then adjust , after that you will be close at each blade change. It should " ping" like a banjo string once you tighten the blade.

 

sully

[ike]

It sounds like you are having a problem that a lot of new saws have I had the same problem my old yellow I went and bought some AntiSiege from the HW store for about $4 and applied to the blade holding set screw and that solved my problem.

IKE

[Multifasited]

The fact your saw takes pin and pinless blades ,you tentioner stroke has to be able to offer wider blade spans ,the tentioner is preset automaticly , This can be an advantage and a disadvantage ,rotating rod length for the type of blade you are using,once set,  the cammed

flip over should apply the correct tention every time .  pinless saws do not need this feature ,of rotation to set blade span !  So Sully's shooting you straight . That idea of adding ANTI-SEIZE to you clamping thumb screws is great for use and protecting from clamp thumbscrew sticking ,binding and Gauling ! Just on the threads of thumbscrew ONLY!!

[amazingkevin]

As long as the blade clamps can hold the blade your fine .But on scroll reverse blades you'll want to make sure the bottom reverse teeth are contacting enough of the wood to do  it's job.

[hippygirl]

Thanks for the help...I think I got it now.

[LarryEA]

Just additional information:

Some pinless blades have an indentation indicating a suggested clamp point on the top.

I go with: "If the clamp holds the blade, it's set right."