Finishing Techniques

[TommyU]

Hi all,

 

Seeking some advice around finishing. I have a coaster set I am doing and I'd like to apply Danish oil on it first and then put a clear coat of poly after. Looking for suggestions surrounding the application process. There are a lot of internal cuts and therefore a lot of nooks and crannies. I'd like to be able to get all the internal cuts with oil that way it's not a big deal if I miss them with the poly spray. I saw one idea to soak it in a small bowl of oil wax mix but I feel like that's a lot of oil going to waste and might not dry properly. Other than applying the oil to the nooks with a small brush I'm out of ideas. Thoughts.

 

Thanks

Tom

[Scrappile]

Samething, I have read about using shallow pan to lay the piece in.  Never have tried it.  If I was going to brush it, I think I would try some pipecleaners for real small openings and maybe have some of the ear cleaners on hand that have spunge ends instead of the cotton, they might work good.

[LarryEA]

Someone will mention BLO

Basically the same thing as Danish oil is this mix

A  mixture of 50/50   BLO boiled lenseed oil and  Mineral spirits.   It  does  make the grain pop.

Mix your own, soak them in it.

Been lots of posts. You could read them by doing a search for BLO in General Scroll Sawing.

Top right of every forum is a search panel.

[LarryEA]

 BLO mix is much less costly than Danish and brings excellent results.

Search and read the posts, all the information is there

Maybe someone else will pop in and give the details..

[wombatie]

I have used Danish Oil and I have brushed it on, as soon as it is covered I then sand with a very fine wet and dry, sand a gain when the item is dry.  But then I have put 2 or 3 more coats of oil on sanding in between coats and I've gotten a lovely finish.  Sorry never put poly over the top.

 

Marg

[amazingkevin]

I just dunk my project in what ever as long as it doesn't dry to quick.I'm a get it done to quick stainer ,painter,lol

[Lucky2]

Tom, why do you wan to use danish oil, is it just to make the grain pop? What I do, especially with something like coasters is, I'll mix a 50/50 mixture of varathane and paint thinner. Then pour it into a pie plate and dip the coasters in the mix, it will fill all cavities plus it will soak deep into the wood. After the coasters have soaked for about 10-15 secs, take them out of the mixture and lay them flat on a clean cloth or paper towels to dry. After they've had a chance to dry well, I take them and give them a light sanding and a final coating of varathane. The final coating is done with unmixed varathane, you use it right out of the can. The reason I go about doing it this way is, that the mixed oil and varathane will seal the wood against ever getting water stains. 

Len

[dgman]

I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I pour the mixture in an old metal baking pan. I soak the piece in the oil for about five minutes or so, then shake off the residual oil. I wipe it down with a clean rag till all the residual oil is wiped off. I set it on an old baking rack to dry.

The oil brings out the grain and color of most hardwoods like Walnut, Red Oak, Cherry, Mahogany ect. The mineral spirits allows the oil to flow easly through all the fret holes and allows the oil to dry in about 24 hours depending on humidity.

Once the oil is dry, I topcoat with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. I don't like a real shiny finish so I use semi gloss. The spray lacquer drys fast. You can apply three coats in about an hour. If the finish has small nibs in it I sand it down with a piece of brown paper bag. It's like using 2000 grit sandpaper.

I store the oil mix in quart size glass mason jars.

[TommyU]

Thanks for all the responses everyone! Very helpful!

[Doug]

Tom

 

I give everything a bath in Natural Danish Oil, remove from the bath and place on Scott shop towels for a few minutes for interior cuts to drain, wipe with Scott shop towels, and then place on parchment paper.  I do another wipe with Scott towels in a half hour to hour to get any runs from interior draining.  8 to 12 hours later I do the same routine and then 8 to 12 hours later I go over with 0000 steel wool for final finish and then blow off with an air compressor.  I then try to see if there is anyone I can give the final product to or whether to just put in in a shoebox under my workbench..

[Travis]

I use lemon oil.  The same stuff you find in the cleaning aisle of your grocery store.  It smells nice, pops the grain, and does a nice job.  I have a little tupperware try I keep it in and dip the project in it.  I also have a foam brush I keep in the container.  Just dip, then let drip dry on a bed of nails.  If any needs to be wiped away, you can.  I think Steve Good uses a similar method.

 

An alternative method is to put it in a spray bottle and spray down your fretwork.  Wipe away any excess.  It's a little more wasteful, but you don't have a big container of oil getting in your way.

 

After is is dry, I add an acrylic spray to protect it.

[Fishman]

Wasn't sure if I should make my own new thread, or just post it here, but anyway....

 

It's about time for me to finish a project, and after lots of reading (including this thread) I'm more confused than when I started. There seem to be so many options out there for finishing, and I know some of it might just be preference. I don't expect a "perfect in every way method"....but I was hoping you could help me narrow it down on what I should use. Maybe a quick comparison.

 

- I bought Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits the other day, that's what I was planning on using. Then I read even mixed 50/50 it can never really dry and remain "sticky." I know some of you use it though, so have you ever experienced that?

 

- What about 100% Tung Oil? I hear that's good and it's even food safe in it's pure form. Seems like an all around good finish. Are there any cons to it?

 

-  Teak and Danish Oil?

 

And for a clear coat, it seems most people use Deft. That's a lacquer right? Which actually seeps into the wood for a better bond, than polyurethane?

 

Thanks in advance, and sorry if these questions seem silly.

Edited February 11, 2015 by Fishman

[dgman]

Hey Jordan, there is no such thing as a silly question.

Pure boiled linseed oil will take a week or more to dry. The mineral spirits allows the oil to dry in about 24 hours depending on the humidity. The trick is to wipe off the excess oil after soaking.

I have never used 100% pure tung oil so I can't comment on that.

I used to use Danish oil. It works just like the 50/50 mix. But in the long run it is much more expensive.

Any finish designed as a finish in North Americia is food safe once it is cured. Products not designed as a finish, like orange oil and lemon oil, which are designed as cleaners and polishes are not food safe.

I use Deft semi gloss spray lacquer because it is very easy to apply and dries fast. I can apply three coats in less than an hour. It leaves a nice satiny finish to the project. I don't like the plastic look and feel of polyurethane.

It's true there are many ways to finish a project. This method has worked for me for many years.

Edited February 11, 2015 by dgman

[Fishman]

Hey Jordan, there is no such thing as a silly question. Pure boiled linseed oil will take a week or more to dry. The mineral spirits allows the oil to dry in about 24 hours depending on the humidity. The trick is to wipe off the excess oil after soaking.

I have never used 100% pure tung oil so I can't comment on that.

I used to use Danish oil. It works just like the 50/50 mix. But in the long run it is much more expensive.

Any finish designed as a finish in North Americia is food safe once it is cured. Products not designed as a finish, like orange oil and lemon oil, which are designed as cleaners and polishes are not food safe.

I use Deft semi gloss spray lacquer because it is very easy to apply and dries fast. I can apply three coats in less than an hour. It leaves a nice satiny finish to the project. I don't like the plastic look and feel of polyurethane.

It's true there are many ways to finish a project. This method has worked for me for many years.

 

Great, thank you for the response.

 

I think I will just stick with the 50/50 boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I will also pick up a can of the Deft spray.

 

So just dip them in a container/tray of the mix, then wipe off the excess. Let it dry for 24 hours (maybe a bit longer), then give it a couple coats of the Deft. Sounds easy enough.

 

Oh, and store the left over mix in a metal paint can or glass jar. And let any rags dry layed out flat so they don't spontaneously combust. I've heard horror stories that the most dangerous thing about the oil is the used rags themselves.

Edited February 11, 2015 by Fishman

[dgman]

Sounds like you've done your research!

I store my mix in glass mason jar. Use a little mineral spirits to clean the container. I use an old baking pan.

[Fishman]

I try to do as much research on things as I can, but it's always nice to ask people directly. Thanks again for the help, I'm excited about giving this all a try!

[ike]

The rags I use are the paper Scotchrags( bought at the hardware store) then throw them in the trash for the garbage man to pich up every dweek. I don't leave them lin the shop.