heppnerguy Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Through the years that I have sat at my scroll saw, I have heard many opinions on the best way to put a pattern to the wood to cut. In the beginning I used spray clue and put the pattern directly on the wood.Then when I was all through cutting out the piece the battle started as I struggled to try and remove the paper pattern bit that were left adhered there. Then one day as I was reading an article in a scrolling magazine I ran across an article where a guy was describing the use of blue painter's tape directly on the wood and the pattern being put on top of it , leaving none of that awful residue that I hated trying to get off the wood so that i would be able to put a good finish on my piece. I tried it and liked it except sometimes, especially when I was fret cutting small, close together holes, the pattern would come loose. I thought 'It must be that the spay clue doesn't stick to the surface of the tape so well, so I tried a glue stick and it seemed to work a little better, most of the time. I kept a roll of scotch tape handy for those times, but they were still annoying. Then the thought of putting the stick glue on the tape as well as the back of the pattern. That took care of the problem better than anything I had tried so far. I read about using shelving paper to print the pattern on and then using the shelving paper backing to stick onto the wood. it was said that it would then come off fairly easily., leaving no residue. So i bought a roll of it to try. As i was getting ready to cut a piece and put it into my printer, I saw that the paper wanted to keep it's rolled up form instead of becoming flat like I wanted tit o be so I decided against that. so I stuck with the tape and glue stick for a long time and decided ' It works for me". Then today as i was cutting our my latest project I was becoming agitated with all the time I was spending getting the left over tape off my cut out piece. There were hundreds of little pieces of tape throughout each piece, to take off. I remembered that posting about spray gluing the pattern and placing it directly on the wood and when you are finished cutting it out, you take some paint thinner or mineral spirits and lightly dampen the remaining pattern and it should peel right off. What the heck, I told myself, it just might be worth a try and Shazam IT ACTUALLY WORKED PERFECTLY. I cut the next few pieces that way and now, I can not imagine ever doing my patterns any other way.. Dick heppnerguy bobscroll 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I heard of that but haven't tried it yet. I will as soon as I can get back out to the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) Like you, Dick I keep trying new ways. I also am now a fan of glueing the pattern directly to the wood, removing with mineral spirits. I on longer use any tape except to help hold stacked pieces. I also us nails on stacked pieces to hold in the center of the stacked wood. I may not always stay with this because I keep experimenting with different ways. Edited February 7, 2015 by Scrappile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
browders Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I started out gluing directly to the wood, the after learning about the blue tape began doing that. I now do both. The disadvantage I see with mineral spirits is that it takes a day to dry completely. The problems you listed with the painters tape are also annoying. I glue directly to wood especially when using plywood. I have peeled the veneer off with the blue tape when removing the pattern. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Dick, with your record of trying something else, I'll wager you aren't through X-spear-minting. I see you never tried "Glad's PressNSeal" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Congratulations ,as one old dog to another.I appreciate people who .take the time, actual interest and effort to post more than 10 word comments and inquiries w/some data related to the issue .Being I am a slow typer and poor speller , i have to spend a lot of time to get some info .across ,that I hope is understandable , A 30' x 18" $2.98 roll of vinyl shelf paper ,is my choice for several reasons ,10x's cheaper ,a very lite sand w/120 -sanding block a good dust off cut to fit top layer w/ shears ,hardest part is getting to separate from backing paper ,peel back half way -align smooth from center ,unroll rest smooth from center ,trim edges w/ razor blade if over . spray glue attach pattern ,method keeps entire pattern one pc and easy to remove ,If, you wood burn ,that pattern is reuseable and perfect for second use .lubes the blades ,here the plot thickens ,using vac dust free method ,I have no dust top or bottom ,but zero clearance bottom blade hole is not an option ,I have chip trap in line ,vac sucks small cut outs to trap ,vac has to have return air must have normal opening to get all dust ! It eliminates most of the issues you described ,plus over laps ragged ends ,non stick.wrinkles separation,I like you am always working to find what works best for you and if it helps some one else it's all gravy ,But I guess most are too busy to respond more than they do ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 The Village is full of useful information......I now have to try some of these that i have not tried before......Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Re-positional spray glue the pattern and sellotape for me never have any trouble. OVER AND OUT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Rodger Dodger Ram Jet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 I will try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted February 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Dick, with your record of trying something else, I'll wager you aren't through X-spear-minting. I see you never tried "Glad's PressNSeal" The thing that I like about doing the pattern the way I now do, is I do not need to purchase any further material, like tape (except a small amount for stack cutting ) and it seems to work with nothing more to do but spray glue and stick it on. then a very small amount of the mineral spirits or paint thinner and if almost falls off by itself.. Just seems the easiest and less hassle way to go, to me. I someday will probably try some of the other methods, but for right now, I just can not see any downfall to it..I enjoy the comments and I will keep them in the back of my mind. Hope they don't get lost in there like most of the things I try to remember Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted February 8, 2015 Report Share Posted February 8, 2015 Hey Dick, that's the way I've been doing it for years. I keep a spray bottle filled with mineral spirits, the odorless type. Just give it a light spritz, wait a few seconds and it peels right off. Then wipe it down with a a clean soft cloth like an old tee shirt. Another method I often use is using a heat gun. Heat the pattern with the heat gun or hair dryer then gently pull off the patern. If ther is glue residue on the wood, I dampen a clean cloth with mineral spirits and wipe off the residue. With either method, the mineral spirits will dry in less time then it takes to remove all those bits of tape! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamminjack Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Through the years that I have sat at my scroll saw, I have heard many opinions on the best way to put a pattern to the wood to cut. In the beginning I used spray clue and put the pattern directly on the wood.Then when I was all through cutting out the piece the battle started as I struggled to try and remove the paper pattern bit that were left adhered there. Then one day as I was reading an article in a scrolling magazine I ran across an article where a guy was describing the use of blue painter's tape directly on the wood and the pattern being put on top of it , leaving none of that awful residue that I hated trying to get off the wood so that i would be able to put a good finish on my piece. I tried it and liked it except sometimes, especially when I was fret cutting small, close together holes, the pattern would come loose. I thought 'It must be that the spay clue doesn't stick to the surface of the tape so well, so I tried a glue stick and it seemed to work a little better, most of the time. I kept a roll of scotch tape handy for those times, but they were still annoying. Then the thought of putting the stick glue on the tape as well as the back of the pattern. That took care of the problem better than anything I had tried so far. I read about using shelving paper to print the pattern on and then using the shelving paper backing to stick onto the wood. it was said that it would then come off fairly easily., leaving no residue. So i bought a roll of it to try. As i was getting ready to cut a piece and put it into my printer, I saw that the paper wanted to keep it's rolled up form instead of becoming flat like I wanted tit o be so I decided against that. so I stuck with the tape and glue stick for a long time and decided ' It works for me". Then today as i was cutting our my latest project I was becoming agitated with all the time I was spending getting the left over tape off my cut out piece. There were hundreds of little pieces of tape throughout each piece, to take off. I remembered that posting about spray gluing the pattern and placing it directly on the wood and when you are finished cutting it out, you take some paint thinner or mineral spirits and lightly dampen the remaining pattern and it should peel right off. What the heck, I told myself, it just might be worth a try and Shazam IT ACTUALLY WORKED PERFECTLY. I cut the next few pieces that way and now, I can not imagine ever doing my patterns any other way.. Dick heppnerguy my mind just had a melt down, waiting for the smoke to clear! I agree with you Dick I think? Thank you for sharing, alot of good information.... Later Jamminjack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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