Scrappile Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 I was out to dinner with my nephew and his family the other evening and was talking to his son. His son is in high school and taking metal shop. I asked him if he needed a project and if so, could he make me a bigger table for my scroll saw. I described it to him and he thought it would be simple. They have a CNC machine he loves to use. I made a pattern for him today, I added 4" on each side and 3" in the front. Anyone think of any problem with doing this? tomsteve and AlfrediaMum 2 Quote
Scrolling Steve Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Paul as long as you make the adjustments in where you sit and hand position with the extra size it should not matter...Let us know how you like it! Quote
dgman Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 The only thing I did not like about the Excalibur is the short front of the table. I think a bigger table would be great! wombatie 1 Quote
Multifasited Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 What material is he making it out of ? Quote
Scrappile Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Posted February 12, 2015 What material is he making it out of ? 1/4" steel plate I think that is what the original is made of. Any suggestions, I know very little of this stuff. Quote
dgman Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 As you know, the EX table has a coating on it, I presume to keep it from Rusting and to provide a slipery surface. You will want to keep the new table waxed for the same reasons. Quote
Scrappile Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Posted February 12, 2015 As you know, the EX table has a coating on it, I presume to keep it from Rusting and to provide a slipery surface. You will want to keep the new table waxed for the same reasons. maybe paint it with automotive paint? Quote
Lucky2 Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Paul, personally I don't think that you should paint it, you'd be better off just to treat it with WD-40 for the first coating, treat both sides and edges. After doing that you wipe off any excess, then spray the top with metal protector to prevent rust. I use a silicone type spray to clean or dress the cast iron surfaces of my table saw and bandsaw plus the drillpress and other metal surfaces. I respray them once a year, and just consider it regular maintenance like any woodworking shop would. Len Quote
wombatie Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 The only thing I did not like about the Excalibur is the short front of the table. I think a bigger table would be great! I agree Dan and if you have short arms like me and a big belly they do not work well with larger cutting on an Ex21. :oops: :lol: Marg Quote
tomsteve Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 maybe paint it with automotive paint? I'd go with just a clearcoat. You might be able to find a jobber( a place that sells auto paint) locally that can load a rattle can of the brand of clear they sell or use a rattle can clear they sell. Scuff the surface with 800 grit, clean. Normally a wax and grease remover is used but you could use 90% IPA to clean the surface. Clean it real good. Then a few coats and let dry thoroughly. Then wax it. Quote
Doug Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Paul I just responded to your question on Steve Good's forum but thought I would also respond here so the folks here could see it. I did this a few years ago adding 4 inches to the front and two inches to each side - steel plate like you are using. I use only Johnson's paste wax. I really love the larger size and you will also. Main thing for your nephew will be getting the countersink on the holes and it will be great if you can get him to round the corners so you do not have sharp edges. I attached the before and after so you and others can see it. Quote
amazingkevin Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) maybe paint it with automotive paint? Once you coat the new table for your saw with contact cement .Air can't get to the metal ,hence it can't rust./Then contact cement a piece of white Formica onto the new table top .Trim the edges ,file and your set for life with a non -rusting ,always slick surface and easy to clean . No maintanance at all .No wax's no oily wd-40 just clean formica.Mines been on the dewalt years now with zero complaints.Too thick of a table top and your not going to be able to utilize scroll reverse blades that good .As the bottom reverse teeth won't catch much if any of the wood. Edited February 12, 2015 by amazingkevin Quote
amazingkevin Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 maybe paint it with automotive paint? Once you coat the new table for your saw with contact cement .Air can't get to the metal ,hence it can't rust./Then contact cement a piece of white Formica onto the new table top .Trim the edges ,file and your set for life with a non -rusting ,always slick surface and easy to clean . No maintanance at all .No wax's no oily wd-40 just clean formica.Mines been on the dewalt years now with zero complaints. Quote
oldhudson Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Paul, personally I don't think that you should paint it, you'd be better off just to treat it with WD-40 for the first coating, treat both sides and edges. After doing that you wipe off any excess, then spray the top with metal protector to prevent rust. I use a silicone type spray to clean or dress the cast iron surfaces of my table saw and bandsaw plus the drillpress and other metal surfaces. I respray them once a year, and just consider it regular maintenance like any woodworking shop would. Len Silicone products often create issues when finishing, I have no silicone in the shop. I treat all the metal surfaces on my equipment with Johnson's Paste Wax - 4x a year. Just my 2 cents. Quote
jamminjack Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Hey Kevin, Am I understanding you correctly? Did you formica your top on the Dewalt? I never heard of that before, Are you happy with it? How is is standing up? very interesting..... Paul sounds like a good project. Please post pictures. I am sure a lot of people here will be following this project. Jamminjack Quote
Scrappile Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Posted February 22, 2015 Well, teenagers have not changed! He has now informed me he does not want to do the table top. I'm disappointed, but I can also vaguely remember what it was like being a teenager ( that was a long, loooong time ago for me!) Thinking about it I have a plan "B" that may work. I'll make it out of melamine MDF left over from my router table build. Inset the existing table just like I did the router plate on my router table. What do you think? Quote
Multifasited Posted February 22, 2015 Report Posted February 22, 2015 Best I Know ,The top of the existing table is center of the blade .raising any height ,reduces ,saw stroke on top ,changes center point of blade cutting angle ,neither may be a problem ,lowers table pivot point (cam action ) just some things to consider on plan B Quote
Scrappile Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Posted February 22, 2015 Plan B does not change the hight, thickness or anything about the existing table. Anyone ever made a router table and use a router plate to hang your router from. This is the same theory. the existing table is inset in the melanime and the scroll saw is screwed to the metal table, tomsteve 1 Quote
heppnerguy Posted February 22, 2015 Report Posted February 22, 2015 The melamine idea should work well. Similar to the idea that Kevin used but not as intrusive to the tool itself. I hope to be able to spend some time with you in your before too long and to see how this idea has worked out for you Quote
Multifasited Posted February 23, 2015 Report Posted February 23, 2015 I fear sag and warp ,may eat your lunch ! Quote
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