Fishman Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) So this is a pretty basic topic, and should be straightforward. You never know though, sometimes the easiest things can be made even easier. So I'm wondering what everyone's method for attaching their portraits to the backer is? My main wonder is really for the smaller detailed fret type work (where there isn't much surface area). Do you ignore putting glue on the smaller parts to avoid the risk having glue ooze out on the backer? Or do you just put glue on the entire back of the portrait, and just clean up any ooze between cuts. I can't help but think that just isn't feasible for some pieces, seems it would be a pain to clean all the glue between the smaller cuts. What glue do you use? Normal wood glue? Fast drying CA glue from the hobby store? Both to avoid clamping? I know this might seem silly to some, it being such a basic task; glue the two pieces together. My mind is always active though (blessing and a curse), I'm always wondering if there is another/better way to do things...and how other people do it. Edited March 27, 2015 by Fishman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
browders Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I guess my answer is "all of the above", depending on the situation. I believe, (opinion only) that normal wood glue is the best long term solution. There are situations though where CA makes more sense. I think I generally go with what appeals to me at the moment. Not always the best method. I also on occasions have supplemented my gluing with the use of a pin nailer. Used in the right spots it's virtually invisible and rarely causes a split in the wood. I don't think there is going to be one best method. However, I look forward to the other answers you get because the level of expertise out there is immense. Jim amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishman Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I guess my answer is "all of the above", depending on the situation. I believe, (opinion only) that normal wood glue is the best long term solution. There are situations though where CA makes more sense. I think I generally go with what appeals to me at the moment. Not always the best method. I also on occasions have supplemented my gluing with the use of a pin nailer. Used in the right spots it's virtually invisible and rarely causes a split in the wood. I don't think there is going to be one best method. However, I look forward to the other answers you get because the level of expertise out there is immense. Jim See, this is what I was looking for! I know there is no "one best way to do it all" but it's the first post and you already gave me an idea. I never even really thought of a pin nailer, but I could see how in some situations that would be really handy. You could maybe dab a little glue, shoot a few nails in it and be good. If you're going to have a frame overlap, you could even put the nails around the outside. Little bit of glue/dust would hide any trace of the nails in the middle too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courdorygirl Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 On pieces that I'm afraid of oozing from wood glue, like on really thin puzzle trays, I use a hot glue gun. It dries fast and clear and I can sand any ooze off and it's not real obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) I use a small 2" foam roller and tite bond wood glue ... Roll the entire back of the piece that i am attaching to the backer...clamp or press for several hrs and then use a 23ga. pin nailer in the corners.......Works for me. Ps.....The roller leaves a very thin layer of glue...no ooze. Edited March 27, 2015 by Scrolling Steve amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustLarry Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I use tite bond and elmers wood glue. Very thin layers of tiny dots help prevent squeeze out. Also have pin nailer. For clamping I often use large piece piece of 1/2 ply with old tee shirt on it, lay face of project on tee shirt, backer on top then another large piece of 1/2 ply on backer and a couple of bricks, cinder block or rail road rail pieces on top for weight. Not very successful with CA glue. Seems my fingers want to stick together more than the item I am trying to glue up. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullyscroller Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I use titebond or elmers and also a wallpaper seam roller which does just like steve said . I use black felt as my backer so i lay the piece on the felt and press, then place a heavy book on it for pressure. works great for me and i get complete coverage. sully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I use Tight Bond. it will hold forever. the main problem is if you make a mistake It is hard to remove parts without breaking. I did find a solution to the problem and that is unseeing vinegar to soften up the glue so you can remove the parts If you cant soak the parts take a foam brush and dab vinegar on the glued joints till it lousing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 I use a combination of wood glue and super glue, all Gorilla glues but I've used others also. I apply the wood glue on the wider portions and then apply the super glue on the thinner parts. I try to get some type glue on most of everything. The wood glue that oozes out, I remove after it has gelled or hardened some with a knife or toothpick. The super glue dries clear and any excess will be covered by the finish I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishman Posted March 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 (edited) To the the people that roll the glue across the entire back of your portrait, what do you do about the extra glue that oozes? Or do you just put a really light coat and don't have any extra ooze out? I use a combination of wood glue and super glue, all Gorilla glues but I've used others also. I apply the wood glue on the wider portions and then apply the super glue on the thinner parts. I try to get some type glue on most of everything. The wood glue that oozes out, I remove after it has gelled or hardened some with a knife or toothpick. The super glue dries clear and any excess will be covered by the finish I use. I think I'm going to pick up a bottle of the super glue, I've done a few projects now where something that dries fast would of been really nice. This the one you use? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-20-g-Super-Glue-78056/100661959 Edited March 27, 2015 by Fishman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 On the ones I have put a backer on, so far I have laid the picture down, face down, sprayed the back of the picture with 3M 77 adhesive and laid the backer on. I use flat black poster board. So far it has worked just fine, however a person could get spray adhesive in the cutouts. I have not noticed it so far, but I've been watching for it. I keep a jar with mineral spirits in it, some pipe cleaners close by to clean it up if needed. With poster board it would have to be cleaned before the poster board is put on, I would think. Not sure what the MS would do to poster board. One of these days I will test it. LarryEA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 I use spray glue to attach the paper to the back of my fretwork then I add a couple of staples to make sure it stays there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) I think I'm going to pick up a bottle of the super glue, I've done a few projects now where something that dries fast would of been really nice. This the one you use? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-20-g-Super-Glue-78056/100661959 Sorry, I have dialup and it takes too long to check. I got the Gorilla Super Glue (Incredibly Strong 100% Tough) Net WT. 15g (0.53 oz) Blue cap This is probably it Gorilla Super Glue Bottle, 15 g - Walmart.com www.walmart.com/ip/Gorilla-Glue...Super-Glue-15.../14971870 Buy Gorilla Super Glue Bottle, 15 g at Walmart.com. I have another type super glue in the shop... I use most any type. PS: you really don't have to hurry with the super glue but don't stop to pop a top. I like that 'Don't stop to pop a top Edited March 28, 2015 by LarryEA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) Here is the method I like for fretwork glued to a spray painted backer: Apply Elmers wood glue to a sheet of wax paper. Spread it THINLY with an old credit card. Set the fretwork on the glue/wax paper and slide it very slightly twice, R. to left & towards & closer to me. Set it on the backer & weight it down. Also, I only saw the interior cuts of the fretwork before gluing on. 24 hours later, I saw the perimeter. Cover the pattern with blue tape, turn it face down on some props and spray the edges, spray nozzle pointed down at about 45 degrees and the "back" of the backer (which is facing up.) The reason the fretwork has a new layer of tape is because the spray might try to shoot up, onto the face of the fret. jerry Edited March 28, 2015 by jerry1939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 That's it in a nut shell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 For gluing fretwork to a backer board, I like to use the thick type of CA glue. I apply the glue to the back of the fretwork before gluing the two together. I have tips that attach to the glue applicator, the tips have a needle point which is great for those small little pieces that are so delicate. Even with just the glue applicator, you can apply the glue at just the spot where you need it. I did find that sometimes when I'm trying to glue the cutting to the backer board, the cutting will want to slip or slide a little because of the glue being so slippery. What I did to remedy that problem, was I took a piece of 3/4" plywood and attached pieces of wood to the sides and ends. The pieces that I attach to the plywood, are just 1/4" strips of pine that are wide enough that when you attach it, it will be about 1/4"-3/8" above the surface of the plywood. So, when I go to apply the cutting to the backer board, all I do is just lay the backer board in place on the plywood with the face in the up direction, I then apply the glue to the cutting and just lay it in on top of the backer board. It's very easy to place the cutting in it's proper location, because those strips of wood that are higher then the 3/4" plywood hold it right where it belongs. Most of my fretwork is all done on the same size piece of wood, that is why my jig works so well. Just in case of glue squeeze out on the sides or ends, I usually will have a piece of saran wrap or waxed paper placed so that the glue can't come in contact with the wood that the jig is made out of. Once the cutting is in its place, I lay another piece of plywood on the top of the cutting with a gallon of paint on top of it used to weigh the cutting down. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewix Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I like Paul use spray adhesive and poster board. No problems so far. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I like Paul use spray adhesive and poster board. No problems so far. Mike Mike, how do you apply the spray glue so that it will hold the cutting in place for an indefinite amount of time? I don't have enough faith in the spray glue that I use, to hold anything in place other than a pattern. What brand of glue do you use, and do you only apply it to the back of the cutting? Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courdorygirl Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I have yet to do fretwork, but I use the 3M spray glue (75? 750? It was the highest number on the shelf), to set the pictures for my puzzles. The first hour or so it's fairly easy to pull it off with a wee bit of residue left that mineral spirits will take off, but let it cure for 12 or so hours and nothing I repeat nothing will make that picture come off of the wood. Well, if you soaked it with mineral spirits it would probably work but why would you do that to a good product ;-)? When I refer to my pictures I use heavy-duty glossy photo paper with a matte back, and give my wood a rough sand first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clayton717 Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I did use a roller and squeeze bottle applicator and roll on the entire back of the cutting, now I use a foam brush and dab glue on the back. I stack cut so I do them all and stack them back up with the backer glue on and put some sort of weight on top until glue dries. Sometimes I put a couple of small drops of CA glue on, just to hold it until the wood glue dries. I use tightbond 3 wood glue for everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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