jerry1939 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I am a "bottom feeder." After drilling a few holes, I take an awl and enlarge the bottom of the holes. This creates a funnel shape to put the blade in. On a large piece, if you have trouble seeing the hole, lay a CD on the saw table. It reflects A LOT of light up. jerry Malcolm161, Hawk, heppnerguy and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobscroll Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Wise advice there Jerry! We keep finding different way's to do things, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TripleJScroller Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I'll have to give these a try as I sometimes get frustrated trying to feed the blade through. Thanks, Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Take a pencil #2 rotate in hole makes it very visible .too bad there is not a directory to be able to find all these tips and cures that have been listed ,so all could refer to for refreshers for infrequent users or newbies! Clayton717, LarryEA and Tommy Johnson 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 If you have a small grinder ,taper your blades like an arrow . I've always wanted to try this but never have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotago2 Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thanks for the tips. As a new scroller I can use all the help and advise I can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamminjack Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 See that you learn something every day. I like the CD suggestion. I will have to give that a try. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 Good ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kragax Posted April 7, 2015 Report Share Posted April 7, 2015 I'll have to give these a try as I sometimes get frustrated trying to feed the blade through. Thanks, Josh. Amen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I keep a push pin by the saw, and it works for me. edward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover2 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I have heard of the CD idea but never tried it. I like the "awl" idea better and will try that on my next project. Thanks for the tips. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Last resort is a bigger drill bit if permitted ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I use an awl when I do my fret work. It really helps to make the drill holes easier assessible and I also use the awl to poke out any pieces that stick within the cut out Kevin, I like to use the smaller drill bits because it helps the bottom wood grains from tearing and breaking the wood surrounding the feet drilled hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courdorygirl Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I have a question. When I'm drilling pilot holes, the top part is always larger than the bottom hole, I'm sure due to the bit being larger on that end than the point end (I hope that made sense.) Using the smallest bit I have access to. I put a piece under so there is no tearout, and this usually works, that's not the problem. When I put the puzzle pieces back in (like my construction equipment puzzle) I can see the drill holes, and they are very hard to sand smooth. (It can be done if I work at it but then the pieces jiggle more than I like.) Should I try drilling from the bottom up? Since there is no tearaway using the block under trick, I think it would make the hole on the top smaller and the bottom part I'm feeding through a little larger. What do y'all think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 The bits I use (regular twist bits) are straight, they are not bigger at one end. Are you using a tapered bit of some sort? You can get real small bits from most places that sale blades online. Mike's Workshop, Sloan's, etc. They are around $8 a doz. courdorygirl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 When I took the class on marquetry, the instructor had a bunch of small Dremel countersinks that fit in a pin vise. Once all the holes are drilled, turn the piece over and countersink all the holes. It makes blade entry much easier. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courdorygirl Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 The bits I use (regular twist bits) are straight, they are not bigger at one end. Are you using a tapered bit of some sort? You can get real small bits from most places that sale blades online. Mike's Workshop, Sloan's, etc. They are around $8 a doz. No, they are regular bits, I asked my dad (who owns the drill). They aren't quite .25" long, though, and I'm drilling the magnetic part into my wood. I did drill from the back today and it helped a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodduck Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I also use the awl method & find it works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Most people drill too fast and actually punch out the the last part ,they think they are drilling ,very small drill bits load up and need cleared several times in at drilling of a single hole ,Hard to do ,when doing dozens and dozens of holes & holes at a set ,stacking has layers ,in the center you you can feel the layers separate as drill enters new layer , as you drill ,most are seldom tight together as we think compounding the problem ,obvious on larger pc.s in center areas away from edges and pegs. Just a fact !! Also tiny drill bits tend to wander or bow even in a drill press ,JUST another fact !! Stackers ,find this out the hard way ,even single 3/4" find grain problematic on some woods .Just more facts ,drill bits like scroll saw blade need time to clear trapped sawdust and shavings to be able to cut and drill as straight as possible ! Or you can ignore and blame what ever else is You choose ! courdorygirl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 I do like the reflection idea and will remember to try that........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Johnson Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Take a pencil #2 rotate in hole makes it very visible .too bad there is not a directory to be able to find all these tips and cures that have been listed ,so all could refer to for refreshers for infrequent users or newbies! Alot of times I'll take a marker and dot the hole! I'll have to try the pencil idea though! Thanks Tommy amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Tommy.I've wished for a scrollers tips and tricks book for a long time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.95d348aa76923344a5cab534cc1b3bc1.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.