Fishman Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) So I have a kind of odd question. Anybody have any experience with a Sharpie marker or something similar on wood? Somebody is going to sign something I made, and since wood is porous like a sponge signing right on the wood doesn't seem to work too great. I've tested it a bit and there is some bleeding. Is there something I can put on the wood, let it get signed, and then maybe even something I can put over it to protect it? I was reading that Sharpies are alcohol based and don't react well with lacquers. That I should use a water based poly? Any input is appreciated. Thank you! Edited April 11, 2015 by Fishman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 Spray clear sealer or clear anything will work for you .I spray after i sign so it stays permanent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aubec Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 Try Posca Pens, never had a problem with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 I use ball points sullyscroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
courdorygirl Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 I use paint pens, the kind you can get at wal-mart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishman Posted April 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 Thanks, but I can't choose the pen. I'm taking it somewhere to get signed. I'm just going to clear coat to fill the wood pores and hope for the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 Oh man, Good luck. Not everything writes well on clear coat... and ... and you better put a top coat on it so it stays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 It really does depend on the wood. I have signed with a wood burning tool. and I have used a paint pen and a thin end sharpie. I would want to try it on a scrap piece before I did it on a finished one Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don in brooklin on Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 I sign all my bowls and wig stands after I have finished with a Sharpie ultra fine point. The bowls are usually 2 - 3 coats Tung oil. My wig stands are wipe on poly. I recently did a crokinole board and put on the scoring line with a fine point sharpie. It was over 3 coats of spray on high gloss poly and then coated with 5 -6 more coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWSUDEKUM Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 I routinely seal my works with a hardening oil like Tung Oil. Once that has been applied the wood grain is sealed and the marker will not bleed, UNLESS you put your mark on and then apply shellac over top. The reason being is shellac uses denatured alcohol as a solvent which coincidentally so does a sharpie so whala... instant bleeding of the once crisp makers mark that you just put on.. By the way rubbing alcohol will also take off marker. So I do one of two things I seal my wood with tung oil put my makers mark on and then top coat it with lacquer OR seal with tung oil put the shellac on and THEN put my makers mark on it. DW amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multifasited Posted April 12, 2015 Report Share Posted April 12, 2015 Sounds like a electric brand would be cheaper in the long run .one time investment ,no delays or serious prep. JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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