MMathews Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 Hi all. I bought a used Minimax 2 recently and have a few questions I'm sure you all have more experience with than me. The saw I bought has the Medium blade holder (.7mm I think) on the bottom and the Quick release on top. It did not have the top bladeclamp holder assembly. I will be cutting 3/4" to 1" thick hardwood stock, mostly mahogany. I would like to know if I should get the top bladeclamp holder assembly as I have heard different stories from those who don't do much scroll sawing. The blade clamps are the old style, this saw is an 87. I won't be changing blades often so I wasn't sure if it is worth getting the standard clamps or keeping the quick change one since the info at Advanced on the Hegner options seems a little non-commital. I was also curious if anyone uses a thin sheet of plywood over the table to create a 'zero clearance' cut to help prevent splintering. Finally I would like to know what the best tooth pattern on a blade would be to cut 3/4" mahogany with cut radii of 1/2" or more. Thanks in advance for any insights Mike amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Formica is thinner for a zero clearance and a skip tooth will Hi all. I bought a used Minimax 2 recently and have a few questions I'm sure you all have more experience with than me. The saw I bought has the Medium blade holder (.7mm I think) on the bottom and the Quick release on top. It did not have the top bladeclamp holder assembly. I will be cutting 3/4" to 1" thick hardwood stock, mostly mahogany. I would like to know if I should get the top bladeclamp holder assembly as I have heard different stories from those who don't do much scroll sawing. The blade clamps are the old style, this saw is an 87. I won't be changing blades often so I wasn't sure if it is worth getting the standard clamps or keeping the quick change one since the info at Advanced on the Hegner options seems a little non-commital. I was also curious if anyone uses a thin sheet of plywood over the table to create a 'zero clearance' cut to help prevent splintering. Finally I would like to know what the best tooth pattern on a blade would be to cut 3/4" mahogany with cut radii of 1/2" or more. Thanks in advance for any insights Mike clear more wood faster for you in the mahogany Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 I know nothing about the minimax scroll saww. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 Clamps----use what you have, change if they don't work out. Zero clearance----I want to hear someone epoxied the blade hole over and then drilled zero clearance hole. Best blade for thick stock------Top of every page is a search column. Most topics (This one) has been discussed a number of times. Try a search for more answers. A # 5 blade and up..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) I use the quick clamp because I do a lot of inside cuts. Did not care for it at first, but am getting use to it now. You can get the standard clamp with a "star" nut so you do not have to use the tool on the top clamp. It works good also. My table has a inset that will accept inserts. I do not know if the older ones have that. You can buy plastic zero clearance inserts for it. I have not tried it yet. I will make my own inserts when I want them. Probably use thin Lexon or plexiglass, something like that. It has taken me a while to get use to the Hegner, but the more I use it the more I like it. I had to slow down my scroll saw speed for what I did with my other saw. I'm gradually am increasing it as I get more use to everything. My last saw I ran full speed all the time. Blade preference is personal. I'm still experimenting with different ones. I have not cut anything over 1/2" yet. I would buy several types of the size recommended for that thickness of wood and see which type fits you best. Edited May 16, 2015 by Scrappile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 I don't know anything about your saw, but if you are cutting 3/4" and 1" hardwood you WILL be changing blades often even if it is Mahogany. Thick Hardwoods will eat up any blade. The best blade type for what you are doing is a skip tooth blade like Kevin said. To help with chipping use a reverse tooth blade. They are just like a skip tooth, but the last few teeth on the bottom are pointing up. My blade recommendation for 3/4" to 1" hardwoods is Olson Reverse Tooth 5, 7 and 9, and Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse 5, 7 and 9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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