Smudger Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Made myself a basic circle cutting jig, the base clamps onto the saws table and there are small holes running parallel to the blade, each hole is 1/2" apart so each hole gives me an inch onto the circle, it starts at 2" and goes up to 18". There is a small nail that I tap into a board that is going to be my circle then locate desired hole, slide nail in and away you go. Edited May 25, 2015 by Smudger Kragax and Phantom Scroller 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducky Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) nice idea am going to give this go .i bet with my luck it come out sqaure .lol Edited May 25, 2015 by ducky Smudger and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 We love tips keep um comin' Roly Smudger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjR Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Thank You from several of us "idea borrowers"! I end using my scrollsaw and then doing the trueing up on the belt sander while letting them spin. Your idea may make my process much faster and a more accurate wheel. Edited May 25, 2015 by rjR oneleggimp and Smudger 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjR Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 A big "Thank You" from several of us "borrowers". I will be doing something similar-- though, I might beusing 1/4 inch spacing. Smudger and stu 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 Neet idea! oneleggimp and Smudger 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I made one that is similar for my band saw. But this would allow me to make a circle bigger that the 14" that my band saw allows. Thanks. Ray Smudger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Really enjoy tip like this. Thank You. Smudger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smudger Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 Works well on normal cuts but not se good on beveled, get a bit a blade wandering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Great idea. I don't do large circles, so currently have no need to make one, however, if and when I do, I would consider a minor change. As we all know, FD blades have their sharp teeth on the right, as you face it. (The kerf.) I am currently working on a fret piece with a lot of small INSIDE holes. The blades work much better cutting out an inside circle if you spin the wood counter-clockwise, putting the sharp teeth on the outside of the circle. Don't know if it matters on circles the size you are making, but if I were to make your jig, I would consider putting the center pivot on the other side. Just my 1 1/2 cents worth. jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smudger Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Great idea. I don't do large circles, so currently have no need to make one, however, if and when I do, I would consider a minor change. As we all know, FD blades have their sharp teeth on the right, as you face it. (The kerf.) I am currently working on a fret piece with a lot of small INSIDE holes. The blades work much better cutting out an inside circle if you spin the wood counter-clockwise, putting the sharp teeth on the outside of the circle.Don't know if it matters on circles the size you are making, but if I were to make your jig, I would consider putting the center pivot on the other side.Just my 1 1/2 cents worth.jerry Thank you Jerry, I didn't know that about the blades, will have to give it a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 I love ideas that come from the people here. You never know when a new one will come along.. Great idea.. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thank you Jerry, I didn't know that about the blades, will have to give it a go. Great idea. I don't do large circles, so currently have no need to make one, however, if and when I do, I would consider a minor change. As we all know, FD blades have their sharp teeth on the right, as you face it. (The kerf.) I am currently working on a fret piece with a lot of small INSIDE holes. The blades work much better cutting out an inside circle if you spin the wood counter-clockwise, putting the sharp teeth on the outside of the circle. jerry Jerry, correct me if you disagree. What I hear Jerry saying is that FD blades are 'stamped out'. This leaves one side with a sharper edge??????????? Or maybe a burred side???????????? In my thinking, this is correctable by lightly honing that side. A whet stone? When I first started cutting, I would take the time to do each new blade. After a while, I got tired of doing that. Actually, I didn't notice a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Oh, and glad you brought the circle cutting jig out. Good go, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 LarryEA, My wife (& others) call me a perfectionist. Take cutting out an inside square as an example. I want a SQUARE corner, not one where I turned the wood 90 degrees and kept going all the way around. I saw from the drill hole to just short of a line. Turn to my right (CW with the wood) and saw to the corner. Back up 3/16 to 1/4 inch, turn left, turn right and go to the next line. Repeat until done. The piece that pops put has 4 little squares removed. Go back and saw straight into the other side of the corners. Same method for any/all odd shaped pieces to remove. Here is why I know the sharp teeth are on the right side of the blade: Now when you finish out the corners, the sharp teeth on the right start you out nicely on the lines. IF you go the wrong way around, the dull side of the blade doesn't want to start on the line, but instead wants to slide along the curve. After you have tried this a few times, turning the wood CW comes automatically to you. I see no need to tamper with the blades. This explanation is probably as clear as mud. Sorry about that !! jerry . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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