OCtoolguy Posted May 28, 2015 Report Posted May 28, 2015 If you were going to do a carving cutout in 2 inch basswood, what blade would you use? I have done one already and it seemed like the #5 skip tooth blade struggled to cut it. It did make it through the whole thing but I was wondering if I should have used a #7 or #9. Anybody out there to guide this newbie? Ray Quote
lawson56 Posted May 28, 2015 Report Posted May 28, 2015 I'm not sure if this will help.I have some thick blades.I believe there 7s that I use to cut thicker wood.up to 2in.even so it is slower.They do have less teeth.Hopefully soemone else will give you better info. Quote
terrylee Posted May 28, 2015 Report Posted May 28, 2015 That what I would use #7 reverse.I do lot of oak cutting with that blade Quote
Multifasited Posted May 28, 2015 Report Posted May 28, 2015 #7 slow and steady let the saw cut and clear ! Quote
OCtoolguy Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Posted May 29, 2015 Thanks to all of you. I may have been trying to cut too fast. It just seemed like it was working hard. I was using a FD blade too. I'll try a 7 or 9 and see how it goes. Ray Scrolling Steve 1 Quote
amazingkevin Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 Have all sizes on hand ,ya never know till you try! Quote
dgman Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 I would use a FD Polar #7 or #9. The Polar blades have a slight set to the teeth and cut thick wood very well. I use them for compound cutting. WayneMahler 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Posted May 29, 2015 Thanks DGman, I don't have one of the FD Polar in that size. But I do have some Olson blades in 7 and 9. I'll give them a try. Ray Quote
Multifasited Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 The Blade is always Boss ,Your just the feeder of the wood. Choose the blade that best suits the job at hand ,spirals are no different (in that respect) ,the finer the teeth the harder to get the saw dust out of the gullet,w/o clearing the gullet you have a poor rasp your trying to cut with,MY Vac. over powers the dust of all blades allowing the blades to do their job ,I do not have overheating ,or stretching of even the tiniest blade as long as I work with the limits of the blades ability ,smooth even straight gentle pressure . I do not have to start and stop for any thing as long as I follow the rules ,THE BOSS IS ALL WAYS The BLADE . Those who use blowers, have a job on your hands clearing the kerf especially w/ fine blades ,You just have to deal with the conditions you have . IT is what it is unless you can change it! Carl OCtoolguy 1 Quote
WayneMahler Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 I would run with a #7 UR blade. Control the speed you feed and the speed of the blade. My experience has shown me not all wood is the same. May have to play a bit but patience is the name of the game. Multifasited and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
ike Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 a # 7 or #9 will work best for you. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Multifasited Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 Major lesson: I relearned AGAIN ,When you take the time to adjust everything to the EVERY BLADE's ABILITY to cut YOU WILL be much happier with all you work ! Carl ! OCtoolguy 1 Quote
heppnerguy Posted May 31, 2015 Report Posted May 31, 2015 I have some #12 blades for thicker items, but so far I have not used any of them to see how well they do . i purchased them just for this kind of thing Dick heppnerguy Quote
OCtoolguy Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Posted May 31, 2015 Thanks Dick, I wasn't even aware that there was a number 12 blade. So far, I haven't seen them for sale anywhere. But, then again, I wasn't looking for them. Ray Quote
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