nicholas Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Can someone tell me their opinion on the best way to finish or seal scrollsaw projects? I use polyeurathane spray and Watco Danish Oil. I've been questioning the use of polyeurethane since it only hardens "on" the wood versus "in" the wood like the Danish Oil. I worry that years down the road the poly will peel or crack. Is there anyone that doesn't seal the wood at all?? I use maple, walnut, ash, cherry, and very very seldom use plywood. Any input is greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_lang Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 My finishing method is this: I use stain if I am staining the piece, sometimes I leave the piece natural. After that, I use 3 coats of clear (gloss, satin, flat depending on the piece). In between the coats, I use cheese cloth and sometimes if needed very fine grain sandpaper except for the last coat, after that coat is dry for a couple of days, I only use the cheesecloth or lint free rag and wipe it down. After that is done and sit for 3 days, I take car wax watered down in a spray bottle and spray the piece, then I buff it by hand with a buffing mitt. Lastly, I take a lint free rag and give it one final wipe down. So far, I have had great luck with this method. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Nicholas, I wouldn't worry about the poly finish peeling/flaking over time if the finished piece is kept dry. I used Minwax polyurethane on our dining room table over 13 years ago and with all the punishment the table gets, there's no peeling or flaking. I agree with c_lang that sanding between coats will give a smooth finish. I sometimes wax after the poly because I like how it feels. If you have a piece that will be subject to weather, try using a spar varnish. I put six coats on a sign made of pine and six years later it still looks great. Hope you find what works for you. Everyone has a different take on things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaos Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 I agree with Chris and Nicholas,I have never had a problem with the poly flaking or cracking.As for a finish,Pine is the only wood i use a stain on,sometimes i dip it in lemon oil,I use lemon oil on Hardwoods sometimes but most of the time I will use danish oil or Formby's high gloss Tung oil,Then a few coats of spray poly. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted October 24, 2009 Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 For portraits on plywood, I just do 2 or 3 coats of spray acrylic. I like to hit it with some steel wool after the first coat to knock down any nibs (dust particles). Then I don't bother doing anything for coats 2 or 3. I really like the look and it works well for me. For other projects, sometimes I'll dip it in lemon oil. Just the stuff you buy at the grocery store to shine up your livingroom furniture. I use lemon oil because I can do it inside the house and the fumes won't bother anybody (which keeps me out of the dog house). It does a nice job on bringing out the grain, much like any other oil. Another reason I like lemon oil is the safety. Its non-toxic, and you don't have to worry about spontaneous combustion like you do with tung or boiled linseed oil. Then if I want a protective coat, I'll spray it with an acrylic spray. Anyway, that works pretty well for me. Everybody seems to have their own preference. Give 'em all a try and see what you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholas Posted October 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2009 Thanks everyone for taking the time to reply. This definitely helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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