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CUTTING COMPOUND PROJECTS.... :|}


danny

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Hell to everyone....  I have been working on Ornaments lately and at present I am

cutting LITTLE COMPOUND BIRD HOUSES.  Think the patterns are from Shiela Landry.

Anyway I have a Great likeing for the FD-UR #1 blade.  I have been using this for ALL of

these birdhouses lately.  SLOW, slow....  The block is only 1.25 inches thick.  1-1/4.

 

THE THOUGHT CAME.  Yep still doing this somtimes.  LOL  WHAT BLADE DOES

EVERYONE PREFER USING FOR THIS THICKNESS??   CUTTING STORE BOUGHT POPULAR.

 

I must say that  the lil tiny #1 blade does dull fairly fast.  Use the #3 and a lil #5, but just do not

like them as they just will not make that SHARP TURN needed.  Anyway I would LOVE to read

about all your thoughts.                              Danny  :+}

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Thanks Roly for this experience.  For some reason I just CANNOT see a more agressive blade like a #3 or #5 or NEVER

TRIED ANY BIGGER. cutting better than the UR#1.  Turns come out almost perfect.  Just a very, very Slow cutting, but

have cut 15 so far and all come out so, so Smooth.  Was just WONDERING all the others procedures and maybe pick up

a TIP OR TWO.  Hint....   Danny  :+}

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Hey Danny

 

I have cut all the bird houses, and butterfly houses from her patterns.  They were really well received.  However I used a 2/0 reverse blade.

 

I know this is even smaller than the #1 but let me tell you,  doing that fine cutting, there is nothing else like it.   Some projects you just don't need to rush on.  And the finish cut the

2/0  gives you is just wonderful... Give it a try 

 

Jack

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I only use FD UR # 5 (On VERY rare occasions I need a # 3.) Always remember that as you face the blade, the sharp teeth are on your RIGHT. When cutting all shapes (Use a circle as an example, cutting away the waste and leaving the circle, saw to the circle and turn RIGHT and rotate the wood in a CCW direction. Keep repeating until you have finished the entire cut.

 

Next, go back and finish each cut, turning the wood in a CW direction. This way when finishing up, you have the sharp (aggressive) teeth to start your finishing cuts. Use this method for any and all shapes. Note: If you are finishing the outside of a circle, start by riding the back of the blade against the first cut. Slowly rotate the wood until the teeth are where you want them, and proceed to cut. This prevents you from making a gouge in the outside of the circle.

 

I realize that this is as clear as mud, but after you tried it a few times, it will become automatic to you.

 

jerry

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Hey Danny, I have cut hundreds of the mini bird houses by Dianna Thompson in 1-1/4" hardwoods of all types including Walnut, Mahogany, Cherry, Alder and soft wood all using a FD polar #5. And a polar #3 for the birds. The polar blades have a slight set to the teeth. This helps clear out the dust from the kerf. Depending on the the hardness of the wood, the blade will last for two or three bird houses.

The #5 seems a little big, but it will handle the sharp turns in these patterns.

If you don't have the polar #5 blade, take the time to order some for the bird houses, you won't regret it!

In fact if you don't like them, I'll buy them from you!

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Boy I'm enthuse to try these and would have been  thrilled to have seen  everyones photo's of said work too.Little bird house's sounds interesting,funny i just don't remember seeing them. :) :) :)

Hey Kevin, if no one else replies sooner, I'll post some pictures on Sunday.

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