Blade Lubricant

[oneleggimp]

Woodcraft and several scroll saw pattern vendors sell a blade lubricant. Is that something worthwhile to have and use or is it like the fabled "Stretching Oil" that we used to send newbie tool and die maker apprentices to the tool crib to find. (of course there is NO SUCH THING as "stretching oil") The Blade Lubricant does exist but is it worth having? I'm as green as that newbie tool and die maker apprentice so any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

[Scrappile]

Good question.  I have never used it, I'll be anxious to read responses.  Maybe the tape that most use provides a lubricant.

[rjR]

When I bought my first scrollsaw- in 1953 the owners manual pattern book that came with it said use beeswax candle stubs--I have and did for decades!

 

For the last few years I also use a clear packing tape over the wood--put the pattern on it with permanent marker and proceed form there. I learned this trick from Frank who is --- http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/contact.htm---

 

He had nothing to gain and more to loose by telling me; as I buy blades from him! The trick works well! As a side benefit of it a light miss of the line --lifts right off with the tape! Does not show!

 

To sum up-- clear tape or old candle stubs both work well. I even use the candle stubs across the saw tables and the slide cut for the gauge on the other equipment! I even buy new candles (white) when I am out of ends.

[heppnerguy]

I have never used any lubricant either. But I find without it, the blade seems to last at least as long as the life spans of the blades as far as I can determine from reading and hearing others say. When the teeth dull, I do not see where any lubricant could increase the life from there. Perhaps the lubricants can help some, I do not know. Blades just are not expensive to use or have I ever felt that I am ready to change my procedure to find out.  I have to admit that I am slow to change what seems to be working now.. but I have also found that I was that some things I have tried after thinking I had things working best for me, so I really can not say lubricants don't work, because I have no experience with them and I think they probably do help. Are they worth the extra expense? Of that I do not think so, at this time but like I said, I am slow to change things that seem to work well for me

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[WayneMahler]

I have never used any kind of lubricant with my scoll saw. I have used it with a band saw though. I always felt that what I get with packing tape was plenty.

[GrampaJim]

I have never used any lubricant.  I wonder if it is supposed to help with burning on softer woods like Cherry?   Can't see that it would make any difference in blade life or the sharpness of the teeth. 

[Dan]

I'm in the same boat as most everyone...never used it. It seems to me that any lubricant would not last long on a blade. Packing tape is what I use on thick cuts.

[amazingkevin]

Very debatable it seems,huum? :sad:

[oneleggimp]

Thanks, Everyone! That settles it as far as I'm concerned. That $6.95 (at Wooden Teddy Bear) will be repurposed to buy a pattern for a Masonic Wall Clock. (or a couple of dozen FD Blades). I appreciate everyone's pitching in to help the new guy.

[kywoodmaster]

Bought a stick many years ago, still have most of it left. Only place that I can see any advantage is thick hard wood. It does seem to help with burning but so does a sharp blade and slow feed speed.

[Jim Finn]

Only lubricant I use with my scroll saws is paste wax on the saw table.  Helps a LOT  turning the wood in making sharp turns while cutting.

[Lucky2]

I've never used a blade lubricant on my scrollsaw blades, but, I have used it on my bandsaw blades. I just never found the need for it on the scrollsaw blades, not even the big thick blades.

Len

[ike]

I have never used it I tried tape over my patterns but can't see where that does any good. Blades are cheep $4-$6 a dozen and I usually get about an hour out of a blade., just buy different brands of blades and buy the blade that serves you best. I chose Olson's.

[GrampaJim]

Just read the discription on WTB site, say it is to "keeps cutting blades from clogging because of chips and pitch."  Dont know if that is a problem or not.  Need to look at some used blades under magnification maybe?  Now I am curious.  Any other thoughts my anyone?

[heppnerguy]

maybe if you use a pitchy wood, like  green pine.. then maybe it would help,  I try to stay away from pitchy woods, anyway,,   Not sure why I would want to even use it for any project

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Kragax]

I have to go get a bucket of spots for the spot welder.Ill check while im there and see if we have any.

[Multifasited]

The word (Pitchy wood ) should be you first clue ,althought does add character all of you with any bellows blowers ought to understand , the other problems of sight and free scents also achieved from it's use ,as well as the mess involved ,personally ,my use of contact paper under the pattern usually over a shelach sealed blank cures all issues .I avoid wood with resin load or pitch except for special apps. and turn up the vac. That's my two cent's worth and we all know what their worth !

[DWSUDEKUM]

There is a blade lube, however it has limited use.  Bees wax works well for a blade lube.  Painters tape believe it or not works well.  Try this .. get a scrap piece of cherry draw two puzzle pieces on it on one side of the scrap piece just the bare wood on the other blue painters tape cut them both.  The one with the tape will not have any scorching the one on the bare side will tend to have scorching.  Point I am making is that the painters tape works well as a lube.  The same with packing tape.

 

DW

[trailfndr]

I have never used a lubricant, but I do cover my wood with clear contact paper to which I spray glue my pattern pieces, and then always cover my pattern with good quality packing tape.  On the rare times that I didn't, my blades had to be changed more often, and I end up with more burning on certain woods (cherry for one)   I have heard for years that the packing tape works like a lubricant and help blades last longer, and in my personal opinion, this is very true.  I cut ALOT of hard woods, and everything I cut is 3/4 inch for Intarsia.  After well over 100 Intarsia pieces in just the last 2 years, I like my process and will keep using it unless I find something far better.  Pattern removes with NO residue and simply peels right off with ease.  Even on the rare occasion that I make a fretwork type pattern, the pattern and tape peels off usually in one piece, with no residue or remover fluids ever used.

[crupiea]

Never used lube, just buy more blades.