Scroll Saw sanders & files

[GrampaJim]

Been looking at files and sanding strips that mount on a SS instead of a blade.  Used to clean up lines and get rid of fuzzies, I think.  Are they worth the money and do you all use them?

Thanks,

Jim

[MetalScroll]

I am interested in these to, sound like they may be perfect for my metal work....

[Smudger]

The sanding strips won't fit on my ex16 as the hole in the table is too small

[Rob]

I got a sanding strip free with the last set of blades I ordered.  I haven't used it much as I usually just use the sanding mop I made for my drill press.  For internal cuts I clean up by hand with needle files or sandpaper wrapped around thin dowel etc.

[heppnerguy]

I use a stiff. Brush to remove my fuzzier. A hint someone posted a while back. It was a tip from his granddaughter. Fuzzier are a real pain but the good part about fuzzies is they are only there after you have cut a new pattern and now you are starting the finishing part of it.

 

Dick

Heppnerguy

[amazingkevin]

Don't forget about the torch helping rid the fuzzyies too!  I use a small stainless bbq cleaning brush to helpout too.  And then a great find was a dremil sanding mop(flap wheel) i put in my battery drill for quick removal of sand able unwanted wood particles ;) ;) ;)

[oldhudson]

I purchased a couple of packages and tried them on my Delta. I'd say they work okay if you have fairly large openings to pass the strip through and the edges are either stright or a larger radius. I don't think they work well on projects with 1/8" stock and finer detail work. Finally, unlike when you are cutting and the blades pull the stock toward the table with sanding strips it pulls both directions. Like with most things in life - it's about compromise.

[dgman]

I have never had the need to use them. Using the correct blade, saw speed and feed rate for the wood you are cutting, you shouldn't have to Sand except for the fuzzies. If you mis cut, it's easy to go back and clean up the cut with the blade. I use the right side of the blade to clean up a mis cut. The right side of most blades have a bur from the manufacturing process. This makes them somewhat sharper than tha left side, perfect for touching up a mis cut.

Using the right blade should produce a clean and smooth cut edge. On certain hardwoods like Cherry and Maple, the cut edge will even come out shiny.

What is the right blade? That's dependent on the type and thickness of the wood. I like mostly flat, skip tooth blades. I use the smallest size blade to cut the frets or inside cuts but big enough to handle the thickness of the wood. So you have to experiment with what works for you.

One of the most important factors is to be as accurate as possible. I like to split the line. That is not cut to the right or left of the line but down the center. When you go off the line, make a gradual return to the line, not an abrupt return. This will prevent those ugly bumps that need to be sanded out.

[Lucky2]

Jim, you could always make your own sander strips. All you need is cloth backed sandpaper, rip it into the width you want and sand away. Of course you can only use one side to sand with, but, sometimes it's better to have only one sided sanders. By using this type of sander strips, you're not as likely to sand the opposite side by accident.

Len

[WayneMahler]

I have inquired about these many times. I found that puttng a piece of 100 or 120 grat on my ROS does a grea job when needed. Detailing with 220 also works very well. I am curious about the sanding mops. I use a dremel for intarsia but id something would work better I don't want to have tyo re-invent the wheel.I do more fret work then intarsia, think this would be a great thread to follow and see what I can learn.

[Phantom Scroller]

Good old hands and sandpaper for me. Oh and an electric toothbrush cut off the brush and with a bit of velcro glued on buy a sanding disc and cut to size. Roly

Edited August 1, 2015 by Phantom Scroller

[ike]

I have used them.  They are a bit big for scroll work, so I don't bother any more I sand the project and them use a stiff scrubbing brush and that usually takes care of any burrs..

[GrampaJim]

We never stop learning.  Lots of good onfo and tips here.  Think I will just save my $ and buy more wood!  Thanks for all your replys!!

Jim

[macfil20]

Steve Good has a video on how to make the strip that Len is talking about. They work pretty good for me.

[RangerJay]

There are a few tools you can use.

 

If the backside is not going to be seen then a torch does the quickest job of cleaning up fuzzies - it does leave burn marks.

 

If a torch is not practical for the fuzzies then there are a few other approaches: a folded and very narrow strip of 150 or 220 grit sandpaper on your finger is about the simplest method.  A set of rifflers does a great job - particularly on those hard-to-get-at spots and a set of diamond carving burrs gently used in your dremel tool also does well. 

 

For taking out the little ridges on inside cuts the diamond carving burrs and/or small sanding drums on your Dremel really can't be beat.

 

For softening the hard edges of fretwork you might try a well broken in sanding map on an old cordless drill - mine is a ancient 7.2 volt Makita that does not have a lot of power nor speed.  I keep a very light touch with the mop and pass it over the piece in all 4 directions.  Does a great job.

 

 

Jay

[bandaideman]

I have used them but did resoret to using them by hand rather than machine. So years ago I stopped I use and sanding mop and am happy with that and normal sanding. mop not for real delicate cut piece.

[oneleggimp]

I won't bother with them in that case. That will let me buy a couple of patterns or some blades.