John10ey Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 I just cut a block of wood with an angle on one end to serve as a lifter. I lift the arm and insert the block. Is there any problem with that? The block is positioned about 1/3 of the way from the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Did it that way for years. My was just a piece of 2"x 4", nothing fancy. oneleggimp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWSUDEKUM Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Steve Good designed a wooden weightlifter, both male and female to hold up the arm plus there are a half a dozen other ways of doing it. I use a block of wood for that when I need it. Some tighten one of the pivot bolts until arm stays in place, some install that arm lifter. Each to their own. DW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 There's nothing wrong with using a block or piece of wood to hold up the arm, but for me is unnecessary. I am a top feeder. I have no reason to hold the arm up mechanically to change a blade or to feed it into the next hole. To change a blade I just feed the blade through the fret hole, then the table hole, then mount it to the top blade clamp. Then mount the blade to the bottom clamp and tension. No need to raise the arm. To change to another fret hole, release the tension, release the bottom blade clamp. With one hand raise the upper arm, move the blank into position, let gravity lower the upper arm while guiding the blade into the hole with the other hand. Then tighten the blade clamp and add tension. It take longer to explain it than to actually do it! This process work well for most fret work but may not work well when using spiral blades with very tiny holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Like dgman I am a top feed. It is one of the reasons I love my DW. I seldom need to use anything to hold the top arm but when I do I just use a piece of scrap 2x4. I have a piece of 2x4 attached to the stand with a pair of rare earth magnets so I know where it is on those rare times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 I made a lifter simulator to the click and lock, out of 1/4 plywood and it works gteat, much easier than the 2X4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Good for you IKE, That's using the ol hat rack.I've thought about doing it even though i already have something to hold the arm up that's factory made i just can't remember the name of it. Even fastening a piece of something on top of the top arm from front to beyond the back ,weighted at the end to cause the arm to stay up will work easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Scroller Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Good for you IKE, That's using the ol hat rack.I've thought about doing it even though i already have something to hold the arm up that's factory made i just can't remember the name of it. Even fastening a piece of something on top of the top arm from front to beyond the back ,weighted at the end to cause the arm to stay up will work easy enough. By any chance is it the Jim Dandy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John10ey Posted August 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 There's nothing wrong with using a block or piece of wood to hold up the arm, but for me is unnecessary. I am a top feeder. I have no reason to hold the arm up mechanically to change a blade or to feed it into the next hole. To change a blade I just feed the blade through the fret hole, then the table hole, then mount it to the top blade clamp. Then mount the blade to the bottom clamp and tension. No need to raise the arm. To change to another fret hole, release the tension, release the bottom blade clamp. With one hand raise the upper arm, move the blank into position, let gravity lower the upper arm while guiding the blade into the hole with the other hand. Then tighten the blade clamp and add tension. It take longer to explain it than to actually do it! This process work well for most fret work but may not work well when using spiral blades with very tiny holes. Hmmm... on the Dewalt dealing with the bottom clamp requires sticking my head underneath. I've been reducing the tension, loosen the top clamp and threading through the hole. Have to bend the blade somewhat but it's not been a problem. Then tighten the tension. The only time I use the block to hold up the arm is if the piece makes it awkward to thread into the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kepy Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I have never found a need for a lifter. I even bought one of the mechanical ones that is collecting dust. Inserting the blade in the bottom clamp is done by feel and soon becomes easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 The one I made is simulator to the one that Marge bought. I looked it up on the internet and said to myself I can make that. It took me about 45 minutes to make it and install it . It cost me $2d.00 for the bolts, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Hmmm... on the Dewalt dealing with the bottom clamp requires sticking my head underneath. I've been reducing the tension, loosen the top clamp and threading through the hole. Have to bend the blade somewhat but it's not been a problem. Then tighten the tension. The only time I use the block to hold up the arm is if the piece makes it awkward to thread into the hole. John there is a short learning curve but I do the bottom clamping totally by feel. Trust me. If I can do it anyone can. To make the process easier be sure to remove the bottom guard. IMHO it is a useless piece of metal anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Scroller Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) John there is a short learning curve but I do the bottom clamping totally by feel. Trust me. If I can do it anyone can. To make the process easier be sure to remove the bottom guard. IMHO it is a useless piece of metal anyway. Removing the guard? Amen! Two thumbs up! As for the short learning curve on the bottom clamp - Well, when I first got my saw I decided I was going to learn to use the bottom clamp and learn to do it quickly by feel. I was doing more fretwork then. It took a couple of sessions but before long I was one handing the release/attach/ tighten and proceed to cut without even thinking about it. Just decide you want to do it and practice. Once it becomes second nature you'll wonder why you thought it was difficult. Edited August 24, 2015 by Southern Scroller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewix Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 I use a plastic pill bottle under my arm as a lift. Also made a small hole in the top for a string that is attached to the saw so when I drop it I'm not chasing it around the shop floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrampaJim Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 I use a plastic pill bottle under my arm as a lift. Also made a small hole in the top for a string that is attached to the saw so when I drop it I'm not chasing it around the shop floor. Good idea. With the cost of prescriptions drugs these days, you need to get something more out of them!! Sorry, editorial on big phama. Getting off my soap box new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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