edward Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Has anyone tried to cut two 1/2" oak boards glued together with the scrollsaw, not sure if it will dull the blade, or mess up the finished project. Opinions on this. edward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry1939 Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 If you mean edge to edge, I do it regularly. The glue in the Baltic Birch you use is much worse. In the Midwest U.S.A we have a building center similar to Lowes called Menards. I think they are in only 3 or 4 states. I don't buy 1/4" from Lowes. Consider it junk. I buy "sanded 4 sides." I use mostly 1/4", but some 1/2. If you are carful about grain pattern when gluing, you can defy anyone to find the glue joint(s) on the finished product. With 1/4", finding stock that isn't warped is the biggest problem. If I need a piece "2 boards wide", I will saw one down through the center, flip them over & glue 1/2 pieces on each side of one full piece. Sometimes that way, you can end up with less total warp. Don't have room for a planer or a wide sander. jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 My favorite scrolling stocks are Cherry and maple. I like to edge glue 1/2" pieces together, route around the outside edges to make a nice edge. Kind of self framing. Jerry is right, the glue in plywood is worse on blades than the white wood glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted October 1, 2015 Report Share Posted October 1, 2015 Should be no problem. The material that make up plywood, especially mdf core, is much harder on blades than the tiny joint between two boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kywoodmaster Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I agree I have used glued up stock many times with no problems. I always glue up wide thins. I only have a 6" re saw capacity so instead of grinding down a 1" wide board with the planer I will re saw a 6" and glue it up when I need wide width thins. amazingkevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture. amazingkevin and Scrolling Steve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grampa Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I sometimes glue 3 or 4 pieces of harwood together and don't have any problems when scrolling it......paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I really If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture. Has anyone tried to cut two 1/2" oak boards glued together with the scrollsaw, not sure if it will dull the blade, or mess up the finished project. Opinions on this. edward If you mean edge to edge, I do it regularly. The glue in the Baltic Birch you use is much worse. In the Midwest U.S.A we have a building center similar to Lowes called Menards. I think they are in only 3 or 4 states. I don't buy 1/4" from Lowes. Consider it junk. I buy "sanded 4 sides." I use mostly 1/4", but some 1/2. If you are carful about grain pattern when gluing, you can defy anyone to find the glue joint(s) on the finished product. With 1/4", finding stock that isn't warped is the biggest problem. If I need a piece "2 boards wide", I will saw one down through the center, flip them over & glue 1/2 pieces on each side of one full piece. Sometimes that way, you can end up with less total warp. Don't have room for a planer or a wide sander.jerry My favorite scrolling stocks are Cherry and maple. I like to edge glue 1/2" pieces together, route around the outside edges to make a nice edge. Kind of self framing. Jerry is right, the glue in plywood is worse on blades than the white wood glue. Should be no problem. The material that make up plywood, especially mdf core, is much harder on blades than the tiny joint between two boards. I agree I have used glued up stock many times with no problems. I always glue up wide thins. I only have a 6" re saw capacity so instead of grinding down a 1" wide board with the planer I will re saw a 6" and glue it up when I need wide width thins. If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture. I sometimes glue 3 or 4 pieces of harwood together and don't have any problems when scrolling it......paul Now were talking,my plates really full everyday and i forget so much of what i want to do.I definitely want to make a bowl and gluing tricks are just what i need .Yhanks for posting the question of glue! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I really If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture. Has anyone tried to cut two 1/2" oak boards glued together with the scrollsaw, not sure if it will dull the blade, or mess up the finished project. Opinions on this. edward If you mean edge to edge, I do it regularly. The glue in the Baltic Birch you use is much worse. In the Midwest U.S.A we have a building center similar to Lowes called Menards. I think they are in only 3 or 4 states. I don't buy 1/4" from Lowes. Consider it junk. I buy "sanded 4 sides." I use mostly 1/4", but some 1/2. If you are carful about grain pattern when gluing, you can defy anyone to find the glue joint(s) on the finished product. With 1/4", finding stock that isn't warped is the biggest problem. If I need a piece "2 boards wide", I will saw one down through the center, flip them over & glue 1/2 pieces on each side of one full piece. Sometimes that way, you can end up with less total warp. Don't have room for a planer or a wide sander.jerry My favorite scrolling stocks are Cherry and maple. I like to edge glue 1/2" pieces together, route around the outside edges to make a nice edge. Kind of self framing. Jerry is right, the glue in plywood is worse on blades than the white wood glue. Should be no problem. The material that make up plywood, especially mdf core, is much harder on blades than the tiny joint between two boards. I agree I have used glued up stock many times with no problems. I always glue up wide thins. I only have a 6" re saw capacity so instead of grinding down a 1" wide board with the planer I will re saw a 6" and glue it up when I need wide width thins. If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture. I sometimes glue 3 or 4 pieces of harwood together and don't have any problems when scrolling it......paul Now were talking,my plates really full everyday and i forget so much of what i want to do.I definitely want to make a bowl and gluing tricks are just what i need .Yhanks for posting the question of glue! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted October 3, 2015 Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Edward, if your talking about gluing a 1/2" board onto the top of another 1/2" board to make a 1" board? Then yes you will be able to cut it with no problems, I cut 2" oak and the end cuts turn out looking as if the wood has be varnished. You could even get away with gluing three boards together, that would only make the stock 1&1/2" thick and your saw should be able to handle that thickness. And if your talking about making a board wider by edge gluing, I don't see why you would have a problem cutting it as it would only be 1/2" thick stock. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 If you are planning to glue up your own wood you really need to have a jointer to get the edges being glued flat (90 degrees). Also you need to watch the crown of the wood and alternate them so one is crowned up and the other down like in the below picture. While I've never done it, I know that you can use a router table to 'joint' stock.Here is a 3 minute YouTube how-to by Steve Ramsey. This makes perfect sense because there are a lot more folks with router tables and routers than jointers. Some router tables, like Kreg, come with shims just for this process. CMHN 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.95d348aa76923344a5cab534cc1b3bc1.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.