Nebie observations.

[bobvan]

I purchased an Excalibur 30" last December.  Along with a number of other woodworking machines with the idea that I wanted to acquire the best machines I could afford as I do not plan to have the money or inclination to buy replacements for half measure decisions.  So thinking that the Excalibur seemed to get good reviews, and the features seemed well thought out, I bought one and forgot it. With no immediate plans for it. Just wanted a good scroll saw when and if a project popped up.  So as I have done before, I saw an idea in a wood magazine and said, "I can do that".  It was an article about a young lady that put herself through college sawing puzzles for weddings.  I have a step son that is getting married on Sunday so why would I rush the project along before last Friday.  I have periodically purchased different size blades, read article and watched videos on different methods of cutting puzzles, mounting photos, etc. The last blades I purchased, two weeks ago, from two different sources were specifically called puzzle blades.  About the size of a human hair, or close to it.  So I turned on the machine for the first time and it is not what I expected. Not smooth. Lots of vibration.  Sounded like it had a rod knocking. Panic sets in. I have  a little over a week to make my first and only promised puzzle for the upcoming wedding and I have a bad machine.  I went in the house and called General in Canada.  4:oo pm E.T. and chat briefly with a fellow that gave me an idea to try and to call back Monday if it didn't work. So I rotated the motor a couple of times, and each time I moved thru a full slots worth, and removed the screws to get another full slot rotation, it helped marginally.  On Monday I called back spoke with the same gentleman who gave up and passed me onto a production manager.  I had no trouble getting him on the phone. He was in Canada not Asia.  He started to work thru some different ideas. All of which were spot on. He stayed on the phone as I did as he instructed.  We tried a number of things. most helped. We were only trying to get the vibration down to the point I could try to cut at least the one puzzle and we could solve any remaining issues after the wedding.  I'm not sure if it is fully in functional spec. for this machine but it did a darn good job on two puzzles and one of which turned out nice enough for the wedding.  It still has some vibration. having not experienced one in person, only thru internet videos I may have a fully in spec. 30" Excalibur.  Finally my observations...... The Internet does not give you enough insight to know exactly how a machine should sound and function.  They will sell you one but You CAN NOT LEAVE YOUR SCROLL SAW ON A ROLL AROUND BASE and expect it not to vibrate.  That was made clear to me by the production manager.  (I didn't see that written down anywhere when I purchased the base).  I could have missed it.      You can work thru problems over the phone if you are working with a good company. One that will spend what ever time is required to fix the problem. So far General is just such a company and Pat,  I hope I have his name correct, Magro is excellent at trouble shooting problems, some real and some perceived.  I also observed that I could not keep from breaking the puzzle blades when I tensioned them.  Having no experience and time to experiment I went to a number 2 and had some very good results.  With this brief experience into scroll sawing I learned quite a bit and know I have many questions about the best procedures for making photo jigsaw puzzles.  Sorry for the length of this post but I needed to start somewhere and give kudos to General and the fine folks that work there. That's enough smoke up their skirts,  but they were great. "so far"

     I would like to hear thoughts about vibration for an Excalibur 30" and how I can be sure I have a smooth one (in spec.) Also any Photo Jigsaw puzzle insight would be much appreciated. Tips Tricks etc.

Best

Bob V.

[Phantom Scroller]

Bob WELCOME from me. That is not an intro it's a book. I've never had this issue so can't comment needs an expert, I think someone whose had it before might know.

I would slow the speed down and see what happens and thin blades will break under pressure so don't force them and ease off on the tension see what happens. I'm sure you will get good advice from EX-30 users. There I said I coudn't comment. Roly

[NC Scroller]

Welcome Bob.  I do not have the EX but I  used one as well as a DeWalt, Dremel, and Hawk.  Yes puzzle blades are very thin as normally you do not want to have a wide kerf when making puzzles.  Blades can and do break but TYPICALLY blade breakage is cause by lack of tension and trying to force the wood into the blade and not letting the blade cut. 

[LarryEA]

Welcome Bob. Just wanted you to know an EX owner will show up shortly.  

[Scrappile]

I am a Ex  owner and a big fan.  I am sorry to read about the problem you are experiencing.  I have not experienced such a problem, so I cannot give advice.  I did want to welcome you to the forum and ask you to please keep us informed about the fix for your saw. 

[ike]

What brand of blades are you using. II If it is a Big Box store blade that may be your problem I use Olson's and some use Flying Dutchman's both are good blades. What you buy at Lowe or Home Depot are  not worth carrying home..

[hotshot]

Bob, I'm also an EX owner.  My ex has as little vibration as any saw I've ever had.  Here is my recipe for reducing vibration.

 

1.  Use the factory stand, or make sure the stand you are on is solid and heavy.  The more mass, the less vibration.  You can always add mass to the stand.

2.  Make sure the saw is solid to the stand.  Any slack between saw and stand negates the vibration reducing mass of the stand.

3.  Run the saw on a solid surface.  Concrete is best, carpet is not acceptable.

4.  Before adjusting the blade travel, make sure you adjust the arm height so that it is level with the table from front to back.  Then, don't touch that back knob again, adjust tension with front lever.

5.  After arm is completely level, loosen (not remove motor screws, turn motor on slowest setting, and slowing run motor, rotating until you find point of minimun blade travel, then re-tighten screws.  (you may have to remove screws and replace if you can not rotate enough to find the sweet spot.

 

[sermon . . . . . ]   To get the best results from your scroll saw, you need to treat it more like a musical instrument than a tool.  You wouldn't pick up a music instrument for the first time, and try to play in front of a crowd.  Same with the scroll saw.  To create quality, you need to practice and you will see your skill and quality increase over time.  With practice, you will develop a "feel" for the saw, and some of those cutting skills become second nature.  I'm pretty impressed by those that can just sit down and create great products right off the bat, but those folks are pretty rare.  Besides, you spent a small fortune on that saw, seems like a shame to relegate it to occasional projects.

 

-----------Randy

Edited October 3, 2015 by hotshot

[DWSUDEKUM]

Welcome Bob.  I do not have a EX however there have been some good advise given.  Looking forward to seeing your work.  

 

DW

[Scrolling Steve]

Welcome to the Village Bob !....I have the EX 21 and love it , little to no vibration.....it is on a factory stand and has cut like a dream since day one(when i did not have a clue what i was doing). good luck getting it squared away!

[orangeman]

I have run into vibration issues with the DeWalt788 and had to return it to the store for an exchange with no problem.

 

Now I will test the saw at the store before purchase.

 

Woodcraft sells the Ex locally and I will make sure I test the saw before bringing it home.

[Sparkey]

Welcome Bob. I don't own a EX but have cut on one. It needs to be bolted down to a solid table. You still need good tension on the small blade but keep the speed down to half or less. I would love to see pictures of the puzzle's you cut.

[bobvan]

Thanks everyone for the responses.  I will try to remember as many as I can.  Just got back from the wedding that my puzzle was used as the registry.  Every one like it and thought I came up with a great idea.  Had to admit it was not mine but a young lady in a magazine article.  My saw is on a factory stand.  I will check its connection to the stand tomorrow.  As I said after all the tutoring from the factory production manager the vibration was much reduced. It may be in complete spec.  The only way I will be sure is to see a 30 run in person.  I have mine sitting on a concrete floor.  Here is the way I was instructed to adjust my machine.  As you stated start with the big black arm parallel with the table.  The written instructions said within an 1/8" front to back.  I fussed with it until I was well within this tolerance.  Then verbal instructions were to cycle the small arms thru a full stroke top to bottom turning the nut directly inside the inspection plate.  I was to place a penny or something similar at the back of the blade just touching it with the stroke all the way up and run it all the way down.  It should start out touching, then thru the stroke it should move away from the penny and then finally move back and touch the penny at the completed stroke all the way down to its bottom position.  All this adjustment being accomplished by rotating the motor.  I did this and again after fussing I got my machine to do just that.  I've read and watched articles about this adjustment adding to or taking away from aggressiveness of cut.  I assume that the factory means this to be the most neutral setting.  Me being completely new to scrolling I do what I am told until I have time to experiment on my own.  It sounded reasonable and seemed to run pretty smooth.  I still think the mobile base removal was the best fix of all adjustments. 

     I used an Olson #2 to do my puzzle.  The puzzle blades were from bills and also flying Dutchmen.  I did not turn the saw on.  The blades popped as soon as I completely tensioned them with the white lever. The tension was too much for the tiny blades.  In all cases.  I probably tried 6 or 7 before I switched to the #2s.   I barely understand anything about this machine but thought after you achieve the horizontal adjustment (top arm parallel with the table) you do not mess with this setting and trust that the white plastic tensioning  arm would be automatically adjusted to achieve the final tension.  I now would guess that the only way to fix the breaking of puzzle blades would be to back off the adjustment knob at the back of the saw that's used to do the horizontal adjustment in the first place. I'm going to hunt down a functioning 30" EX and see if mine mimics it.  I owe the factory some videos of mine running with a nickel on it.  Now that the wedding if over I have some breathing room.  I will try to post a photo of the finished puzzle on display at the wedding.  Sorry for the book.

[LarryEA]

Thanks everyone for the responses.  Sorry for the book.

Except for missing a front and back cover... really, not a boring read. You explained well.

My only complaint is you may be a perfectionest, detailed and precise in your actions.

[hotshot]

To adjust the tension without touching the back knob (which you really don't want to do),  give the blade a little slack when you clamp it in.  If I need a little more tension for bigger blades, I press down a little on the arm while clamping in the blades.

 

The problem with messing with that back knob is that it affects blade travel, negating the tuning you just did.  I also use that same approach with the Hegner.

 

--------Randy

Edited October 5, 2015 by hotshot

[bobvan]

I do tend to be detailed.  Sometime I drive myself nuts.  Also I can spin my wheels on details.  My motto has always been:  Anything worth doing, is worth doing to excess.  Need to change that.

     Randy,   thanks for the good idea.  It sounds simple when you say it.  I knew I should keep my hands off the back knob. just needed reliable conformation.

 

Thanks all