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Making puzzles


Mabel H.

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I like the puzzle blade also, but if you don't have one, use one that has all the teeth going in the same direction.  It will help keep the image in place.   Some of the blades with reverse teeth on them will pull the image off the wood while you cut.  At least for me they have.

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I'll add my 2 cents worth. I've been cutting puzzles for over 10 years now.

 

Most of my puzzles are self standing and I use 3/4" soft maple for my colored puzzles and a variety of hardwoods, all 3/4" thick, for my natural oiled puzzles. For these puzzles the best blade I have found is the Pegas modified geometry blades #5 and 7. Those blades will cut hardwoods with ease.

 

For my Christmas card puzzles I use 1/4" Baltic Birch and the Flying Dutchman puzzle blade.

 

For my stamp puzzles I will use 1/4" Baltic Birch and jeweler blades from Sloan's.

 

Hope this helps.

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Just to clarify, there are two basic types of puzzles we scrollers cut. Jig saw puzzles, and standup puzzles. Jig saw puzzles are usually cut from a good quality 1/4" plywood like Baltic birch. Stand up puzzles are usually cut from 3/4" -1" woods. You assemble them laying down, then you can stand them up.

The puzzle blades are a 3/0 skip tooth blade and are designed for jig saw puzzles.

For stand up puzzles, I use either a #3 or a # 5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blade.post-23695-0-30750200-1444874546_thumb.jpg

Edited by dgman
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