Advice and help needed.

[JohnR48]

I have come across a supplier for 1/8" Baltic Birch ply and would like to know which blade would be most recommended.

On my last project some of the cuts were not at 90 degrees to the surface.  What was I doing wrong?

 

Thanks in advance to those who respond.

[Phantom Scroller]

John for that thickness depending on the pattern size I would use an ultra reverse no3 blade and as for the 90 deg don't go by the dial on the saw if you are not spot on in front of the line it won't be 90 deg use a protractor or a good 90 deg piece of wood or an electronic gadget on the blade as I use but you can get them cheaper. Roly

.

This is mine.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Leather-Batteries/dp/B001YJ8F8K/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1444934363&sr=8-35&keywords=digital+electronic+measure

Edited October 15, 2015 by Phantom Scroller

[fredfret]

John,

I use #1 or 2/0 for 1/8th inch BB. To check 90 deg take a piece of 3/4 or thicker wood cut a straight line in about 1/4 inch. back the blade out abd turn over the wood now see if the BACK of the blade will go in. If not your blade and table are not at 90. This is a fairly cheap and easy way to check.

Good Scrollin.

Fredfret

Wichita, Ks

[LarryEA]

In General Scroll Sawing, where you posted this topic, search for "Squaring Blade" 

Enter this in the top right where it says 'Search       This Topic '

This has been discussed a few times before

[Sparkey]

I use FD new 3/0 spiral for all my plywood cutting.

[Jason]

I use fd superior puzzle for ¼" and under.

[WayneMahler]

I use  #1 or #3 Ultra Reverse for this. Also if you have small pieces to cut, use a zero clearance block to protect the piece from breaking. A playing card taped down around the blade works wonders for this.

[KurtP]

I had the same problem once with my dewalt, the dial was on zero but when I used a protractor I found that I had to set it about 1/2 a degree to get it a 90 degrees. Now when ever I move the table I make sure to check. 

[amazingkevin]

In an emergence you can use a credit card or a business card,standing on edge and next to the blade to check for 90 degree true ness.!/8" i would use #3 or smaller blades.And run slow speed and press down to hold the wood and have great control cutting.

 

I have come across a supplier for 1/8" Baltic Birch ply and would like to know which blade would be most recommended.

On my last project some of the cuts were not at 90 degrees to the surface.  What was I doing wrong?

 

Thanks in advance to those who respond.

[JohnR48]

The table is 90 degrees to the blade.  Just some of the cuts were not 90 degrees to the top surface of the wood.

[Lucky2]

Well then John, I think that either your blade doesn't have enough tension on it, or, your forcing the cut which can cause the blade to bend. One other thing, it could be that your blade is not sharp enough also.

Len

[MrsN]

I very rarely cut a single layer of 1/8" material. I prefer a stack of 2 or 3 pieces. I most often use a #3 blade, but it really depends on what I am cutting. 

[NC Scroller]

Unless I am scrolling a picture I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades for Baltic Birch. Sizes vary from #1 to #5. Depending on the pattern I might use two or three different sizes on one project. The more delicate the area the smaller the blade. If a picture I will use # 2/0 or # 1 spirals.

 

Also I seldom cut single pieces of 1/8 BB. I like to stack at least 3 or 4 high.

[JohnR48]

Thanks Katie and Scott.  Your last sentences were what I was inquiring about mostly.

[DWSUDEKUM]

I have come across a supplier for 1/8" Baltic Birch ply and would like to know which blade would be most recommended.

On my last project some of the cuts were not at 90 degrees to the surface.  What was I doing wrong?

 

Thanks in advance to those who respond.

John,

For 1/8 inch BB I would use a #3 Ultra reverse this will help reduce tearout and the fuzzies.  As for your last couple of projects having cuts that were not 90 degrees that could be several things.  It could be that when you are cutting you are applying sideways pressures and actually bending the blade out of position.  Another reason might be that the saw itself is out of square.  That is the blade is not square to the table.  This is not hard to check periodically.  Practice will help keep those cuts square.

 

 

DW