Phoenix Puzzle

[Sycamore67]

This is a puzzle cut from a design by Judy Peterson.  It was cut from 1/2" poplar.  Because poplar is a soft and porous wood, I used a sanding sealer on it first.  The flames and the bottom were colored using a red dye -- Arti Brand from Highland Woodworking.  I had tried using various other types of dyes but these provide a brilliant color and better than any other types that I have tried.  The top part has a light wash of a pearl white color and then all the pieces were given a light coat of lacquer.  

 

I do not know if I want to work with poplar again for this type of project.  It tends to raise the grain at every step of the process which required careful sanding of the pieces so they fit and to avoid sanding to much and have too loose of a fit.  

 

[Phantom Scroller]

Very good Larry, looks great.   Roly

[newfie]

That's cool Larry thanks for sharing

[Scrolling Steve]

Wow!......Excellent fit and finish !

[orangeman]

Yes, poplar is a problem with grain raising. It is also tends to break easily because it is so soft.

 

Try 3/4" soft maple next time.

 

I use food coloring for all my puzzles and was amazed at th brillance. Check out my website; all the colored puzzles were made with food coloring and then coated with lacquer.

[penquin]

Larry, that is super.  Love the color contrast.  Looks great.

jim

penquin

[Rob]

Very nice.  I like the pattern and you did a great job.

 

Rob

[CMHN]

That came out great.    I bought a couple of her books and have the one with that pattern in it.   Its on my to do list.

[merlin]

That's wonderful friend, you done good...................

[DWSUDEKUM]

Very nicely done Larry.  Thanks for sharing this with us.

 

DW

[ike]

that is nice cutting and the colors make it.

[dgman]

Great puzzle Larry, I love it!

[oldhudson]

Nice puzzle it really pops.  I've had good luck with poplar, although I've only used it for a couple of scroll saw projects. But I'd offer a couple of suggestions. Before cutting and applying the pattern: 1. sand with 100 or 150 (whatever you normally start with); 2. clean off dust and wipe with a damp rag to raise the grain; 3. sand again; seal with a thin coat of blond shellac; 4. follow you normal steps for cutting a puzzle.

 

Whenever I can I try to finish first. When I made my kitchen cabinets I applied 3 coats of a finish to the 4' x 8' sheets of birch pw I was making the cases from and I stained and varnished the door parts before assembly.  Just a suggestion.  

[amazingkevin]

Yes, poplar is a problem with grain raising. It is also tends to break easily because it is so soft.

 

Try 3/4" soft maple next time.

 

I use food coloring for all my puzzles and was amazed at th brillance. Check out my website; all the colored puzzles were made with food coloring and then coated with lacquer.

Thanks for the tip i want to try food coloring bad!

[amazingkevin]

This is a puzzle cut from a design by Judy Peterson.  It was cut from 1/2" poplar.  Because poplar is a soft and porous wood, I used a sanding sealer on it first.  The flames and the bottom were colored using a red dye -- Arti Brand from Highland Woodworking.  I had tried using various other types of dyes but these provide a brilliant color and better than any other types that I have tried.  The top part has a light wash of a pearl white color and then all the pieces were given a light coat of lacquer.  

 

I do not know if I want to work with poplar again for this type of project.  It tends to raise the grain at every step of the process which required careful sanding of the pieces so they fit and to avoid sanding to much and have too loose of a fit.  

 

20151030_Phoenix 1 S.jpg

Beautiful work, I ate it too about the grain raising ,try oil base next time if they even have it! Good job sir!

[Sycamore67]

The reason I used poplar was that I needed a wide piece in 1/2" thickness. I will be cutting the same puzzle in 3/4" maple as a stand up puzzle next. I wanted to try cutting the tight curves on poplar before going to the maple which will be more difficult due to hardness and thickness.

Judy Peterson designs her puzzles as stand up ones. I took a class from her and it was very good and interesting. She is a great person.

 

A lot of suggestions about finishing and staining. I did not pre finish the blank because I was more worried about the edges than the surface as the edges need to be clean for the pieces to fit well. If I used an oil based finish or shellac before staining I was concerned about getting a bright red stain. I did try several of these and got the brightest red using a sanding sealer before the dye. When I cut it from maple, I will not need the sanding sealer.

 

On the subject of staining. I have been trying various types such as dyes, water colors, food dyes, oil stains and acrylic paint based. Each gives slightly different results and the choice is up to each person.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have found for me that trying various combinations of finishing schedules allows me to figure out what works best in my circumstances.

[orangeman]

The best blade I have found for cutting puzzles from hard woods is the Pegas Modified Geometry Blades; #3, #5, and #7. Beats the socks out of any other blade I have tried and I have tried most all of them.

[frankorona]

Wonderful work, is a big idea.      

[Sycamore67]

Thank you Orangeman for the suggestion. I looked those blades up and they are a reverse tooth blade with teeth set to cut a wider kerf. This would allow them to cut faster. I will have to try some. I will have to find out if the wider kerf gives a good puzzle piece fit or if it is too loose.

[bobscroll]

Very neat scrolling Larry, Thank you for showing,

Bob           

[wombatie]

That is so cool.  The red really pops.  I gave up on poplar for the same reason.  Great work Larry

 

Marg

[Carole Hutchins]

Hi. I bought 8 of these several years ago and would like to buy 8 more. Are you still making these?