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Posted

The "one-that-must-be-obeyed" requested some spiral blades to try-out.

 

No problem!  I ordered them and she received them.  Problem is, the yelling.....  She puts the blades in and tightens the blade into place, starts the cut, and BING....blades are popping out almost immediately on touching wood.  She wants to smash them so the set screw will hold better....

 

 

I need to know if taking a hammer and beating the 'spiral' on the end flat is going to make the blades 'weak' or anything?

 

 

 

 

Scott (I hate the rain....no milling for me) B

Posted

Try taking the twists out with a pair of pliers.  If you can insert one end into the blade holder you can twist the other end with pliers and lock it in place.

You can also get flat end spirals that do away with that problem.

That's all I can think of trying.

Posted

I'll know next time to get flat ends, or at least look to be sure the ends are flat.

 

 

I just whacked a spiral with a hammer on some steel I have.  Well, not so good...before the thing became 'flat ended'....it snapped.

 

 

 

 

Scott (errrrr.......order some more) B

Posted

Scott I have two small plyers that I use to untwist the last inch or there about on both ends before putting them in.  Might wish to try that.  I got them real cheaply at my local Harbor Freight they were like $3 or so.

 

DW

Posted (edited)

Quite a while back I had the same problem - and expressed the same level of frustration .....  upon advice from this forum I scrapped the spiral blades I had and purchased Flying Dutchman blades - "Spirals with Flat Ends" and also the smaller "New Spirals" - that problem is now in the distant past and Flying Dutchman spirals have become my "go to" blades for all intricate fretwork.

 

 

Jay

Edited by RangerJay
Posted

The "one-that-must-be-obeyed" requested some spiral blades to try-out.

 

No problem!  I ordered them and she received them.  Problem is, the yelling.....  She puts the blades in and tightens the blade into place, starts the cut, and BING....blades are popping out almost immediately on touching wood.  She wants to smash them so the set screw will hold better....

 

 

I need to know if taking a hammer and beating the 'spiral' on the end flat is going to make the blades 'weak' or anything?

 

 

 

 

Scott (I hate the rain....no milling for me) B

Don't forget  to sand the blade ends and the blade holders to get rid of blade preservative and finger oil you put on the blade ends handling them  Thin spirals don't thumb screw to tight as it will pierce the blade flat to nothing and break when you start up te machine.It's a fine line on tightening for tension and gripping the blades. LOW COST machines are terrible for breaking blades as they  are not tweeked for performance,They snatch the blades rather than gently .Just like a high lift cam shaft in a car ,The up and down motion is erratically,strenuous on blades ;) 

Posted

All great advise!

 

It was one of the 'starter packs' containing 12ea in three different sizes.  Not sure what size she handed me to 'flatten' but I know now....a way not to do it.

She reloaded with a #5 UR FD and went to town.  I'll order more tomorrow(personal thing about ordering on a weekend)....  And try again.

 

 

 

Scott (she was having too much fun) B

Posted (edited)

What size spiral blades did you get? The smaller spirals are easier. I have used the flat end spirals and they aren't as flat as you would think. I use the FD new 3/0 spiral for all of my fretwork. I just put them in and go. Nothing extra needs to be done.

This is how I do it.  I did get a batch that I had a porblem with, the end kept bending when I tightened the bottom clamp.  I thought it was me and guess it could have been, but I had not had that porblem before nor after that one batch of blades.

Edited by Scrappile
Posted

I found with the olson 2/0 I have to use pliers to straighten the twist or they break or damage the set screws, leading to having to sand them flat agin. You also have to make sure that when you straighten the blades that the straight edge on the top and bottom are in line or you will still have problems clamping. With the FDNS 1 the twist is not as tight and I can just put them on and go no issues.

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