Blades - what works best for you

[Out for a Scroll]

Sears had a bunch of different blades so I bought several different ones ( spiral, skip-reverse, etc. different TPI of each type too... ) to try out as I am getting back into scrolling. 

 

I downloaded and printed up a scroll saw blade chart (pdf) http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/Olson-scrollblade-chart.pdf from Olson and a "manual" from shop smith that seems to have a lot of good general info http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/scrollsaw/021003.pdf. 

 

Also bought/borrowed/downloaded a couple of books on scrolling and of plans to try out from easy to hard. 

 

There is one question that I could not find an answer for:

 

How often do you change the blade to a new one?

 

I know there are factors that will play into this like the wood's hardness/density, moisture content, thickness, amount of sawing that is needed to be done (the amount/area of wood you are removing), among other factors like what material you are using other than wood like corian, coin scrolling, etc. and there is also different people's personal preferences to be considered too. 

 

Personal preferences are an area that I tend to pay the most attention to since these answers come from actual experience.

 

So,

 

As a general rule, how often do you change the blade when you are scrolling?

 

How often vs. what material vs. the amount of detail etc....

 

Thanks so much in advance.

 

 

[Scrappile]

There was a thread recently on the blade change subject:  http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/16533-blade-changes-how-often/

 

Difficult question to answer, many varibles.  Experience is the best teacher, I would say. 

[jerry1939]

Hi,

 

YOU will know when it's time. You will see that it is cutting slower (& the blade is bending backward) but most all you will find it getting harder to keep the blade on the line. It will start to wander.

 

jerry

[scrollerpete]

Best blades for me are Flying Dutchmen, I used mostly UR from # 2 to 7. Wooden teddy bear sells them now but you still can get them through Mikes Worshops

[LarryEA]

Paul said: "Experience is the best teacher, I would say. "

There are many times, the 'blade' tells me when.  _{It breaks !!!!}

[lawson56]

Yea I agree with whats been said above,I use # reverse tooth myself.

[ike]

I prefer olson's blades#5R-#7R #9 crown.I change after each project. Most of the time the blade last thru the whole project. unless there is only a feew cuts to the project.

Edited November 7, 2015 by ike

[browders]

I too prefer Olson blades. I think Flying Dutchmen is a well made product and would probably last longer, but I just can't control them as well. Two things I generously budget for are blades and sand paper. Try a bunch of different types and find the one that suits you. If the sawing changes, change the blade.

 

Jim

[Lucky2]

Personally, I like and use the Flying Dutchman brand of blades. Mostly, I use Flying Dutchman ultra reverse blades (FDUR), they are an aggressive blade. If I want a blade that is not as aggressive, I use the Flying Dutchman (FDSR). As to when to change a blade, that is a question that cannot be answered with a reliable response. Each piece of wood cuts differently, some of it has harder spots than others, Only you can tell when you need to change a blade, you will learn from just the feel and sound of the cut when it's time to change the blade. It is all a learning experience, embrace it!

Len

[Sparkey]

I change my blade when I have to start pushing too hard to make the cut. A lot of the time the blade will break first. I mostly do fretwork. I will stack cut three pieces of 1/4 inch plywood. I also cut 3/8 hardwood. My go to blade is the FD new 3/0 spiral.

[Ray Cadmus]

I too like the FD blades.  Puzzle blades are great.  But,  when I find myself with a lot of tedious detail the Olsen blades give me  more control.  The FD blades cut too well - too aggressive...  

 

ray

[oldhudson]

As others have said already, when you have to increase the forward pressure moving the stock into the blade. Of course when they break it's a sure sign it's time to put in a new blade.

[amazingkevin]

If I'm doing very thin1/8"wood and fret work i'll want to keep sharp blades so as not to have to push hard and bust out delicate scroll work.I've gone several hours cutting on one blade in cheap 3/4- 3,4&5 ply plywood, but 11 to 13 ply plywood eats up  an hour.a blade .

 

Sears had a bunch of different blades so I bought several different ones ( spiral, skip-reverse, etc. different TPI of each type too... ) to try out as I am getting back into scrolling. 

 

I downloaded and printed up a scroll saw blade chart (pdf) http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/Olson-scrollblade-chart.pdf from Olson and a "manual" from shop smith that seems to have a lot of good general info http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/scrollsaw/021003.pdf. 

 

Also bought/borrowed/downloaded a couple of books on scrolling and of plans to try out from easy to hard. 

 

There is one question that I could not find an answer for:

 

How often do you change the blade to a new one?

 

I know there are factors that will play into this like the wood's hardness/density, moisture content, thickness, amount of sawing that is needed to be done (the amount/area of wood you are removing), among other factors like what material you are using other than wood like corian, coin scrolling, etc. and there is also different people's personal preferences to be considered too. 

 

Personal preferences are an area that I tend to pay the most attention to since these answers come from actual experience.

 

So,

 

As a general rule, how often do you change the blade when you are scrolling?

 

How often vs. what material vs. the amount of detail etc....

 

Thanks so much in advance.

[heppnerguy]

Everyone seems to have a personal blade preference. I have been going to the double tooth/ reversible blade because I have been doing some intricate and small fret cuts and these blades are a little slow cutting do to the smaller teeth on the blade hence a little easier to control. If I am not doing small fret cuts I go to a more aggressive blade. Some only use the spiral blades and do very well with them , but those who do. to use the spiral on a regular basis, usually don't. Like them at all. So in short, you have to experiment with a variety blades on a variety of woods and over time you will find the 'right blade' for you.

Good luck in your search and when it happens you will be very aware of YOUR favorite blades

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[NC Scroller]

Some prefer to drive Fords and some Chevys.  They will both get you there.  My preferred brand is Fly Dutchman but there are other quality brands.  Stay away from "store brands".  Get your blades on line and by them by the gross or 1/2 gross.  It is much cheaper in the long run.

 

Scroll saw blades are a disposable commodity like glue and paper towels.  The effective life of a blade is measured in minutes.  Replace blades like someone else is buying them for you.

[ike]

I don't even have to use sandpaper on the Olsons but the Flying Dutch won't hold with out sanding.

[Dan]

As most have said, you will know or learn when to change blades. I think in general it depends on the type of wood and thickness, but I have cut 3/4 inch cherry and gone through a lot of blades then cut some more and go through fewer blades. Find what works for you and scrolling will be more enjoyable.

[Sam777]

Newbie question.

I haven't found the section to introduce myself in.

would someone please, point me to it?

But I have a question:

I would like to cut acrylic with me Excalibur 16 which I just bought. Are there blades suited to cut acrylic? 1/8 & 1/4".

Thank you 

Sam