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Backing on intersecting word plaque


Sorcier

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I am working on several intersecting word plaques (thanks to our designer members).  Problem I am having is figuring out the best way to attach backings to them and to apply stain to them.  I have cut out the wording in the center of the project. If I adhere the backing, as I feel I should, then cut out the border, so it totally matches the border and the plaque perfectly, I am stuck trying to figure out how to stain the plaque without affecting the backing. 

If I totally cut the project, stain it, then try to attach the backing, I never get the backing totally in line with the plaque.  Also, if I take the pattern off to stain the plaque, then how to cut the border to without the pattern? 

Am I missing an easy fix?

 

Thanks,

Ward

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Hey Ward, here's how I do it, whether it's right or not, it works for me.

For intersecting word plaques, I usually paint the surface of the backer board flat black with spray paint, but stain would be fine. Flat black dries fast, I can usually apply two coats in an afternoon. By the next day the paint is dry enough to glue to the plaque. I use Aleen's Tacky Glue. This glue just about glues anything to anything! Before you start, get some toothpicks ready. Apply the glue to the back of the plaque. Make sure you have even coverage around the edges, but be careful around the letters. Clamp the two pieces together with plenty of clamps.

Clean up any squeeze out in the letters with the tooth picks. Let this dry for a couple of hours, then you can cut the perimeter.

Since I use flat black for the backer, applying an oil finish and topcoat won't make the backer to shiny.

You can find Aleen's Tacky Glue at any hobby store and Michael's craft store.

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Ward, what are you using for a backing? It depends on what your using for a backing, is it cuttable with a utility knife? If so, then just apply a backer that is a bit oversize, then trim it off to size with a utility knife. If it's not cuttable by using a utility knife, then use the scroll saw to trim it off. There is other ways to join the two pieces together, but, this is the way I do it

Len

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When buying a pattern from designers they add a dotted line for cutting a under size backer.  I use 1/8" BB.  I use a Black dye

for painting the backer Black or some even colors.  Make sure I stay at least 1/8" inside the over all size of the backer board.

I also have and always will stick to Aleen's Tacky Glue.  Like Dan mentioned....Works Great on Everything.  Danny  :+}

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I buy the large matting boards from the hobby store. It is black all the way through and won't fade. I undercut by by 1/8" and glue to the wood with Titebond (but I believe any glue will do). If I'm worried about squeeze out, I use Aleen's since it dries clear. 

 

If you are using wood as backing and want it to match the size of the word art, maybe you can cut the backer a little oversize and after it's glued up sand the edges on a belt sander or spindle sander to get everything lined up. You can always re-stain or paint the edges.

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I paint the backing, with several coats of craft colored paint, on whatever I decide on, then when dry I spray shellac on the backer before I adhere it to the wood, this way it gets even. When dry I use titebond 3 glue and clamp the two together, when dry I use shellac then put a saw tooth hanger on the back. This works for me. everyone has there own way.  edward

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I prefer to use the over lapping method because I like the looks of it better and secondly because it is easy to get aligned when gluing it up. I also keep the tooth picks handy for any glue that makes it's way to an exposed area. to make an easy and even over lap for the backer board, use a small flat washer, put your pencil in the hole of the washer and simply run the pencil and washer around the outside of your piece. Then matching the two layers together is no  longer a problem

 

Dick

heppnerguy 

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