kmmcrafts Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Over the last couple years I have been making and selling quite a few desk clocks.. I have always used countersunk screws in the base to attach to the clock portion.. Recently I did a pattern that due to detail of the clock there was no place to put screws in that wouldn't pop through into the design. I glued the thing up with I think titebond II glue.. I somewhat liked the ease of just gluing it rather than setting up my drill press 2 times just to make the counter sunk screw holes.. ( they probably have special counter sinking bits don't they? ) Anyway talking long term... which is more durable and stronger? I was never a big fan of gluing stuff.. but i have to say I was quite surprised how solid it felt.. got me to thinking that maybe the glue is stronger than the screws.. Considering I normally make my clocks out of 1/2" stock drill a hole in the center on each end and putting screws in it... it is only attached at two points.. unlike the glue attaching it the full length.. Anyway what are your thoughts on either? Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredfret Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Glue. A good glue joint is stronger than the wood it's made of. I use screws or pin/brad nails only when using thick (3/4 or more)as a perminate clamp for the glue. FredFret Wichita, Ks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Over the last couple years I have been making and selling quite a few desk clocks.. I have always used countersunk screws in the base to attach to the clock portion.. Recently I did a pattern that due to detail of the clock there was no place to put screws in that wouldn't pop through into the design. I glued the thing up with I think titebond II glue.. I somewhat liked the ease of just gluing it rather than setting up my drill press 2 times just to make the counter sunk screw holes.. ( they probably have special counter sinking bits don't they? ) Anyway talking long term... which is more durable and stronger? I was never a big fan of gluing stuff.. but i have to say I was quite surprised how solid it felt.. got me to thinking that maybe the glue is stronger than the screws.. Considering I normally make my clocks out of 1/2" stock drill a hole in the center on each end and putting screws in it... it is only attached at two points.. unlike the glue attaching it the full length.. Anyway what are your thoughts on either? Kevin Pin nails and glue is my favorite. In the beginning i just used drywall screws then i tried epoxy glue as it set up now. But use glue exclusively now.and rubber bands for clamps. Edited December 10, 2015 by amazingkevin oneleggimp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Like you, I used to use screws, but for years have been using glue only. Have never had a failure. Edited December 10, 2015 by dgman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrampaJim Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Excellent question! I have been wondering the same thing. I had heard that glue was stronger and started just using that. Now I feel better about it. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Okay thanks for the replies.. Now my next question.... Someone mentioned a "Good Glue" is stronger than screws or nails... So... what do you consider a good glue? or what is the glue of choice that you all use? I believe I used Tite Bond II.. Now I have had just one issue.. minor but non the less.. When gluing. I may on a couple occasions had the clock move from the base which got some glue on the top of the base.. I exclusively use beeswax and mineral oil mixture for my finishes and the areas that got the glue on them stood out like a sore thumb.. I hand sanded the glue off and it turned out fine.. however I do not like to re-sand a nice sanded smooth piece.. and getting up next the the joined pieces was somewhat difficult. What is your solution for this? Maybe special type of glues or, be more careful LOL.. After doing a few like this I have become more careful and had decent results.. but I sort of feel as though I am not getting enough glue on there to adhere good.. though they do seem good and solid.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredfret Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Any "wood" glue that soaks into the fibers of a well fit joint or edge will be stronger than the surrounding wood. A sloppy joint or edge with gaps will fail as then rely only on the glue. I use Titebond or Elmers carpenters glue as they are available almost anywhere. Fredfret tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 I always use titebond 111 and never had any problems, I just clamp it for several hours. Just my opinion. edward tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 I use tightbond and it holds every thing fine . I missed gluing a project last year an could not get the part apart . went on the internet and found out the only way to take it apart I h;ad to soak it in vinegar,I did this for about 21/2 hours and it came apart but the glue was still on the parts I had to scrape it off. so when possible i glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedOrZed Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 I have been using "Gorrilla Glue" recently. It is very tough stuff. You damped one side of the joint and glue the other, then bring them together and clamp if possible. It does expand and can make a mess if you are not sparing with it. Makes a good joint though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnR48 Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 I've been using glue from Lee Valley for years now with never a problem and it is stronger than the wood. Called 2002 GF. It sets up quite quickly also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 A good glue joint requires some form of clamping. Rubber bands, binder clips, tape or pin nails can all be used to give some clamping pressure. For most desk clocks, even a bad joint will probably hold up for years. There isn't a lot of stress on most desk clocks, just occasionally lifting to dust underneath. tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 GLUE - Tight Bond III Clamp if you can. glue is all you need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 It would be interesting to see the joint that brought up this question!! While I think wooden glue joints are strong I often re-enforce them with mechanical fasteners, as long as I can hide them. I use Titebond II, Titebond molding glue, Rockler CA thin and medium, Loctite epoxy, and Elmer's white all purpose glue - it depends on the application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted December 11, 2015 Report Share Posted December 11, 2015 Personally, I like to use screws, the reason I like to use screws is that it makes taking the clock apart easier. You never know when something will get broken, or need repairs. If it is glued together, there's little chance of taking it apart without causing more damage. I do use glue only in places, but, not usually when attaching a base to a top part. For gluing wood pieces together, I use Tite-Bond ll for most applications, but not all. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 I use TiteBond II & III. I prefer them over the others mostly because they worked so well never had to look for another brand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarltheScroller Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Okay thanks for the replies.. Now my next question.... Someone mentioned a "Good Glue" is stronger than screws or nails... So... what do you consider a good glue? or what is the glue of choice that you all use? I believe I used Tite Bond II.. Now I have had just one issue.. minor but non the less.. When gluing. I may on a couple occasions had the clock move from the base which got some glue on the top of the base.. I exclusively use beeswax and mineral oil mixture for my finishes and the areas that got the glue on them stood out like a sore thumb.. I hand sanded the glue off and it turned out fine.. however I do not like to re-sand a nice sanded smooth piece.. and getting up next the the joined pieces was somewhat difficult. What is your solution for this? Maybe special type of glues or, be more careful LOL.. After doing a few like this I have become more careful and had decent results.. but I sort of feel as though I am not getting enough glue on there to adhere good.. though they do seem good and solid.. Just take a damp cloth and thoroughly clean the glue off the wood before it dries. You will still need to do some light sanding to smooth the wood but it shouldn't show after finishing. I will even take a screwdriver and wipe the damp cloth right up next the the joint to get all the glue off the wood. No need for special glue...any good wood glue. Edited December 12, 2015 by EarltheScroller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted December 12, 2015 Report Share Posted December 12, 2015 Now I have had just one issue.. minor but non the less.. When gluing. I may on a couple occasions had the clock move from the base which got some glue on the top of the base.. I exclusively use beeswax and mineral oil mixture for my finishes and the areas that got the glue on them stood out like a sore thumb.. I hand sanded the glue off and it turned out fine.. however I do not like to re-sand a nice sanded smooth piece.. and getting up next the the joined pieces was somewhat difficult. What is your solution for this? I think it depends on the project... I know lots of folks use a damp cloth to wipe off glue when it weeps out of joints but I no longer do that. It raises the grain and certainly causes additional sanding. (Although I normally sand before and after assembly.) Because polyurethane glues are water soluble, wiping with a damp rag can allow moisture to penetrate and weaken the glue joint. Finally, many times it's difficult wipe down joints with all the clamps in place. Now I wait about 1/2 hours, take off the clamps and use a paint scraper and dull chisels to remove glue while it's 'dry' but still soft. Another approach I use is to apply painters tape on surfaces that I know will get squeeze-out. Lot's of work but there's no extra sanding either. As they used to say on Laugh-in, "different strokes for different folks". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 I use Hot Stuff glue with the spray accelerate. It's the same glue JGR uses to do her intarsia. With the accelerate you have to be quick to get it right but it holds very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted December 15, 2015 Report Share Posted December 15, 2015 Some people doubt the durability and strength of a glue joint. I submit that this project shows how strong, durable and long lasting today's glues are. I joined two 1/2' poplar boards to make this trivet, I think it's from 1986. This trivet is in daily use and has be hand washed dozens of times. It's stained with Minwax, there is no top-coat of any kind. There are two pics, one from each side. The joint is much more noticeable on the one side, no doubt from some mistake on my part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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