Another "How do I finish a Trivet" question

[jerry1939]

Hi All,

 

Just finished my second trivet. Soaked it in 50/50 mineral oil/BLO per a few of the suggestions that were posted here in the past:

 

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/17141-trivet-question/

 

Looks OK, but dull and drab. IF it is to be used as a trivet (as opposed to a decoration), is there a "shine" I can apply? Currently I finish EVERYTHING with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel, sprayed from 4 directions "about 10 minutes apart." Can I use that, or what other possibilities? My concern is, will heat and a shiny finish fight with each other?

 

Thanks a Bunch,

 

jerry

 

Note, probably next week I will print instruction for making a trivet with Inscape.

[LarryEA]

I'm guessing that depending on the absorbtion of the wood, put a couple to three coats of BLO on.

Then: 

          Use paste wax, a thin coat rubbed over the oil and then buffed out will add another

            layer of protection and leave a nice soft sheen. 

[Kepy]

I usually finish mine by buffing with a brown paper bag.

[oldhudson]

I think it depends on the stock and design.

 

The few trivets I've made I strained and didn't put any top coat on at all, they are in daily use in our dinning room. If you want a lot of bling - make a test piece, put the finishes you want on and then put it into use for a few weeks. You'll find out. 

 

On your enamel there must be an 800 number, call their tech support and ask them.

[amazingkevin]

Hi All,

 

Just finished my second trivet. Soaked it in 50/50 mineral oil/BLO per a few of the suggestions that were posted here in the past:

 

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/17141-trivet-question/

 

Looks OK, but dull and drab. IF it is to be used as a trivet (as opposed to a decoration), is there a "shine" I can apply? Currently I finish EVERYTHING with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel, sprayed from 4 directions "about 10 minutes apart." Can I use that, or what other possibilities? My concern is, will heat and a shiny finish fight with each other?

 

Thanks a Bunch,

 

jerry

 

Note, probably next week I will print instruction for making a trivet with Inscape.

I always wondered about heat on them too.Let us know your choices you like!

[stoney]

I would not recommend using any type of enamel finish on a trivet you actually intend to use.   If you want a shiny finish I would suggest using a material such Corian or other brands of counter top material.   I think penetrating types of oil finishes work good for trivets but will not result in a glossy finish that you seem to desire.    

[heppnerguy]

Stoney,  you just raddled my chain. I like the idea of Corian for a trivet but I have never cut it before.. What kind of blade do you use to cut Corian and where can one purchase some for that purpose?

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[LarryEA]

Stoney,  you just raddled my chain. What kind of blade do you use to cut Corian 

 

Hey thanks Dick. Just learned a new word but I don't think you used it right. 

 

I would not recommend using any type of enamel finish on a trivet you actually intend to use.   If you want a shiny finish I would suggest using a material such Corian or other brands of counter top material.   

 

I agree with Dick, that stuff would be tooooooooo tough for  scroll sawyers IMHO

 

So back to a finish: Just search for "Dining Room Table finish"

 

PS:  Heat will ruin a wood trivet... bow, warp, etc.

[heppnerguy]

Hey thanks Dick. Just learned a new word but I don't think you used it right. 

 

 

I agree with Dick, that stuff would be tooooooooo tough for  scroll sawyers IMHO

 

So back to a finish: Just search for "Dining Room Table finish"

 

PS:  Heat will ruin a wood trivet... bow, warp, etc.

 

Oh you are right, LarryEA ,  I made it up just for you .....I think my "T" key wasn't working yesterday.. I see it is now.....

 

Dick

heppnerguy

Edited December 14, 2015 by heppnerguy

[amazingkevin]

Hi All,

 

Just finished my second trivet. Soaked it in 50/50 mineral oil/BLO per a few of the suggestions that were posted here in the past:

 

http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/17141-trivet-question/

 

Looks OK, but dull and drab. IF it is to be used as a trivet (as opposed to a decoration), is there a "shine" I can apply? Currently I finish EVERYTHING with Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel, sprayed from 4 directions "about 10 minutes apart." Can I use that, or what other possibilities? My concern is, will heat and a shiny finish fight with each other?

 

Thanks a Bunch,

 

jerry

 

Note, probably next week I will print instruction for making a trivet with Inscape.

Thanks for all the info that came in in this post!

[oldhudson]

Hey thanks Dick. Just learned a new word but I don't think you used it right. 

 

 

I agree with Dick, that stuff would be tooooooooo tough for  scroll sawyers IMHO

 

So back to a finish: Just search for "Dining Room Table finish"

 

PS:  Heat will ruin a wood trivet... bow, warp, etc.

 

I can't agree that heat will make a wood trivet  bow, cup, twist etc.  Here are pics of two I made about 1986 that have been in daily use. The round one was actually glued from from two pieces of stock. The stock for both was 1/2" poplar. They've been washed dozens of times. They are as flat as the day I made them. I stained them with an oil base stain (Minwax). No top-coat of any kind was used.

Edited December 15, 2015 by oldhudson

[jerry1939]

The ONLY thing I ever use for scrolled items & painted woodcarvings is Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel.  I called them and they told my that it is only good up to 200 degrees.  Above that, it will start to bubble.

 

Will not try any type of wax.  My Sweet Wife, who is an excellent cook felt that wax might melt and stick to the bottom of the (pot)(bowl).

 

Will stay with 50/50 mineral oil & BLO.  Will give them another bath in a month, let them dry thoroughly & rub with a paper bag. Currently the still have a very noticeable linseed oil smell.  Am in no hurry to give them out.

 

jerry

[LarryEA]

I can't agree that heat will make a wood trivet  bow, cup, twist etc.  Here are pics of two I made about 1986 that have been in daily use. The round one was actually glued from from two pieces of stock. The stock for both was 1/2" poplar. They've been washed dozens of times. They are as flat as the day I made them. I stained them with an oil base stain (Minwax). No top-coat of any kind was used. trivet 438.jpgtrivet 439.jpgtrivet 437.jpgtrivet 440.jpg

That's good news. I'll try poplar.

I made one for the coffee pot out of ??? 1/2" solid wood. Made coffee and had a wobbly pot.

Tried 3/4 solid birch, still the heat caused it to bow.

[stoney]

Stoney,  you just raddled my chain. I like the idea of Corian for a trivet but I have never cut it before.. What kind of blade do you use to cut Corian and where can one purchase some for that purpose?

 

Dick

heppnerguy

I have cut quite a few trivets from Corian  with great success.   I use Flying Dutchman polar blades, primarily #5's    I cover the pattern with packing tape and dial down the blade speed.   To anyone that would like to try it I would recommend practicing on a scrap area until you have determined the right combination of blade speed and feed rate.  

[oldhudson]

That's good news. I'll try poplar.

I made one for the coffee pot out of ??? 1/2" solid wood. Made coffee and had a wobbly pot.

Tried 3/4 solid birch, still the heat caused it to bow.

 

It would be interesting to see pics of those. It seems to me the key factors with wood twisting, cupping, etc. are: 1) moisture content and 2) grain.

 

So if the wood is not dry of if you recently cut it from another board, hence exposing a new surface. It can cause the stock to move. Or if the stock has been in a garage in humid are and you bring it in to an AC space without letting it adjust to changes in RH you can get movement.

 

And of course if the grain isn't relatively straight all those internal forces start to work and who knows what will happen.

 

But I don't think heat is the problem. My last major problem with with twist was with the bathroom vanity project I posted about a couple times here.(search under vanity). One of the door twisted. I didn't re-do the door but the right hand door stock out nearly 1/4" at the bottom relative to the left hand door. I followed good wood working rules but it  is still - yech. Fortunately it's a really dark stain and isn't noticeable to anyone but me. 

[kywoodmaster]

I can't agree that heat will make a wood trivet  bow, cup, twist etc.  Here are pics of two I made about 1986 that have been in daily use. The round one was actually glued from from two pieces of stock. The stock for both was 1/2" poplar. They've been washed dozens of times. They are as flat as the day I made them. I stained them with an oil base stain (Minwax). No top-coat of any kind was used. trivet 438.jpgtrivet 439.jpgtrivet 437.jpgtrivet 440.jpg

 

From the looks of the pictures these were made from 2 different pieces of wood then glued together. That is one of the best things that could be done as the opposing wood grains will help stabilize each other and stop the warping process.

I agree on the finish enamel etc. usually wont hold up to the heat of everyday use. If a very glossy look is desired a Cyprus rosin finish would be my choice. You might also want to try Olive oil as a finish. Food grade and will actually take a lot of heat. Also make a great finish for wooden bowls that are going to be used for food contact.

 

The ONLY thing I ever use for scrolled items & painted woodcarvings is Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel.  I called them and they told my that it is only good up to 200 degrees.  Above that, it will start to bubble.

 

Will not try any type of wax.  My Sweet Wife, who is an excellent cook felt that wax might melt and stick to the bottom of the (pot)(bowl).

 

Will stay with 50/50 mineral oil & BLO.  Will give them another bath in a month, let them dry thoroughly & rub with a paper bag. Currently the still have a very noticeable linseed oil smell.  Am in no hurry to give them out.

 

jerry