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How do you saw an embedded line without leaving a noticable entry hole?


Frank Pellow

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All the patterns I have attempted to saw since I took up this hobby a couple of months ago have saw lines that emanate at a open area of the pattern. I have yet to see a line that is all on its own but I except that they exist on some patterns.

Yesterday I was working on the Purple Martin pattern from Sheila Landry shown in photo #1 below. The pattern called for a big hole that I have shaded with pencil. I decided that I did not want to have such a hole and figured that I could accomplish this desired effect without a hole if I did not cut the part of the line that I have shaded in orange. But, this left me with the need for two entry holes for the saw blade.

The smallest drill bit that I could find was 1/32 of an inch and a 2/0 blade will fit through that hole. I have three different electric drills but none of them could hold a drill bit that small. Lee Valley sells what they can a “pin vise†(catalogue 81D40.27) and, using this, I was able to drill the two holes that I needed. See photo #2 below. I drilled both holes at the intersection of two lines where I thought they would be less noticeable.

Photo #3 was taken just after the saw blade was inserted through the first hole and photo #4 was taken after the sawing had been completed. The two entry holes can be seen if one examines the bird quite closely but I think that, once the bird has been painted, the holes will be quite difficult to spot.

I am seeking advice as to a better way to make this type of cut.

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You can purchase small drill bits here  http://mikesworkshop.com/newprod.htm Mikes Workshop is now owned by  Wooden Teddy bear but I believe that you can still order from Mikes website. In order to camouflage the entry hole, I taper the cut from the entry hole along the line so it is roughly in the shape of an elongated teardrop shape which causes the line to thicken gradually away from the hole so that the hole is less noticeable.

Don R

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What you are referring to is called veining. Don above gave you a good source for a mini collet that will hold small drill bits. They also sell mini drill bits to fit different sizes of blades.

Another source for mini collets and drill bits is http://www.sloanswoodshop.com

The mini collets allow you to use mini drill bits in your drill press. Drill the hole at an intersection of two veins and the hole will virtually disappear.

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The big box store lowes has a$29.drill bit holder that i use in my drill press I love it you won't bend this one so it will wobble.Very well made

 

All the patterns I have attempted to saw since I took up this hobby a couple of months ago have saw lines that emanate at a open area of the pattern. I have yet to see a line that is all on its own but I except that they exist on some patterns.

Yesterday I was working on the Purple Martin pattern from Sheila Landry shown in photo #1 below. The pattern called for a big hole that I have shaded with pencil. I decided that I did not want to have such a hole and figured that I could accomplish this desired effect without a hole if I did not cut the part of the line that I have shaded in orange. But, this left me with the need for two entry holes for the saw blade.

The smallest drill bit that I could find was 1/32 of an inch and a 2/0 blade will fit through that hole. I have three different electric drills but none of them could hold a drill bit that small. Lee Valley sells what they can a “pin vise†(catalogue 81D40.27) and, using this, I was able to drill the two holes that I needed. See photo #2 below. I drilled both holes at the intersection of two lines where I thought they would be less noticeable.

Photo #3 was taken just after the saw blade was inserted through the first hole and photo #4 was taken after the sawing had been completed. The two entry holes can be seen if one examines the bird quite closely but I think that, once the bird has been painted, the holes will be quite difficult to spot.

I am seeking advice as to a better way to make this type of cut.

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when i run into that what i do it put the entrance hole on a radius, or if a straight vein in the middle of the line, then feather out the spot where the entrance hole is. basically widening the vein just a bit where the entrance hole is and blend it in.

if that makes sense

Edited by tomsteve
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Yes, all good advice.  The only thing I can think to add is, when buying the small bits (I use #63 through #71 mostly) the advantage of buying them from some place like Mike's or Sloan's is you can buy specific sizes and you can but them in bunches.  These small bits break, so it is worth buying a dozen or so at a time.  If you buy a set you will probably get some sizes you will not need or use.

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I live for these small holes so i use a 2/0 or 3/0 blade jewelers blades.  They leave some burrs on the back but cleans right up with a spot of sandpaper.

 

Also I use #74 bits and a small jewelers drill, the spiral kind.  I get me bits from bens scroll saw online.  he has alot of super small ones. 

 

You can put the hole right on the line like you did but wont see it.  

Edited by crupiea
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I use a Dremel in a Dremel workstation that makes the device a small drill press.  I use different size collets, depending on the bit size. It also doubles as a spindle for the small sanding drums.

 

 

Ward

This is what I do if I have to. Most of the time I use a 1/16" in my drill press and just open it up in a tear drop shape as has been mentioned. But if I have too I will resort to my Dremel with a small collet. 

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WOW, lots of responses!

 

I thanks all of you who responded to my question and gave me good advise and information.  I will summarize what I learned:

  • As I suspected, this is a common practise and it even has a name -"veining"

 

  • There is a whole other system of drill bit sizing that I did not know existed.  I have many drill bits but they are all either metric or imperial.  By the way, I don't think it's good that there is yet another measuring system but  what I think hardly matters.

 

  • There is at least one saw blade size smaller than 2/0, and that is 3/0.  I have yet to find out where I can get that size in Canada, but I will search around later this morning.

 

  • There is a technique called "feathering out" that can be used to sort of hide the hole.  MrsN was even kind enoght to illustrate this technique with a drawing.

 

  • Lots of people use a drill press to insert holes and one can get really small collets for these really small drill presses.  By the way, my drill press is a "monster" standing over two metres high and on a wheeled based so that I can move it around my woodworking shed.  I didn't know that such small drill presses existed.

 

Receiving this voluminous, rapid, and valuable response here on the Scroll Saw Village prompted me to pay the annual fee and become a "supporter" of the site.

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OK, I have some follow-up questions. 

 

There has been lots of information here about smaller drill bits and the smallest saw blade that I have heard about is 3/0.  But, I found an Olson chart that says that a 3/0 blade requires a 1/32 inch hole.  I found out on the project that started this thread that a 1/32 inch hole can be seen.  Is the Olson chart wrong?  Are there smaller blades and, if so where?

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The link will show size of bit for the different Flying Dutchman blades.  And at the bottom of the page is info on the mini drill bits.  Looks like they are available for your area.

 

https://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

 

Larry

 

 

Frank,

 

if you scroll down on that page until you see the "New Spiral" blades (about 3/4ths of the way down the page) , it is the only section that lists the 3/0 spiral blade.  It also says the drill size recommended is a #70.  Keep in mind these are spiral blades and if you have not used them they take some getting use to.  Some, like me, love them, others hate them.  Anyway, that #70 blade is .028" dia or .7112mm in dia.  a little smaller than 1/32 which is .07934mm.

Edited by Scrappile
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Frank, I use these small drill bits quite a bit, they are an invaluable resource. I can use them on my full size drill presses without using any collets, maybe you should try yours to see if they will work without the collets also. One thing though, make sure that your drillpress is set at its lowest speed if you try this.

Len

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an olsen rt 2/0 is .022" wide. a 1/32 bit is .03125".

a number 73 bit is .024 and a 74 is .0225.

 

personally i look at the blade size and then go to my drill bit chart to determine which bit to use.

now if someone could make them small drill bits so i dont lose them......

 

 

oops...heres the chart i use

http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm

Edited by tomsteve
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  • 2 weeks later...

I received the #70 twist bits and Flying Dutchman New Spiral #3/0 blades from Mike's Workshop very soon after placing my (international) order.  Thanks Mike.

 

Today I gave them a try. As others have said, the spiral blades take some getting used to.  I find that it is difficult to cut a line that does not wobble.  However, after about an hours practice, I managed to cut some decent embedded lines.  I then showed them to my wife and she could not tell where I had drilled #70 size entry holes.

 

Again, I thank everyone for their help.

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