Sparkey Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 There seems to be a lot of talk lately about spiral blades. Some people trying them for the first time, some trying them again and some saying you can't cut anything with detail. The FD new 3/0 spiral are the only blades I use for fretwork. I stack cut three of these with the 3/0 spiral out of 1/4" maple plywood. New Guy, tomsteve, Lucky2 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Roy Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Lovely job Rusty, you don't seem to have any problems with the spirals. Rob Roy. Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TripleJScroller Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Very nicely done! This is a perfect example of when spirals are the right tool for the job. Sparkey and tomsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoney Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Your project turned out great Sparkey! I use spirals with great success when the need arises. Some projects would be impossible to cut using flat blades. One type of project that comes to mind is fretwork of such dimensions that make it impossible to turn. Charles Dearing does some huge fretwork and he uses spirals exclusively on every project he cuts. I will sometimes use spirals and flat blades on the same project. I think the problem some have with spirals is they give up to quickly, as they do take a little practice and patience to get used to. Edited January 11, 2016 by stoney GrampaJim, Sparkey, Scrolling Steve and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 (edited) Very well done! I just placed an order for a gross of 3/0 new spirals and a gross of 2/0 new spirals. I am trying to use the 2/0's for the larger cutouts (although I do not like them as well as the 3/0) just to save on blades. I break a lot of 3/0 blades. The down side of spirals is I cannot cut a sharp point. So sometimes I cut the spot out with a spiral and then go back with a flat blade where a sharp point is required. I did it quite a bit when I scrolled the "Viking Worrier". Charles Dearing, as I have read, uses a No. 5 spiral. He can get by with it because of the size of his projects. It would be too large of a blade for the size portrait I normally cut, I think. He also has a video where he shows it is possible to make a sharp point using a spiral. I have tried it many times but have only succeeded once. I will keep trying, maybe someday I get it down. Edited January 11, 2016 by Scrappile oneleggimp, tomsteve and Sparkey 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FranMike Harley Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Beautifully done, Sparkey !!! What's the overall dimension of that piece ? Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Well done!......The 3/0 ns is also my go two blade! Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Beautifully done, Sparkey !!! What's the overall dimension of that piece ? The piece is 15" tall and 10" wide. FranMike Harley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young_Scroller Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 you did a wonderful job on that! where did you get the pattern for that? might have to try it, thanks for sharing Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Beautiful! Got my first spiral blades today. Tired them on some 3/4 Oak. It seemed like they left a rough cut and it was super slow going. Is that normal? Thanks, dave Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I bought the pattern at scrolleronline.com, sorry I can't remember who made it. Dave the spirals probably aren't good for 3/4" hardwood. I use them on 3/8" hardwood and stack cut plywood. They work good for those. When I cut 3/4" hardwood I use a flat blade. Scrappile and tomsteve 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 I agree with Rusty. Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 Wowsa Rusty, what a beautiful cutting, you definitely got all there was to get out of that pattern. Impressive! Len Sparkey and amazingkevin 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 I dropped my jaw seeing your work here.none better Thank you for showing your expertise with the spirals There seems to be a lot of talk lately about spiral blades. Some people trying them for the first time, some trying them again and some saying you can't cut anything with detail. The FD new 3/0 spiral are the only blades I use for fretwork. I stack cut three of these with the 3/0 spiral out of 1/4" maple plywood. Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ged3 Posted February 24, 2016 Report Share Posted February 24, 2016 Rusty, that's lovely quality work, I was thinking of using a spiral blade and after seeing what you have produced I might give it a go now! Best Regards Ged Sparkey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Some patterns just lend themselves better than others to using spiral blades. They are also an acquired taste, with a bit of a learning curve. I learned scrolling with flat blades and it was several years before I had my first need to use spirals. I don't use them often but my first experience almost did me in. After a little practice, I was able to control the cut with them just fine, but I had an awful time getting them to stay in the blade clamps of my Dewalt. I tried every trick I knew, roughing the blade clamps and the blade ends with sandpaper, several methods of untwisting and/or flattening the ends. I broke so many blades, some just by tensioning them, even some just by trying to flatten the ends, that I almost gave up on the project. I gritted it out and finished the cutting and was determined to find a better way. I went to flat end spirals the next time and things went much better. My latest experience called for a smaller blade, as the pattern had some pretty fine detail in it that the flat end blades I had were just too big for. I got some FD #3/0 and #2/0 spirals and worried that I would have the same problems I had in my first go round. I'm happy to say that I only had relatively few problems getting them to stay in the clamps. Untwisting the ends was much easier than before. The #3/0's were pretty delicate and I did break several of them, but only after cutting with them for awhile. I'm still more accustomed to flat blades and will continue to use them for most of the time, but if a pattern appeals to me, I won't hesitate to use spirals. heppnerguy, tomsteve and GrampaJim 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrampaJim Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Well said Bill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Beautiful work Rusty. Spiral blades will never me my go to blades but at times they are the best option and when they are the best option I will use them. People, especially newbies need to understand there is no one size fits all when it comes to scrolling and scroll saw blades. The right blade type and size for one project might not be the right choice for others. You have to let the wood and the project dictate what blades to use. Don't be afraid to experiment. Also don't be afraid to change size and style blades for different parts of your project. On that design and the wood you used I would have used the small spirals for some parts of it and FD UR #1 or #3 for other parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted February 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2016 My problem is I have used flat blades a few times and ruined projects. The picture in my first post is one of the ones I ruined. I can cut anything with a spiral blade no problem. I do use a flat blade when cutting 3/4" hardwood but I don't cut it that often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Framer Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I am in the process of cutting with spirals and had same problem Bill Wilson described. I guess I need to check into those flat end spirals he talked about. Other than that I haven't had much trouble with the cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 my students love spiral blades. I use both, but lean towards flat most of the time. It always takes me a moment to re-adjust to the switch when I get to school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryD Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 I do mostly portrait style cuttings, stacked to 3/8" and the only blade I use is a 2/0 spiral. I had the same problem as all of you with twisting ends. Low blade life because of breakage etc... I almost threw them away but there is a little trick that I discovered that may help. It all depends on how the blade is mounted in the blade holder. ( Important note: I feed my blade through the bottom of my cutting and I use a DeWalt 788 ). Align your blade between the 2 holders. On your top blade holder, bring your blade down so that the very tip of your blade will be at the very top of your tightening screw but turn your blade so that the flat part of the twist is flat against the very top of the screw and your holder. Lightly tighten your blade holder to keep the blade in place. Now tighten the bottom holder as hard as you can. The blade will twist out of shape below your holder as you tighten because of the excess blade but this is normal. Release your top holder and your ready to go. You will never be able to reuse this blade again because of the damage at the bottom but there will be only a slight amount of curling or bending at the top of the blade that can be easily straightened with a pair of needle nose pliers. It may take a little time to get used to but this method really works. I found, for my purposes, the flat end spiral limited my cuttings because of the larger hole required to thread your blade through. I hope this made sense to everyone. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 I do mostly portrait style cuttings, stacked to 3/8" and the only blade I use is a 2/0 spiral. I had the same problem as all of you with twisting ends. Low blade life because of breakage etc... I almost threw them away but there is a little trick that I discovered that may help. It all depends on how the blade is mounted in the blade holder. ( Important note: I feed my blade through the bottom of my cutting and I use a DeWalt 788 ). Align your blade between the 2 holders. On your top blade holder, bring your blade down so that the very tip of your blade will be at the very top of your tightening screw but turn your blade so that the flat part of the twist is flat against the very top of the screw and your holder. Lightly tighten your blade holder to keep the blade in place. Now tighten the bottom holder as hard as you can. The blade will twist out of shape below your holder as you tighten because of the excess blade but this is normal. Release your top holder and your ready to go. You will never be able to reuse this blade again because of the damage at the bottom but there will be only a slight amount of curling or bending at the top of the blade that can be easily straightened with a pair of needle nose pliers. It may take a little time to get used to but this method really works. I found, for my purposes, the flat end spiral limited my cuttings because of the larger hole required to thread your blade through. I hope this made sense to everyone. Nice tip. I prefer not to use the spiral in my Dewalt for that very reason, too much breakage. I prefer the flat end blades for sure and for the spiral i use my RBI saw. The clamps on it are perfect for the spiral blade as it has a much larger area that is holds the blade with. the only problem is the saw I have uses an Allan wrench to tighten and release the blade but the upside is I usually can use the blade until it is dull and experience very little breakage with it. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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