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Spiral blades


Sparkey

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There seems to be a lot of talk lately about spiral blades. Some people trying them for the first time, some trying them again and some saying you can't cut anything with detail. The FD new 3/0 spiral are the only blades I use for fretwork. I stack cut three of these with the 3/0 spiral out of 1/4" maple plywood.

post-19404-0-91109300-1452531064_thumb.jpg

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Your project turned out great Sparkey!   I use spirals with great success when the need arises.   Some projects would be impossible to cut using flat blades.   One type of project that comes to mind is fretwork of such dimensions that make it impossible to turn.   Charles Dearing does some huge fretwork and he uses spirals exclusively on every project he cuts.   I will sometimes use spirals and flat blades on the same project.   I think the problem some have with spirals is they give up to quickly, as they do take a little practice and patience to get used to.

Edited by stoney
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Very well done!  I just placed an order for a gross of 3/0 new spirals and a gross of 2/0 new spirals.  I am trying to use the 2/0's for the larger cutouts (although I do not like them as well as the 3/0) just to save on blades.  I break a lot of 3/0 blades. 

 

The down side of spirals is I cannot cut a sharp point.  So sometimes I cut the spot out with a spiral and then go back with a flat blade where a sharp point is required.  I did it quite a bit when I scrolled the "Viking Worrier".  Charles Dearing, as I have read, uses a No. 5 spiral.  He can get by with it because of the size of his projects.  It would be too large of a blade for the size portrait I normally cut, I think.  He also has a video where he shows it is possible to make a sharp point using a spiral.  I have tried it many times but have only succeeded once.  I will keep trying, maybe someday I get it down.

Edited by Scrappile
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I dropped my jaw seeing your work here.none better Thank you for showing your expertise with the spirals

 

There seems to be a lot of talk lately about spiral blades. Some people trying them for the first time, some trying them again and some saying you can't cut anything with detail. The FD new 3/0 spiral are the only blades I use for fretwork. I stack cut three of these with the 3/0 spiral out of 1/4" maple plywood.

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  • 1 month later...

Some patterns just lend themselves better than others to using spiral blades.  They are also an acquired taste, with a bit of a learning curve.  I learned scrolling with flat blades and it was several years before I had my first need to use spirals.  I don't use them often but my first experience almost did me in.  After a little practice, I was able to control the cut with them just fine, but I had an awful time getting them to stay in the blade clamps of my Dewalt.  I tried every trick I knew, roughing the blade clamps and the blade ends with sandpaper, several methods of untwisting and/or flattening the ends.  I broke so many blades, some just by tensioning them, even some just by trying to flatten the ends, that I almost gave up on the project.  I gritted it out and finished the cutting and was determined to find a better way.  I went to flat end spirals the next time and things went much better.  My latest experience called for a smaller blade, as the pattern had some pretty fine detail in it that the flat end blades I had were just too big for.  I got some FD #3/0 and #2/0 spirals and worried that I would have the same problems I had in my first go round.  I'm happy to say that I only had relatively few problems getting them to stay in the clamps.  Untwisting the ends was much easier than before.  The #3/0's were pretty delicate and I did break several of them, but only after cutting with them for awhile.  I'm still more accustomed to flat blades and will continue to use them for most of the time, but if a pattern appeals to me, I won't hesitate to use spirals.

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Beautiful work Rusty.  Spiral blades will never me my go to blades but at times they are the best option and when they are the best option I will use them.  People, especially newbies need to understand there is no one size fits all when it comes to scrolling and scroll saw blades.  The right blade type and size for one project might not be the right choice for others.  You have to let the wood and the project dictate what blades to use.  Don't be afraid to experiment. Also don't be afraid to change size and style blades for different parts of your project.

 

On that design and the wood you used I would have used the small spirals for some parts of it and FD UR #1 or #3 for other parts.

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I do mostly portrait style cuttings, stacked to 3/8" and the only blade I use is a 2/0 spiral.  I had the same problem as all of you with twisting ends.  Low blade life because of breakage etc... I almost threw them away but there is a little trick that I discovered that may help.  It all depends on how the blade is mounted in the blade holder.  ( Important note:  I feed my blade through the bottom of my cutting and I use a DeWalt 788 ).  Align your blade between the 2 holders.  On your top blade holder, bring your blade down so that the very tip of your blade will be at the very top of your tightening screw but turn your blade so that the flat part of the twist is flat against  the very top of the screw and your holder.  Lightly tighten your blade holder to keep the blade in place.  Now tighten the bottom holder as hard as you can.  The blade will twist out of shape below your holder as you tighten because of the excess blade  but this is normal.  Release your top holder and your ready to go.  You will never be able to reuse this blade again because of the damage at the bottom but there will be only a slight amount of curling or bending at the top of the blade that can be easily straightened with a pair of needle nose pliers.  It may take a little time to get used to but this method really works.  I found, for my purposes, the flat end spiral limited my cuttings because of the larger hole required to thread your blade through.  I hope this made sense to everyone.  

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I do mostly portrait style cuttings, stacked to 3/8" and the only blade I use is a 2/0 spiral.  I had the same problem as all of you with twisting ends.  Low blade life because of breakage etc... I almost threw them away but there is a little trick that I discovered that may help.  It all depends on how the blade is mounted in the blade holder.  ( Important note:  I feed my blade through the bottom of my cutting and I use a DeWalt 788 ).  Align your blade between the 2 holders.  On your top blade holder, bring your blade down so that the very tip of your blade will be at the very top of your tightening screw but turn your blade so that the flat part of the twist is flat against  the very top of the screw and your holder.  Lightly tighten your blade holder to keep the blade in place.  Now tighten the bottom holder as hard as you can.  The blade will twist out of shape below your holder as you tighten because of the excess blade  but this is normal.  Release your top holder and your ready to go.  You will never be able to reuse this blade again because of the damage at the bottom but there will be only a slight amount of curling or bending at the top of the blade that can be easily straightened with a pair of needle nose pliers.  It may take a little time to get used to but this method really works.  I found, for my purposes, the flat end spiral limited my cuttings because of the larger hole required to thread your blade through.  I hope this made sense to everyone.  

 

Nice tip. I prefer not to use the spiral in my Dewalt for that very reason, too much breakage. I prefer the flat end blades for sure and for the spiral i use my RBI saw. The clamps on it are perfect for the spiral blade as it has a much larger area that is holds the blade with. the only problem is the saw I have uses an Allan wrench  to tighten and release the blade but the upside is I usually can use the blade until it is dull and experience very little breakage with it.

 

Dick

heppnerguy 

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