cossoft Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 This may be off topic, but hey, it doesn't say (The Wooden) Scroll Saw Village... Has anyone any experience with scroll sawing aluminium? I'm thinking of basic grade sheet stuff, perhaps just a few millimeters thick. This would be for things like decorative grills, gratings, silhouettes etc. A lot of for wood tungsten carbide tooling works on aluminium too. Do you use lube or protection (such as clamping between ply sheets)? I've tried it without both and it can be done, and it's typical to jig saw aluminium anyway. It gives a reasonable finish and you can then sand /file the edges. Have no idea of blade life though. If they're made of HSS then that's no different to cheap hacksaws and drills. My saw only takes those pinned blades so they might be stronger than the professional flat ended ones but isn't strength only a corollary to feed rate? Any experiences to share..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 I have cut the very, very, very thin aluminium and I used 2/0 jewelry blades and I have cut 2mm copper also with the jewelry blades. My next step is to cut some silver that my daughter got me for my birthday, hopefully that will be in the next week or two. Marg Scrolling Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 I have not cut aluminum but I'm sure it's no trouble. Check with hotshot (aka Randy). He cuts a lot of coins and does some delicate work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 There is a lot of woods harder than aluminum. unseeing the right speed is the key to cutting it don't run too fast .you might try some packing tape on top for lubricant . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotshot Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) As Dan says above, I do cut a lot of coins which are usually cupro-nickel with pure nickel on the outside. I also cut pure copper coins. I have not tried aluminium, but I would think it would be easier to cut that the stuff I do. I use Jewelers blades, but those are not pinned. I would suggest finding a blade with a high tooth count. The blades I use leave a smooth finish, so there is no need to touch anything up with a file. As for lube, I've tried the lube sticks by Olsen, but I couldn't tell that it helped. I don't use oil because I usually have patterns attached to my work, so the oil would mess them up. If you are using spray adhesive glue (3M77 for example) to hold the patterns, the oil will release the pattern about as fast as mineral spririts, so another reason I avoid oil. I have recently switched to using superglue and releasing with Acetone, which seems to hold better. From the projects you describe, it sounds like heat will not be an issue. If you deside to try something much smaller, and if you are cutting intricate pieces, you will find heat will become an issue for you. The smaller and more intricate the piece, there will be less metal to dissipate the heat, so the further into your project you go, the less metal, and more heat issues. Besides burning your fingers, the bigger issue is that heat will also break down the which ever glue you are using and release the patterns. I try to be conscious of this and to stop to let things cool back down when the metal starts getting too warm. If you are drawing your pattern on the metal with a marker or something, oil might work for you. I'm not stingy with blades, so when they start to dull, I change them. It's not worth trashing a project to save blades. I hope you found something helpful in all of that :-) Please post some of your work, we would all like to see it. ------Randy Edited January 16, 2016 by hotshot LarryEA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 I have cut aluminum many times. Nothing too special. If cutting thin aluminum, I stack it with scrap 1/8 plywood to keep the metal from bending. If you are cutting plain aluminum watch your fingers, the metal conducts the heat from the friction of the blade and can get hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted January 19, 2016 Report Share Posted January 19, 2016 mikes has a special blade for aluminum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cossoft Posted January 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 mikes has a special blade for aluminum Err, what's "mikes" please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted January 20, 2016 Report Share Posted January 20, 2016 (edited) Err, what's "mikes" please? 'Mikes' --- mike's workshop scroll saw blades sold business to The Wooden Teddy Bear, Inc. bought Mikes Workshop You can still buy thru Mikes but actually it is Wooden Teddy whom you are buying from. Can't leave out... www.sloanswoodshop.com Who also sells any blade you want Edited January 20, 2016 by LarryEA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knucklebuster283 Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Made the short trip to Sloans Wood Shop. Every good people to deal with. Will be going back often. Only 15 miles from my house.Not a pro by no means but I highly recommend them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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