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Do you wax your Scroll Saw table top


Sam777

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Not an "expert" but I have owned a scrollsaw for over 60 years! Yes, I do have my first one, and it does still work! Now is used very very little, but, I will keep it .The original book on that old Craftsman 11" said to use candle wax (beeswax) on the blades and the tin table for a lubricant!

 

I have used the candle stubs on them ever since, white works best or the translucent ones. as that leaves a clear residue and does not stain the wood.

 

In fact; even did it again today. I just lay the candle sideways and rub it around,  seems to work well.

 

A very fine sand paper 400+  and a random orbit sander can remove the scratches; if they bother you.

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Yes I do wax and yes the top of the EX does mark up easy but it does not have any negative effects I can tell.  I apply my wax using nylon steel wool like pads.  Klingspor makes them.  For me they work far better then steel wool.  One note.  Before I wax I clean the surface using one piece of a pad and mineral spirits.



http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/nw06216/

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I wax my saw tops before I start working every day that I'm in my shop. Johnsons Paste wax is my choice. I used Butchers paste wax for years, until the can that I had been given, ran out. I switched to Johnsons after getting sticker shock from the Butchers wax price. There doesn't seem to be any difference between them, except for the price, when used for waxing machinery. I even lubricate the gears, slides, and trunnion ways in my tools with it, applying it with an old tooth brush. The surface of the wax dries so sawdust doesn't stick to it like other lubricants do.

 

Whatever wax choice you make, AVOID USING SILICONE BASED WAXES. Once silicone gets on wood you will never be able to get a finish to stick to where the silicone has landed. If the silicone product is sprayed in your shop you will get fish eyes in your finish everywhere the droplets of silicone have landed. I have banned anything containing silicone from my shop after making this mistake in my last shop. I don't worry about the Johnsons or Butchers waxes because a light wipe down of my projects with mineral spirits before finishing removes them easily. Getting silicone completely off of anything is nearly impossible.

 

Charley

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I've used Johnson's Paste wax for many years on all my woodworking equipment, including the scroll saw table. As others have noted stock slides much better and it prevents rust.

 

I agree with Charley, silicon based products can have a terrible effect on finishing. I'm very cautious where and how I used those products. I'm especially cautious with WD-40 which is really a penetrating oil. I use it when I need to remove a rusted fastener on something.  That said, if it works for you Roly,  great. You have to stick with what works.

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I've used Johnson's Paste wax for many years on all my woodworking equipment, including the scroll saw table. As others have noted stock slides much better and it prevents rust.

 

I agree with Charley, silicon based products can have a terrible effect on finishing. I'm very cautious where and how I used those products. I'm especially cautious with WD-40 which is really a penetrating oil. I use it when I need to remove a rusted fastener on something.  That said, if it works for you Roly,  great. You have to stick with what works.

Your right there Berry it works for me. :thumbs:  I don't use it as a coating on wood or spray it around the shop because it only goes on my saw tables also blades and as the instruction below says it dries fast, WD40 is not just a penetrating oil any more there are lots of different products now, check out the site it might surprise you, here's a picture of the one I use.

 

Waterproof and fast drying for high pressure performance. Eliminates sticking & binding and prevents rust & corrosion. Operating temp -35°C to +200°C. For use on metal. Includes smart straw feature.  Enjoy you waxing guys. Roly

post-2228-0-74911200-1455817330_thumb.jpg

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I use Johnson paste wax on all my tool surfaces also. My 788TypeII table has what I call a rough machined surface. I am a machinist by trade so am not impressed with the finish at all. But ig I use the paste wax often the wood slides very nicely. I like the idea that CharleyL had about using on the gears and slides etc. I'll have to give that a try.

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I live in a very dry climate and have never waxed any of my tools or tool tables. I have had my DeWalt for over ten years and it has no rust what so ever. I have never felt that my wood is in anyway difficult to maneuver on my saw table so I never saw any need to wax my saw table. This week, however, I got thinking about how many people use and suggest doing it, I have to confess I have nothing to loose by giving it a try. I am slow to change, as many of you already know , and what the heck, I just might give it a try

 

Dick

hepppnerguy

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I count the mars on my EX as proud battle blemishes.  If I see a picture of an EX that looks pristine, I'm thinking that the saw does not get used much.  I think Wax will help, but I don't think it will eliminate that effect completely.

 

They bothered me a little initially, but that wore off and now it's not a big deal.  Initially, it is like getting that first scratch on a new car.

 

--------Randy

Edited by hotshot
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Ok Guys,

I thank all of you for the reply and advice.

NO, the scratches don't bother me, but I thought I might be pushing too much down on the wood pieces as I'm cutting. As you guys may have noticed, I am new to scroll sawing with a scrollsaw. In the past (about 30 + years ago) I used a manual scrollsaw for about 5 years (none-stop). (I tried to attach its picture but I can't find the attach button here).

I just bought a lightly used EX-16. I am still learning and have a loooooonnnng way to go some of you guys' level.

So will ask a lot of questions as I cut more.

Thank you all for the contribution :)

Sam

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