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#$%# FD hockey sticks


JimErn

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Some of the patterns I am interested in seem designed for spiral blades in the fretwork area, so once again I thought I would try them, the first time was a disaster.

 

I made hockey sticks out of the first two FD spiral blades I tried to mount in the saw.  Any tricks to getting them clamped without ruining them?

 

I see Olson makes a spiral with flat ends, I may have to try some of them when I run out of FD spirals if there is no secret technique I can learn.

 

On another note I can not believe that with today's metallurgy scroll saws are still using screws for clamping the blade.  Does anyone know of a finger clamp that can be retrofitted?

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Go to a hardware store and buy a tube of anti siege. apply this to the clamping screw. this makes it easier to tighten down the blade screw and it makes them hold better. you can loosen the screw easier. kit also saves the  blade holder from wear. I have used it for about 30 years and I bought my second tube lasdt year at a cost of $5

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Some of the patterns I am interested in seem designed for spiral blades in the fretwork area, so once again I thought I would try them, the first time was a disaster.

 

I made hockey sticks out of the first two FD spiral blades I tried to mount in the saw.  Any tricks to getting them clamped without ruining them?

 

I see Olson makes a spiral with flat ends, I may have to try some of them when I run out of FD spirals if there is no secret technique I can learn.

 

On another note I can not believe that with today's metallurgy scroll saws are still using screws for clamping the blade.  Does anyone know of a finger clamp that can be retrofitted?

I'm with you on blade clamps,Don't like screw ones .Delta saws have clamps to hold the blades and are the best thing for spirals in my book!

Edited by amazingkevin
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Couple things could be going on.  If your blade clamps use set screws/thumb screws, first check the set screw to make sure it's threaded in past the inside wall of the clamp.  If the set screw has backed into the clamp body, then the thumb screw will push the blade into the screw hole and kink the blade.

 

The other thing that causes that is if the blade isn't resting flat between the set & thumbscrew, it will kink when the thumbscrew is tightened.  In other words, if the set & thumbscrews meet on a section of blade that is not flat between them, the thumbscrew will try to flatten it, often causing the hockey stock affect, if the blade stays in the clamp at all.  This can be especially problematic in the bottom clamp, where you can't see it as easily.  To solve this problem, I suggest taking two pairs of small needle nose pliers and untwist the ends of the blades until you have flat ends that are parallel to each other.  In my experience, this works much better with Flying Dutchman blades than with Olson.  When I tried it with the Olson blades, they broke, more often than not.  the FD blades untwist pretty readily.  Flat end blades are great and easier to work with, not they aren't available in all the sizes.  I needed some #2/0 and #3/0 spirals and only FD had them that small, but they didn't have flat ends.  They did untwist nicely though.

 

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

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I have found that using the smaller 2/0 or 3/0 FD blades, I have to be very careful with clamping the blade. As stated here, the blade will bend or break if not lined up flat against the holder screw. Be sure the end of the screw tightener is lubricated enough to turn when you tighten against the blade. I have not had any problems with the flat end blades in my DeWalt 788. Good Luck

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