Router question

[GrampaJim]

I am a cheapskate (gee, never said that in a post before ). 

Whenever I cut a pattern that needs a base - like Steve Good's eagle - I have a friend do a 1/4" round over on the base piece with his router/table.  Not wanting to make myself a pest, I was thinking about getting a small trim router and doing it myself.  Is that a good idea or do I really need a full size router and table??

 

This might seem like a dumb question, but before I started scrolling, any woodworking that I attempted provided my family with a lot of amusement, but not much else.

I usually work in oak if that makes a difference.  

Thanks, Jim

[Scrappile]

Much safer with a table, in my opinion.  Does not have to be an expensive fancy table and for what your are talking about you don't need a huge router.   I helped a friend build this bench top one years ago when he first started woodworking.  He still uses it.

 

http://www.woodstore.net/plans/shop-plans/tool-bases-stands/2428-Benchtop-Router-Table.html

[Bill WIlson]

I have a router table (2 actually) 2 other full size, hand held routers and a small trim router.  I love the trim router for easing edges.  I often use it with a 1/8" roundover bit to just break the sharp corners on larger items like furniture and chests.  I bought it just for that purpose.  I also user my router table.  It really depends on the size of the piece.  Larger pieces, I round over the edges on the bench, with the trim router.  Smaller pieces I may use the table.  However, the trim router is small enough to be easily controlled with one hand, leaving the other hand free, to hold the piece.  If I didn't have the trim router and were doing it with a full size router, I would probably do more on the table.

[bandaideman]

I have 2 full size routers a craftsman old one gift from my dad and a porter cable in table always. I started out with a rotary tool and router bits dermal and sears used to make but do not see them any more. I use a trim router Dewalt got it on refurbish sale and have not had trouble with it at all. I think the choice of what to use depends on your fear level. like was said the table is safer. I have used the trim router on what you are talking about it does good just watch fingers, toes and hands.  I don't try to take the whole amount at first pass It seems to work out nicer.

[Phantom Scroller]

Jim. 

             I have three routers one in a table one for my dovetail jig and a small one for working on a rubber mat on a table which stops the job moving as the router goes around so the answer is yes but as Paul said it better with a table and you can make one out of ply drill a hole and mount the router underneath I've even seen them between to horses on a table and a couple of clamps to hold the table on. Roly

[orangeman]

I have a question on a router.

 

I have a router table and have used it occasionally.

 

How would I do a round over on an oval piece of 3/4" thick maple? The oval is 6" x 3.5"

 

Up until now I have gone to Hobby lobby and bought the ovals already rounded.

 

bb

[Scrappile]

I mount a round over bit in my router table and run the wood against the bearing  on the bit.  Watch to keep fingers away from the bit.

[Sparkey]

I use a router without the table. Just put a piece of carpet pad under the piece of wood you are going to router to keep it from moving. No clamping needed.

[amazingkevin]

i don't have much experience with routers,But going slow with a smaller horsepower  one  sounds like a good bet

 

I am a cheapskate (gee, never said that in a post before ). 

Whenever I cut a pattern that needs a base - like Steve Good's eagle - I have a friend do a 1/4" round over on the base piece with his router/table.  Not wanting to make myself a pest, I was thinking about getting a small trim router and doing it myself.  Is that a good idea or do I really need a full size router and table??

 

This might seem like a dumb question, but before I started scrolling, any woodworking that I attempted provided my family with a lot of amusement, but not much else.

I usually work in oak if that makes a difference.  

Thanks, Jim

[crupiea]

Word to the wise.

 

Dont use your new router in the dining room.

 

Learned that lesson yesterday.  Who knew they produces alot of sawdust?!

 

 

[Lucky2]

Jim, routers can be quite dangerous, it takes some practice to get used to using one. To round over the edges on an oval properly, it should be done on a router table. It will take more than one pass with the bit, to get the complete round over cut. And to start the cut, you should have a guide pin in place for safeties sake. Plus, seeing as it's oak your thinking of using, be prepared to do some sanding, as there will be a few burn marks on the edges.

Len

Edited March 2, 2016 by Lucky2

[ubgoofy2003]

Definitely, a router is a dangerous tool if not handled carefully. I bought a small table top router table at Sears & mounted the router to it & is very good to use. Maybe $40 or $50  plus the router. You have to adjust the height for each cut that you make. Sometimes you need to make more than one pass if you are cutting deep into the wood.   I have a plunge router also, but, use the table for most all my work. I use it for picture frames mostly. You have to respect that bit in the router, because it is very high speed & will grab the wood if not handled properly. You need to practice, practice & get some on hand advice or help learning.  Good Luck 

[Bill WIlson]

Orangeman,

 

Roundover bits should have guide bearings on them.  The guide bearings limit how far in from the edge of the board the bit can cut.  It serves a similar purpose as a fence would.  There are several sizes available, depending on how much of the edge you want to round over.  For a piece that size, I would prefer using the table, but as someone already mentioned, it helps a lot if your table has a starting pin.  You're going to be feeding the wood into the bit against it's rotation.  If you aren't careful, it can catch and kick back at you.  Typically this isn't as likely with something that has a nice gentle radius like your oval, especially if you are taking light cuts.  Free handing (without a fence) a profile on pieces with sharper curves and points can be problematic, especially without a starter pin. Sometimes a climb cut can be used, but it's not something I would recommend to a beginner. 

[Kepy]

I'm cheap so I make a 12" cube that I can mount the router in.  One open side allows access to the router.  I think there are 3 or 4 in my shop as I don't like changing router bits so each has a different bit mounted for the types of cuts that I use.

[orangeman]

Bill,

 

I'm not familiar with the concept of a starting pin. I'll have to look at that further.

 

Also, none of my bits have bearings - need to check that out as well.

 

thanks for your response.

 

bb

[stoney]

Bill,

 

I'm not familiar with the concept of a starting pin. I'll have to look at that further.

 

Also, none of my bits have bearings - need to check that out as well.

 

thanks for your response.

 

bb

 

Yea Bill router bits without bearing guides behave much differently.   There is a wealth of information available on using routers  and the different types of bits correctly.   Please do an online search.   youtube should have some instructional videos.

[oldhudson]

The simple answer is yes you can use a trim router to make a 1/4" round over cut. Routers are great tools for cutting profiles in wood. I'd argue that after the table saw or RAS it's the most versatile tool in the shop.

 

That said it can be a difficult tool. Chucking up the cutter correctly; the direction of feed; insuring the router and work- piece are held firmly. Most round over bits have a guide bearing to limit the depth of cut. The bearing is held by a screw and but the screw can prevent routing a full profile because the head of the screw comes in contact with your bench. When routing by hand, routers can be "tippy" but trim routers minimize that issue. It generally isn't necessary to cut a profile in a single pass. Making multiple passes, increasing the depth of cut after each pass will minimize any difficulty in and minimize burning the stock. (Oak can burn if you try to take too big a cut or if you feed too slowly.)

 

As in any woodworking, it's the blade or cutter that does the work - so don't get cheap there. Try to get an Infinity, Freud, Whiteside or Amana router bits. (I'd stay away from HF. I'm sure someone will push-back on that. That's okay. I'm sure we are all grown-ups here.) While a trip through CL will have lots of routers for sale, trim routers are really sought after and harder to come by.

 

My trim router is the De Walt 611PK. IMHO this is a neat package you get a fixed base router and a plunge router and one motor that easily goes between the two bases. It's well balanced, easy to grip. And has LED lights in the motor that light the work.

 

Having a router table really adds a lot. I made my first router table from pw and hard board and used it for a number of years before I gave it to a new woodworker and purchased a commercial table. It's a rare project that I do that doesn't see the router and table at least once. 

 

Good luck with your decision. I added a couple of pics of a recent picture frame where I routed the profile. For the mitered spline joint I used a slot cutter at the router table.

 

 

[Bill WIlson]

Orangeman,

 

If you want to route an edge profile on an oval, I strongly recommend getting bits with bearing guides on them, whether you route on a table or otherwise.  A starter pin is a fixed pivot point that mounts in your router table top.  By placing the wood against it and easing it into the bit, it minimizes the risk of kickback.  Not all router tables are configured to accept a starter pin, but if yours isn't, you may be able to drill/tap a hole to accept one.  Do a little internet search to familiarize yourself with the concept.

[tomsteve]

routers are a dime a dozen at pawn shops.

pretty decent ones at decent prices on CL,too.

even benchtop router tables.

[Chiloquinruss]

Since this is a scroll saw forum I will make an assumption that we all have some wood working tools.  If that is the case check out the many great diy / instructable router table projects that you can Google.  I have a Harbor Freight table and use it almost on every project.  So far on the table I use ONLY bits with bearings.  As mentioned above PLEASE be careful using a router, they do BITE!    Russ