Sam777 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Hello all, I was cutting a 3/4" Knotty Alder (soft) piece of wood using a new #5 FD-UR blade. Is #5 not large enough for that? It felt like the blade is dull but it was brand new. I have a EX-16 and I had to fight with that piece of wood to cut a straight line. I had to cut at about a 10-12 degree angle to a straight line. I am not sure it is the saw or the blade but that blade sure felt like it was dull. I appreciate any hints. Thank you all Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I cut Alder a lot and I have no problem but a do know that a scroll saw blade naturally does not cut in a straight line like other saws do. You are always cutting on an angle with them. One gets used to that after awhile. I have no answer for the hard to cut problem as I have found that to be a problem. I will try to see if I have that particular blade and give it a go on a piece of Alder, tomorrow Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandaideman Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I would think it would cut OK. did you try a different blade to see if the same thing happens. If it is cutting that far off check that it is not upside down. check that tension is right. check the blade is 90 degrees to the table. Let the blade do the cuting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Johnson Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 When I have to cut thicker woods I use the Polar blades. More clean up on the back side though. Let the blade do the cutting and don't rush it! Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrolling Steve Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 My experience has been a #5 FDUR should be plenty of blade........I cut 3/4 Red Oak with it a lot making Trivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Sam, A #5 is plenty of blade to cut 3/4" wood. try different wood and blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 The size of the blade depends on the type of wood I use olson's blades and on 3/4 I usually use a #7 but on extra hard woods I use a #9 crown blade, they are a little more aggressive but you have to take it a little easier. But as Dick says all scroll saws cut on an angle but after a while you never notice it., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 It sounds like a tension problem to me. Pluck the blade. It needs to have a high "ping". If it goes "clunck", it's not tight enough. If that's not the problem, then try a bigger blade like a #7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 I also would use an FD Polar #5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 From my experience a #5 FDUR is what I use. Sometimes I go to a #7 if using soft wood. I would try another blade. It is possible that the blade wants to follow the grain. Maybe try coming in from the opposite direction too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeman Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 For 3/4" woods of all types (cherry, walnut, maple, etc.) I ONLY use PEGAS Modified Geometry blades: #1 - #7. I have found them superior to Flying Dutchman blades. For puzzles from 1/4" Baltic Birch I will use the Flying Dutchman puzzle blade. I haven't tried Olsen blades yet. bb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Sam, a #5 blade should be fine for cutting 3/4" stock, and cutting at an angle to the blade is normal also. It's possible that you got a bad blade, but, I doubt it. Did you change the blade to see if there was any difference in cutting? That's what I do if I'm having an issue with a blade, it lets me know if maybe I should try a different style or size of blade. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Thank you all for the reply. YES. I did change from a new blade to another new blade:) same issue. OK, I understand how one cannot push straight and needs to go in on an angle specially to get a straight line cut. I think some of you saying that I may need more TENSION I think is the issue. Those blades are very "spongy" flexing back & forth even with very little pressure. I have tightened the tension on my EX16. I think I need more tension but how do you know when you get enough? I guess keep tightening until the blade feels right I was looking at the Olson blades last night but got so confused with the different types and gave up. Would someone give me the exact part numbers for an Olson blade with would be good for 3/4 wood? I know you guys said the the #5FDUR should be fine, but I would like to try the Olson blades. Actually, I know my blade is NOT at 90 back/forth. I am not sure if I am causing that by not properly seating the blade in the bottom yoke? Could that be my problem? Since we are on the BLADE issues I have more questions, please put up with my dumb ones: On an EX-16, seating the blade in the bottom yoke, should I position that blade as far down as possible? so when I lower the top yoke it does not push the blade down? and how do you make sure that when you tighten the screw on the bottom blade, that the blade is at a 90 deg to table. Thank you all again for all the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Sam, first to tighten the blade to the proper tension, you should pick it like a guitar string, and it should give you a high pitched ping back. That's all I've ever done, and it's worked fine for me. Another way to test for tightness, is to apply pressure to the blade after it is tensioned. Use you index finger and press on the side of the blade, you should not be able to push the blade sideways anymore than about 1/8". To check for front to back pressure, you do the same thing. After a while, setting blade tension will become habit, and you won't even think about it. As for cutting 3/4" stock, it depends on what type of wood your cutting, but, you'll hardly ever use a number 7 blade for it. I mostly use a #3 or #5, but sometimes I can get away with a #1 like I stated it depends on what type of wood I'm using. As for what size to use in Olson blades I can't help you, I only use the Flying Dutchman blades and the numbering system is different. Yes, your blade probably has a bit of overcut, cutting forward at the top a little more than the bottom. Most saws do that direct from the factory, unless it's severe I'd leave it as it is. It probably can be adjusted by rotating the motor, but like I stated I'd leave it as is. To be sure that your blade is cutting as straight as possible up and down, you should install the blade to the back of the clamp yoke on the top as well as the bottom. I do that with my EX21, and I have never had any issues. For positioning the blade in the clamp, I make sure that the bottom clamp screw is over the blade with very little showing on the bottom. Then the top clamp screw will have any extra blade up through the yoke, but it won't be much. You could tighten the clamp screws up on the blade once it's in position, then you could use the tension knob to tighten up your blade. If you do it this way though, you're always frigging with the tension. Once you get the blade tension set, you shouldn't have to reset it every time you switch blades. If you insert the blade the same way every time, you shouldn't have to frig with the tension. I haven't touched the tensioning knob on my saw for a very long time. If you take your blade and attach the bottom clamp first, you can apply downward pressure on the upper arm of your saw while clamping the upper clamp. That will take the back and forth play softness your experiencing away, and it stops you from having to always play with the tension knob. It will make it harder to close the top tension lever, but, not that much harder. If you find doing this makes the top tensioning lever to stiff to close, then just reclamp the top blade clamp. I don't own an EX16, but I imagine the blade clamps are the same as on the EX21. I hope this solves some of your issues, if not, ask again. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Thank you all for the reply. YES. I did change from a new blade to another new blade:) same issue. OK, I understand how one cannot push straight and needs to go in on an angle specially to get a straight line cut. I think some of you saying that I may need more TENSION I think is the issue. Those blades are very "spongy" flexing back & forth even with very little pressure. I have tightened the tension on my EX16. I think I need more tension but how do you know when you get enough? I guess keep tightening until the blade feels right I was looking at the Olson blades last night but got so confused with the different types and gave up. Would someone give me the exact part numbers for an Olson blade with would be good for 3/4 wood? I know you guys said the the #5FDUR should be fine, but I would like to try the Olson blades. Actually, I know my blade is NOT at 90 back/forth. I am not sure if I am causing that by not properly seating the blade in the bottom yoke? Could that be my problem? Since we are on the BLADE issues I have more questions, please put up with my dumb ones: On an EX-16, seating the blade in the bottom yoke, should I position that blade as far down as possible? so when I lower the top yoke it does not push the blade down? and how do you make sure that when you tighten the screw on the bottom blade, that the blade is at a 90 deg to table. Thank you all again for all the replies. Why Do Scroll Saw Blades Break? And how do I prevent it? Scroll Saw Blade Tension Softwar .http://www2.woodcraf...blade-chart.pdf Squaring the blade on a scroll saw - YouTube Here you go ,these might help you friend! :thumbs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Montserrat Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 http://www2.woodcraft.com/PDF/Olson-scrollblade-chart.pdf here is the chart from Olson showing which blade to use for what - maybe that will help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) Thanks again to all. Thank you Len for the detailed guidance. I increased the tension from the top back of the EX-16 BUT the wondering feels worse. So I started checking front to back blade movement and it is BAD. I tried to re position the bottom of the blade and pushed it back in the upper clamp but the issue is the same. So I took a video of me holding a square aluminum block which shows how bad the movement is. Thank you all GETTING DISCOURAGED HERE :sad:P Please someone help me to attach that video so you guys can see it. Sam Edited March 6, 2016 by Sam777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 You need some of the EX scrollers here to help you.. NOT I But, go online meantime and do searches describing your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 You could go back and edit the header of this post to reflect more as to the problem... You now know it is not the blade or the wood Better yet... Start a new post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Thank you Larry. Would someone with EX give some advice? Also, I would like to attach a video to a post. How can I do that? Thanks Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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