Alexander Helbich Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 So, I am currently fooling around more and more with a scroll saw, and enjoying it more then I thought I would. I was using cheap Fir plywood which I could pick up for 5-10$ at the local hardwood store. After a bunch breaking on me, I have given up and trying to find a new way around. What would be the best, but not expensive material for someone in my situation to use? I don't want to go out and buy 100$ sheet, which half of it would most likely go to waste, or screw up on. I HAVE done some pieces, just some small line works, and understand how it all works. I do have a bunch of scrap plywood, 3/4 thick, but it seems it might be to thick for what I was planning on doing - Small lettering is tricky! Any advice on what to pick up? - Picture attached is what I did and what I am trying to add onto - Please be kind amazingkevin, lawson56 and Birchbark 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Alex, you can use most if not all types of wood to practice with. To tell you what type of wood to use for a certain project, we should know what the project is. For the map you posted, you could always use pine or fir stained the color you want. Other than that, should find a retailer of domestic woods,or, check with any cabinet makers to see what they might have for scraps. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 A lot of people pick up some free furniture on. Craig's list for free and use that wood. Dick heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 (edited) Check out your neighbours that might be wanting to throwing out some good wood. I plane down pallets as well orange boxes you'll be surprised what will clean up. Roly Edited March 5, 2016 by Phantom Scroller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawson56 Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 I use white pine for most of my work,then I use 1/4 inch burch plywood.I will stack cut it.Unless I am using it for backer boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Baltic birch plywood is very popular with scrollers. Around here a 5'x5' sheet runs about $20-$25 depending on thickness. Nice thing about it is that even the thin material is very strong. It's commonly available in thicknesses from 1/8" to 1". Even thinner and thicker sizes can be had at some specialty dealers or on-line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 (edited) home depot has underlayment plywood for about $13 for a 48 sheet. I have used it for several projects and it works fine if you are going to paint, or just use it to proctice on. Edited March 5, 2016 by ike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexander Helbich Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Awesome, Thanks guys - I was using cheap plywood and pieces were not holding together when I did think cuts, due to crappy layers in the plywood. Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 So, I am currently fooling around more and more with a scroll saw, and enjoying it more then I thought I would. I was using cheap Fir plywood which I could pick up for 5-10$ at the local hardwood store. After a bunch breaking on me, I have given up and trying to find a new way around. What would be the best, but not expensive material for someone in my situation to use? I don't want to go out and buy 100$ sheet, which half of it would most likely go to waste, or screw up on. I HAVE done some pieces, just some small line works, and understand how it all works. I do have a bunch of scrap plywood, 3/4 thick, but it seems it might be to thick for what I was planning on doing - Small lettering is tricky! Any advice on what to pick up? - Picture attached is what I did and what I am trying to add onto - Please be kind Plywood that's been wet falls apart when cut ,i get free wood from the dumpsters and cabinet shops ,bulk pick up ,friends etc.3/4 " plywood will slow down your cutting speed so its a good thing to practice on .thin woods 3/8 1/4 and 1/8 cut very fast so slow your machine down and cut slow while holding the wood down to keep total control of where the blade cuts.you'll fond that one of your fingers acts as a pivot point for all your turns,etc.Fir woods are very soft and fragile .I don't like using them because of breakage.hope this helps! Phantom Scroller 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexander Helbich Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 Plywood that's been wet falls apart when cut ,i get free wood from the dumpsters and cabinet shops ,bulk pick up ,friends etc.3/4 " plywood will slow down your cutting speed so its a good thing to practice on .thin woods 3/8 1/4 and 1/8 cut very fast so slow your machine down and cut slow while holding the wood down to keep total control of where the blade cuts.you'll fond that one of your fingers acts as a pivot point for all your turns,etc.Fir woods are very soft and fragile .I don't like using them because of breakage.hope this helps! Thanks, I picked up some thicker 3/4 oak plywood from my parents house, and going to try some practice on them when my new blades come in the mail. Been using regular tooth blades, from Home depot, but the tear out was ridiculous. So I ordered some Reverse blades online to test them out and see how much of a difference they will make. Practice is the key I've been told. haha. I might try the dumpsters or cabinet shops around town - walk in and ask majority? I've figured out how to use one hand as a pivot point, but trying to get the technique of how fast to turn it or how wide/short to make the turns, It all comes with practice, I know that. Any tips will help - That's for sure!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 I buy all of my plywood from Lowes. You can buy a 4 by 8 sheet of birch or maple 1/4" thick for $19. The best part is they will rip it down to 1 foot by 4 foot pieces for free. You can get the same deal at Home Depot. I have used a lot of that plywood and have never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 I'm sure this has come to light, but craigslist has a lot of free wood. Might be pallet but all good to practice with. Old furniture etc, all good to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young_Scroller Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 my local menards sells 2'x4' pieces of 1/4" birch for only about $7 and thats mainly what I use for portraits and such, I usually stack 2-3 and cut them all at once. also buy quality blades such as olsen or flying dutchman, they will make a HUGE difference as to how your saw cuts LarryEA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryD Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Hey Alex, Sounds like you are using a luan plywood. This is not made for scrolling because it will always blow out of the back because there is nothing there to hold it in place. The wood fibers in the back are only held together with glue. You can still practice with it but you have to support it. Most saws have a large gap on the table top for the blade, Try to close it off a bit. If you can get your hands on X-Ray film cut it in to a rectangle about 2-1/2" by 3-1/2" , drill a small hole in it based on your blade size, thread your bade through it, tighten your blade and tape the film to your saws table. This adds great support and I have been using this method for years. Eventually your blade will make the hole bigger so simply change it up for another piece of film. Also don't forget that blade size and saw speed can affect the your cuttings. I hope this helps. TerryD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.