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jerry1939

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This applies to any & all shapes or letters.

 

As an example, suppose you want to remove a rectangle from your piece. You drill the entry hole near the (middle?) of the line, on the inside. Saw your curve to the line and proceed, possibly all the way to the corner.

 

WITH THE SAW RUNNING, BACK CLEAR ALL THE WAY TO THE ENTRY HOLE. Rotate the wood 180 degrees and back into the first cut, far enough to where you were on the pattern line. Now when you saw towards your original taper from starting, it is MUCH easier to continue straight, because the first cut is holding the blade in alignment. If you don't do it this way and keep sawing in the original direction until the piece drops out, it is harder to get a sharp, crisp line when you try to clean up the first, and succeeding, taper(s). If it's a thicker piece of wood, you have a tendency to (crowd)(bend) the blade.

 

Hope this didn't confuse you. It sure did me!!

 

jerry

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This applies to any & all shapes or letters.

 

As an example, suppose you want to remove a rectangle from your piece. You drill the entry hole near the (middle?) of the line, on the inside. Saw your curve to the line and proceed, possibly all the way to the corner.

 

WITH THE SAW RUNNING, BACK CLEAR ALL THE WAY TO THE ENTRY HOLE. Rotate the wood 180 degrees and back into the first cut, far enough to where you were on the pattern line. Now when you saw towards your original taper from starting, it is MUCH easier to continue straight, because the first cut is holding the blade in alignment. If you don't do it this way and keep sawing in the original direction until the piece drops out, it is harder to get a sharp, crisp line when you try to clean up the first, and succeeding, taper(s). If it's a thicker piece of wood, you have a tendency to (crowd)(bend) the blade.

 

Hope this didn't confuse you. It sure did me!!

 

jerry

Thanks Jerry !

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