jerry1939 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 This applies to any & all shapes or letters. As an example, suppose you want to remove a rectangle from your piece. You drill the entry hole near the (middle?) of the line, on the inside. Saw your curve to the line and proceed, possibly all the way to the corner. WITH THE SAW RUNNING, BACK CLEAR ALL THE WAY TO THE ENTRY HOLE. Rotate the wood 180 degrees and back into the first cut, far enough to where you were on the pattern line. Now when you saw towards your original taper from starting, it is MUCH easier to continue straight, because the first cut is holding the blade in alignment. If you don't do it this way and keep sawing in the original direction until the piece drops out, it is harder to get a sharp, crisp line when you try to clean up the first, and succeeding, taper(s). If it's a thicker piece of wood, you have a tendency to (crowd)(bend) the blade. Hope this didn't confuse you. It sure did me!! jerry Scrolling Steve 1 Quote
dgman Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Jerry, I call that an "in and out". I name all the maneuvers I teach so my students can remember them easily. Quote
lawson56 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Sounds good to me.I just usually drill as close to the line as I can. Quote
New Guy Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Scrollsaw Workshop has some very nice videos for the beginner that I recommend. WigWag Workshop 1 Quote
LarryEA Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 I do that a lot. As Dan said, 'In and Out" Good suggestion Jerry. Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 9, 2016 Report Posted March 9, 2016 This applies to any & all shapes or letters. As an example, suppose you want to remove a rectangle from your piece. You drill the entry hole near the (middle?) of the line, on the inside. Saw your curve to the line and proceed, possibly all the way to the corner. WITH THE SAW RUNNING, BACK CLEAR ALL THE WAY TO THE ENTRY HOLE. Rotate the wood 180 degrees and back into the first cut, far enough to where you were on the pattern line. Now when you saw towards your original taper from starting, it is MUCH easier to continue straight, because the first cut is holding the blade in alignment. If you don't do it this way and keep sawing in the original direction until the piece drops out, it is harder to get a sharp, crisp line when you try to clean up the first, and succeeding, taper(s). If it's a thicker piece of wood, you have a tendency to (crowd)(bend) the blade. Hope this didn't confuse you. It sure did me!! jerry Thanks Jerry ! Quote
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