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Applying glue.


Dave Monk

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Do I ever.  I picked this up from the late Dirk Boelman.  It required a 1" trim roller, a piece of wax paper, and some foam pipe insulation.  Replace the standard roller with a piece of 1" foam pipe insulation.  You might need to add a small amount of tape to ensure a tight fit.  Then pour out some glue on the wax paper and coat the roller like you coat a roller to paint.  The more glue on the roller the more on the project.  Then apply the glue to the back of the project.  Let it sit 2-3 minutes and then pressure on your backer.  I recommend clamping or applying weights of a hour or two for the most secure bond. 

 

After done just take a wet paper towel and wipe the roller off.  It will last for 100's of projects.

 

 

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All I use is a small paint brush, I can't imagine using a roller of any type on thin script lettering. A fine tipped model paint type paint brush, is great for putting the glue right where I want it.If the script is larger/wider, I use a wider tipped brush, the glue washes right out of them.

 

Len

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I've often thought that there has to be a better way, as I'm frantically trying to dab glue on the backs of portraits, within the open time and without getting too much on.  I've pondered the idea of using some sort of roller, but never tried it.  I like what I'm reading here that other folks have successfully done that.  I'll have to give it a try.  I wonder if a veneer roller would work well?  It's made of hard rubber, so glue won't soak in and should peel right off if it dries, but I don't know how well it would spread the glue.

 

Thanks for the tips!

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When I buy glue  I transferred it to a catsup/ mustard squeeze bottle and when I apply it i have very little squeezing out .and when I do a large project I just use a brush. and when the bottle gets a little low and is hard to squeeze it out  i make sure the pcap is on and turn it upside down I have a v block to lean it against,,

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