A couple of questions

[rdatelle]

Hi everyone. First, I started cutting some of the 3D birdhouses out of oak, ash, cherry, cedar and bass. It seems when I cut the oak or cherry, I'm getting burning. Not sure if I'm going to slow or to fast. I'm using a #5 blade. The rest are coming out pretty good except for the harder woods. Also does anyone have a pattern for those 3D reindeer. I looked on here but couldn't find any. Thanks, Ralph.

[Bill WIlson]

Cherry is especially prone to burning.  What kind of #5 blade?  For compound cuts, a skip tooth blade or something similar with larger gullets (no reverse teeth) is usually recommended.  They clear the sawdust out of the kerf better, thus reducing heat build up.  If you don't have any of those available, use the biggest blade the pattern will accommodate.

[WayneMahler]

When cutting thicker wood, it is best to wrap a piece of packing tape around it. This lubricates the blade. Bill made a good point, using a skip tooth blade does clear the dust from the kerf better and that reduces the heat build up.

[Ron Johnson]

Depending thickness of stock (¾", 1") a number 5 or 7 skip or double tooth should be fine (speed being a factor). As Wayne indicated wrapping packing tape helps. Lube stick (Bees Wax) used for lubriating blade works well (band saw blades as well).

Edited April 19, 2016 by Ron Johnson
removed pattern

[rdatelle]

Thanks everyone. I was using a #5 reverse. I'm cutting 1/1/2 x 1 1/2. I was out of the Polar skip tooth. I just ordered some Polar #3 and #5. Thanks again.

Edited April 18, 2016 by rdatelle

[rdatelle]

I want to thank Rob for getting me some Raindeer patterns. Thanks again Rob.

[orangeman]

Ralph,

 

What brand of #5 reverse tooth?

 

There are #5 reverse tooth blades and there are #5 reverse tooth blades. Not all are equal.

 

My go to blade for really hard hardwoods is the Pegas Modified Geometry #5 reverse tooth blade.

 

Available at your local Woodcraft store. Or by mail order from a number of sources.

 

bb

[rdatelle]

Hi Brian, how you doing. My blades are from Mike,s workshop. I was using 5 ur because I was out of the polar skip. As I remember, I do have some of those Pegasus blades that you told me about a while back. I forgot all about them.lol. I'll try using them tomorrow. Thanks for reminding me.

[Montserrat]

So yesterday I cut purpleheart with Pegas Modified Geometry #5 reverse tooth blade and my cuts were burning terribly.  Then I remembered that I had bought theLP-Lube Stick at Lesley's Patterns.  And let me tell you, after putting that on the blade, it cut through the purple heart almost like it was butter.  No more burn, no more effort.  http://www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/scrollsaw_accessories.htm I repeated the process several times and the blades lasted a lot longer too!

Edited April 19, 2016 by Montserrat

[orangeman]

Monti,

 

That is good to know about that lube!!!!

 

Do you think it would work on band saw blades as well?

 

bb

[rdatelle]

Thanks Monti, I'll give that a try. Can't hurt

[amazingkevin]

W W, The things you learn in a day here! :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

[Lucky2]

Monti,

 

That is good to know about that lube!!!!

 

Do you think it would work on band saw blades as well?

 

bb

Yes Brian, it works on bandsaw blades, I use it on mine all the time.

Len

Edited April 19, 2016 by Lucky2

[Honeycow]

How often do you have apply the lube?

[Montserrat]

Whenever i felt it was getting a little harder... 

[Lucky2]

 I use it just about every time I use the bandsaw, it's not expensive and it's easy to apply. I have it hanging on the wall right next to the on switch, that reminds me to use it.

Len