Input requested on my choice of blades

[Iguanadon]

This is not the usual "What blades are best?" or "What blade should I use?" question/topic, so take a deep breath.      As we all know, the answers to those questions is pretty much "Whichever ones you like and you cut best with." along with of course depending on what you're cutting, what kind of wood, how thick, etc, etc.  Way too many variables and I personally have over a dozen different blade types that I've simply tried since they're so inexpensive it's nice to be able to experiment.

 

I won't get into the whole Olson -vs- Flying Dutchman thing as everyone has their preference.

 

For those that haven't seen my work on the Bragging Rights forum, I am focusing on animal puzzles lately and I have found the blades that I prefer, but wanted to ask the more experienced members for their thoughts and any input you may have.

 

I am cutting 3/4" thick poplar and after experimenting and trying various blades I'm using a #5 Crown Tooth for the outline cut of the entire piece out of the board.  I find it leaves an incredibly clean and smooth finish and then I switch to a #3 Olson Mach Series to cut out the puzzle pieces.  I wish they made a #3 in the Olson Precision Ground Tooth because I very much like those in the #5 and #7 when cutting other things.

 

Anyway, I have had issues with other thinner blades (#3 and smaller) with them not cutting in a "straight line" and I believe that's due to how the blades are manufactured and have burrs that cause them to cut "crooked".  I can adapt and adjust to it, but I've found it to be frustrating and the blades I am now using I have excellent control with.

 

And by the way, I'm lazy and I don't do any sanding, so it's important to me to use blades that leave a clean finish.

 

So, yes, I know I've answered my own question in that I'm happy with what I'm using, but... I'm still a newbie and in my 50+ years of life I've learned that if you don't ask questions, you may be missing out on some good information.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Iggy

Edited May 21, 2016 by Iguanadon

[rjR]

I have run an electric scrollsaw since the fall of 1953 and still learn new  things and still ask questions!

 

I also still have that saw; it still works, but, gets very little use as it is limited by it's "no-motor" cutting system!

 

The saw does not have any ROTATING parts but cuts excellent if you are patient enough!  Who can figure out the system!

Edited May 21, 2016 by rjR

[Lucky2]

Iggy, there's not much to add, you already like what your using, and your getting a good cut from them. And they don't make the PG blade in the #3 size, so I guess your stuck with what you've got.

Len

[NC Scroller]

My blade of choice would be a #7 reverse tooth for the outside and a #5 reverse tooth for the inside pieces. This works best for me. As you know there is a trade off in blade sizes. The larger blades tend to flex less but cut a wider kerf. The smaller blades just to opposite. If you are happy with your choices stay with them but never be afraid to experiment especially when using different woods or different thicknesses.

[LarryEA]

Good reading and nice cutting.

[Iguanadon]

I was hoping there was a secret among scrollers along the line of "There is this hermit scroller that lives in the Rocky Mountains that makes his own blades that are equivalent to a #3 but they don't bend, cut perfectly straight and they never get dull... but you have to know the secret code word in order to get one..."

 

Oh well, I guess not.  

 

Seriously, I did want to ask just in case I was missing some option I wasn't aware of.  Thanks as always.

[Loskoppie]

Hi

 

My blade question is about the last job I did. Every thing looks not to bad but the last fine bits on the outside went badly as if it was bent or what. The wood from the top is ok,

but the under side is bad on only the last bit. I think it was the blade at the end just went. The most of the object seems to be not to bad.

 

Barbara

[NC Scroller]

Hi

 

My blade question is about the last job I did. Every thing looks not to bad but the last fine bits on the outside went badly as if it was bent or what. The wood from the top is ok,

but the under side is bad on only the last bit. I think it was the blade at the end just went. The most of the object seems to be not to bad.

 

Barbara

Barbara from what you describe I think you started with a new sharp blade and finished with a dull blade. When a blade get dull we all tend to push our wood instead of feeding our wood. This pushing caused the blade to bend and flex. On the top surface the cut appears straight and vertical but on the bottom the cut is on an angle and may even fall into another cut area. The best advise I have is to change blades like someone else is paying for them.

[amazingkevin]

Oh i love hearing about blades,I haven't tryed alot of them but learned to use what i have.

[Jim McDonald]

All blades have a burr that makes them pull to one side and most of us don't even notice it anymore (just like you said--you can make it work).

 

As for that super secret handmade blade that never gets dull and cuts straight, I think it left on the Last Train to Clarksville.

[Loskoppie]

Thank you all for your help. You guys are the reason I can't give up getting trying.

[Loskoppie]

Barbara from what you describe I think you started with a new sharp blade and finished with a dull blade. When a blade get dull we all tend to push our wood instead of feeding our wood. This pushing caused the blade to bend and flex. On the top surface the cut appears straight and vertical but on the bottom the cut is on an angle and may even fall into another cut area. The best advise I have is to change blades like someone else is paying for them.

 

Thank you for your advise.

[Montserrat]

All blades have a burr that makes them pull to one side and most of us don't even notice it anymore (just like you said--you can make it work).

 

As for that super secret handmade blade that never gets dull and cuts straight, I think it left on the Last Train to Clarksville.

Since I live in  Clarksville, let me assure you that is has not arrived yet!

[SCROLLSAW703]

As a suggestion, try thinking of your blade decision this way. The thinner the material, & tighter turns you're going to be making, the smaller blade you'll want to use. The thicker the material, & less turns you're going to make, use a bigger blade. Tension your smaller blades with less tension, and your bigger blades with more tension. Now, there's a fine line with the smaller blades & tension. If you don't get them tight enough, you won't be able to control the blade, it will heat up & break. But, if you tighten the blade to much, you'll be able to control it, but if you try to feed to fast, you'll heat the blade & break it. It sounds like you've found the blade you like, it's just a matter of adjustment. Keep a close eye on the tension, too. Especially when you start getting close to the end of the life of the blade. Something else that might help, take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper & take your top & bottom thumb screws out of the blade holder, rub them on the sandpaper until you've got a nice, even pattern of straight lines on your thumbscrews. This will give your blade something to pull against instead of a shiny surface. Every style of blade cuts its own path. But, there are variables to get longer life out of your blades. Patience is a virtue. Good luck.

[rjR]

I have one other thing to add.

 

Most of us use some sort of blade lube,  make sure you do!  They cut better and LAST a LOT Longer.

I use  old white candles o; and sometimes put my pattern on clear packing tape; markers write well on it, but can rub off with your fingers. Put a second layer over the critical lines and it works very well.  Peels right off and if line was missed by fractions only YOU will ever know!

 

The candle idea was with that saw's directions in 1953 and I have used it ever since