watco danish oil

[WHODAT]

i've been told if you mix equal parts of varnish, paint thinner and BLO it will be like danish oil has anybody ever

tried this.

[LarryEA]

Yes...

Also 'can' do poly, thinner and BLO

[Lucky2]

No Larry, it won't be anything like Danish Oil, it will be more like a wipe on poly. If you want it to look like Danish oil finish, just buy Danish oil. This mixture can be dangerous if not used properly, well it's not so much how you use it, it's more about how you go about cleaning up the mess leftover. If you use a cloth or paper towel to apply it, you should unfold the cloth/paper towel and lay it out to dry, or store it in a non combustible container. It has been known to self combust, the heat from the three ingredients drying is what causes this to happen. So, please use a bit of caution when using this mixture.

Len,

[LarryEA]

No Larry, it won't be anything like Danish Oil, it will be more like a wipe on poly. If you want it to look like Danish oil finish, just buy Danish oil. This mixture can be dangerous if not used properly, well it's not so much how you use it, it's more about how you go about cleaning up the mess leftover. If you use a cloth or paper towel to apply it, you should unfold the cloth/paper towel and lay it out to dry, or store it in a non combustible container. It has been known to self combust, the heat from the three ingredients drying is what causes this to happen. So, please use a bit of caution when using this mixture.

Len,

_{^{Yes it will! Try a search....}}

The components of a 'Danish Oil' varnish are Boiled (not raw) Linseed Oil and an oil based varnish all diluted to a desired 'watery' consistency with a paint thinner. Polymerised (not raw) Tung oil may be used in place of Linseed Oil and the thinners may either mineral spirit or pure Turpentine.

'Tru-Oil' is made from a mixture of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish and 11% linseed or Tung oil. The exact specification of the components are, of course, a trade secret.

 

 Len, he asked if anyone had tried this...

and you left out that all drying oils are combustable including Danish,

Any oil based finish (oil based poly) is combustable.

As for dangerous, just breathing lacquer and varnish is a hazard.

Edited May 22, 2016 by LarryEA

[NC Scroller]

I have seen all forms and formulas of home brews and used a few such as these.

 

Poly - BLO - MS

Poly - Tung Oil (Pure) - MS

Poly - MS

 

 

While it is cheaper to make most of these vs buying a pre-made, I have found they do not store well and time consuming if you plan to make a batch for one or two projects.

[Bill WIlson]

Yes, I've done it and gotten good results.  Many woodworkers already have these ingredients in their finishing supplies.  If so, it can be more convenient and a bit cheaper to mix your own rather than to go out and buy a separate product.  If you don't have these supplies already on hand, then there probably isn't much benefit to going out to buy them vs just buying the Danish oil.  You do have some control over the ratio, which may be considered an  advantage.  You can add more poly/varnish to make the blend more protective.  You can add more oil to make the finish  look and act more like a hand rubbed finish.  More thinner makes it go on easier, but will require more applications.  There's nothing really mystical about commercial Danish oils or the home made blend.  It's just another alternative that can give the hobbiest woodworker a little more flexibility.

 

And now for the requisite safety PSA.  If you use rags or paper towels to apply any oil finish, whether a commercial product or your own mixture, use caution when disposing of the rags.  Spontaneous combustion is a possibility if oil soaked rags are not handled and disposed of properly.  The simplest method is to lay them out flat to dry, on a noncombustible surface.  This is best done outdoors.  You can also soak them in a bucket of water.  There are other methods, but these are the simplest.  Whatever you do, do not ball them up and leave them lay about or throw them in a garbage can while they are still wet.  I take these same precautions with rags used to apply oil based stains.

[Lucky2]

_{^{Yes it will! Try a search....}}

The components of a 'Danish Oil' varnish are Boiled (not raw) Linseed Oil and an oil based varnish all diluted to a desired 'watery' consistency with a paint thinner. Polymerised (not raw) Tung oil may be used in place of Linseed Oil and the thinners may either mineral spirit or pure Turpentine.

'Tru-Oil' is made from a mixture of 56% mineral paint thinners, 33% oil varnish and 11% linseed or Tung oil. The exact specification of the components are, of course, a trade secret.

 

 Len, he asked if anyone had tried this...

and you left out that all drying oils are combustable including Danish,

Any oil based finish (oil based poly) is combustable.

As for dangerous, just breathing lacquer and varnish is a hazard.

Larry(Ea), my reply was to Larry(whodat), I wasn't criticizing your reply. I based my reply on personal experience, not on any internet search. I don't use Danish oil, I use blo instead. So, I guess there could be a different outcome, and maybe I should not have replied to this posting. I didn't leave out a warning on Danish oil, as I have no experience with it. And yes, I was aware that all oil based finishes are combustible, but, this type of mixture is susceptible to spontaneous combustion. I did not mention anything about the fumes from any of these items, simply because, I think that most people know how to protect themselves from hazardous fumes. 

Len

[amazingkevin]

i've been told if you mix equal parts of varnish, paint thinner and BLO it will be like danish oil has anybody ever

tried this.

I love the info coming in!I've gallon on gallons of blo sitting.