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The easiest way is probably a panel saw, but those are huge and expensive.

I like the method of setting plywood on ridged Styrofoam and using a circular saw to cut it down. The wood is supported by the foam so you don't have the bending/twisting/falling that happens when you cut on sawhorses. If you are good (or accept square-ish) you can follow a chalk line, if not clamp a straight edge as a guide. I am good with using a mostly straight 2x4 as a guide but you may want more accuracy.

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For me I think track saws are the way to go. IMHO they are simpler and easier to store than a panel saw - though still really spendy. I use a fair amount of sheet goods in my woodworking and sheet good cutting it is really critical.

 

For years, like Mrs.N, I used pink Styrofoam insulation on the garage floor but I made a straight line cutting jig. Here's a link to a YouTube video where the guy made one nearly identical to the one I used for years.

This jig couldn't be easier to make and is quite accurate. The one I made was from plans in Woodsmith Magazine.

 

I gave up cutting on the floor and now use the cutting table pictured. Made from 4 - 8ft 2 x 4's. It stores in a tiny corner of the garage when not in use. It's all half lap joints. No hardware at all holding it together. But you need a couple of saw horses too.

 

post-18045-0-23957700-1464905548_thumb.jpgpost-18045-0-09955600-1464905575_thumb.jpg

 

I back up the van and move the pw to the cutting table and make whatever cuts needs before moving the stock to the shop.

 

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Joe,

 

If you have a Lowes, they will give you 1 free cut and charge for more cuts. I have found that if you are polite and friendly, the guy usually "forgets" to charge for the extra cuts.

 

I made a mini table saw similar to this. Mounted it on the back of my miter saw stand. 2 wheels on the back for moving it. You would need a switch along side & extra electrical cord.

 

 

jerry

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Joe,

 

If you have a Lowes, they will give you 1 free cut and charge for more cuts. I have found that if you are polite and friendly, the guy usually "forgets" to charge for the extra cuts.

 

I made a mini table saw similar to this. Mounted it on the back of my miter saw stand. 2 wheels on the back for moving it. You would need a switch along side & extra electrical cord.

 

 

jerry

Home Depot cuts my 4 x 8 sheets so that I wind up with 3 pieces 32" x 47" (2 cut at no charge).  Since I don't have a truck, this size will fit in my car without any problem.  

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My Home Depot will cut 2 or 3 for free for transportation.

 

If you go in on the weekend the cuts are very approx.

 

I went in on a Monday with a cut list and layout for a large project I was working on and went back 2 days later and they had cut 5 sheets of MDF into about 30 pieces.  No charge but I passed the guy a Tim's card with $10.

 

I pays to be nice to the old guys.

 

My supplier of Baltic Birch wil cut down to 1/4 no charge but I have a table saw to do what ever I want from there.  They will do 12 x 12 no charge if you give them time.

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I buy the sheets of baltic birch and have them cut them in half at the store.  That leaves me still with 2 pieces that are about 4-5 feet long.

 

I have a foot pedal so I pull out and stand up far away and just guise it through the saw the best i can.

 

sort if a hassle but dont need to do it too often.

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Joe, I use either the table saw or the circular saw with a straight edge, it depends on the size. I find it to be a bit difficult to handle a full sheet of 3/4" stock, on the table saw. So, I use the method that MrsM has mentioned, using styrofoam as an cutting board. For sheets that have been previously cut down in size, I always use the table saw with a glueline blade to get perfect edges.

Len

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On full size sheets of Baltic Birch (I think 5' x 8' if memory serves me correctly)

I make the first cut with a jig saw, knowing that I am going to have a little waste

due to the tear-out. That cut is just to cut the sheet in half so I can now make

the other cuts as crupiea said above with the scroll saw and the foot pedal.

If you go slowly, you can really be very accurate. You may have to maneuver

the sheets by cutting some 8" x 10" or 11" x 14" pieces for portraits out of

opposite corners first so that you can cut across the full width of the sheet

depending on the depth of your scroll saw but, to me it's worth the time.

Good luck and God Bless! Spirithorse

Edited by spirithorse
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What tools do you have access to?  Breaking down sheet goods can be done several different ways, depending on conditions and tools available.  The cheapest is a circular saw or a jig saw, with a home made, straight edge guide.  If you have a table saw or a band saw, the set up for repetitive cuts is simpler and the accuracy should be more consistent, but it takes up a lot of room for infeed & outfeed space, plus you may need an extra pair of hands.  I typically break my full sheets down, out in the driveway.  I put several 2x4's or other scrap lumber of sufficient length, across saw horses and use a circular saw to get them close.  If I'm fussy about the final dimensions, then I cut the smaller pieces to precise size on my table saw. 

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If you plan to use a table saw, jig saw or circular saw to break down sheet good invest in blades made to cut sheet goods (plywood). These blades have more teeth, smaller teeth and less pitch. These blades reduce the waste from tear out and splintering. Most table and circular saw come with a general purpose blade. OK to cut 2x4 but too aggressive to cut plywood cleanly especially when you cut across the grain.

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