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Scroll saw blade trick


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Just for kicks an giggles i used my dremil with a sanding drum on the last 3/4" of the blades both sides top and bottom.Ends up i can go long time g.i. and not lose tension.Why i never thought of this i've no idea.Sand paper is fine but this way it real cleans the oil and whatever down to raw steel for gripping power!

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I had problems with my blades slipping out.I tried every thing I could think of and a lot of sugestions from this site nothing worked. I have a dewalt #1 scroll saw that I am using for a back up traded the thumb scresw and that solved my problems. so today i am going to the dewalt repair store and buy a new dblade screw at a cost of $10.49  like you kevin i put a lot of hours on my saw.

IKE

Edited by ike
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I had problems with my blades slipping out.I tried every thing I could think of and a lot of sugestions from this site nothing worked. I have a dewalt #1 scroll saw that I am using for a back up traded the thumb scresw and that solved my problems. so today i am going to the dewalt repair store and buy a new dblade screw at a cost of $10.49  like you kevin i put a lot of hours on my saw.

IKE

Good one Ike,There's scrollers and there's scrollers .Each has it's own characteristics That contribut to the same problem we all are having but exemplified more for the avid scroller.

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Why not just take your thumb screw out & rub it across 100 grit sandpaper? If the problem still persists, take a rag with a little mineral spirits on it, & wipe the blade ends down with that. If that don't do the job, check the alignment of your top arm, blade, & table. Use a business card & check the alignment of your blade with the table. Make sure your blade is tensioned to check it. If it doesn't line straight up & down with the edge of the card, release the tension & adjust the set screw in your blade holder to square it up. Use a small level to check the square of the table. Use a small square to check the square of the top arm to the table. If none of that solves the problem, most likely you're over tensioning your blade.

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Personally, I've never had any problems with the blade slipping, this is something to keep in mind though in case I ever do. Thanks Kevin.

Len

You know  that ever since i had lots of blade slippage and could not fix it .The sanding of the blade ends with the dremil has done wonders to everything.I can push hard for a long time and the blade stays locked in place

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Why not just take your thumb screw out & rub it across 100 grit sandpaper? If the problem still persists, take a rag with a little mineral spirits on it, & wipe the blade ends down with that. If that don't do the job, check the alignment of your top arm, blade, & table. Use a business card & check the alignment of your blade with the table. Make sure your blade is tensioned to check it. If it doesn't line straight up & down with the edge of the card, release the tension & adjust the set screw in your blade holder to square it up. Use a small level to check the square of the table. Use a small square to check the square of the top arm to the table. If none of that solves the problem, most likely you're over tensioning your blade.

I've tryed all the usual ways but for some reason none would help.

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If  you are going to sand the ends of your blades, it would be preferable that the sanding or grinding scratches run lengthwise, (up and down), as opposed to across the narrow width of the blade. Across the metal scratches can easily become fracture lines. In working with steel that is subject to flexing, like scroll saw blades are, you might significantly reduce the blade's life by doing this. I don't grind or sand the ends of my scroll saw blades, so I don't have any experience here, but when making leaf springs for guns and other needs, it's a known fact that scratches running across the width of the steel will eventually lead to the steel breaking at the most significant scratch. The springs that I make are always ground and sanded so that the scratches run lengthwise from end to end, or at least lengthwise in the area being sanded or ground, for this reason.

 

Maybe some of you who grind or sand the ends of your blades can inspect your broken blades very closely to see if they are breaking at "across the blade" scratches left from your sanding or grinding operation. It might be interesting information for all of us.

 

Charley 

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If  you are going to sand the ends of your blades, it would be preferable that the sanding or grinding scratches run lengthwise, (up and down), as opposed to across the narrow width of the blade. Across the metal scratches can easily become fracture lines. In working with steel that is subject to flexing, like scroll saw blades are, you might significantly reduce the blade's life by doing this. I don't grind or sand the ends of my scroll saw blades, so I don't have any experience here, but when making leaf springs for guns and other needs, it's a known fact that scratches running across the width of the steel will eventually lead to the steel breaking at the most significant scratch. The springs that I make are always ground and sanded so that the scratches run lengthwise from end to end, or at least lengthwise in the area being sanded or ground, for this reason.

 

Maybe some of you who grind or sand the ends of your blades can inspect your broken blades very closely to see if they are breaking at "across the blade" scratches left from your sanding or grinding operation. It might be interesting information for all of us.

 

Charley 

Most interesting sanding the blades like this ... i can push hard and they stay put.In all the years i've scrolled i could not do that.even turning fast in corners in 1.5 white wood they don't come loose.i think lesson to be learned here is getting some good scratches on the ends of the blades are God sent for the scroller.Less blade breakage from blades loosening up while cutting that you don't know about.

Edited by amazingkevin
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