dkaiser14 Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I'm new to scroll sawing but have had a little success doing some inlays. I'm making magnetic bottle openers with 3/4 wood with 3/4 inlay. I recently have tried some exotic wood and im having trouble with yellowheart with a wenge inlay. Im having a terrible time cutting it. Can anyone recommend the blades I should or need to be using. Also any other tips. The blades seems to burn and dull very fast. Thanks a lot for the help. Also the inlay aren't matching up at all. THANKS AGAIN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Both yellowheart and wenge can be very hard. At 3/4" doing an inlay could be tough. I'm not sure what blade to use but some of our inlay experts can help you with this. Hang in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 As Dan said. Both are very hard woods and very dense. Covering with packing tape will help lubricate the blade some. As for the size of the blade. I can't really help there, but doing 3/4" inlay will be a difficult task. One I have never tried. Blade and feed speed are key things when cutting dense hard wood. Hopefully someone can help you more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 I'm new to scroll sawing but have had a little success doing some inlays. I'm making magnetic bottle openers with 3/4 wood with 3/4 inlay. I recently have tried some exotic wood and im having trouble with yellowheart with a wenge inlay. Im having a terrible time cutting it. Can anyone recommend the blades I should or need to be using. Also any other tips. The blades seems to burn and dull very fast. Thanks a lot for the help. Also the inlay aren't matching up at all. THANKS AGAIN. We'd love to see what your doing in wood .Good or bad ! thanks friend!. WigWag Workshop and Old Joe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heppnerguy Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 I would suggest a personal message to Jim Flinn. He is an expert on inlays. He also is a very helpful and nice guy. Dick Heppnerguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted June 15, 2016 Report Share Posted June 15, 2016 I agree with PM Jim. He is the inlay expert. For tough wood, I use FD Polar #5 or #7. Polar blades are very aggressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Dave Monk is a member here, I believe he does some very nice inlay work maybe he'll chime in. Len Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkaiser14 Posted June 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 The buck inlay turned out pretty good bc it was a little softer wood. The M inlay was a little iffy but decent. I tried another recently with wenge and purple heart and had a heck of a time. Blades dulled quickly and left gaps bigger then I want once done. Looking for the right blades to use with this thick and hard woods. Thanks for your replies and anymore info. On techniques and blades would help me out lots. Thanks for your time. Ps there is a strong rare earth magnet embedded in the back to catch bottle caps. Doug 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Wow those look pretty great Dan. I haven't tried inlaying yet but Jim and Dave are probably the guys to help. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 are you using the angled cut method? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkaiser14 Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Yes I am using the angled cut method, approx. 2 degrees. I did pm Jim and he was a lot of help and a nice guy to talk to. Thanks for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 If the wood is burning, you are cutting too fast for that blade. Overheating the blade will remove the temper and it will dull very fast. Consider using a different blade or slowing the saw. Use an ultra reverse tooth or Polar blade to remove the sawdust more efficiently. Sawdust not removed from the cut will build up and can overheat the blade and also slow the cutting process.. Frequent application of blade lubricant, either a wax stick or by covering the work with packing tape, can reduce burning. Any one or all of the above may be required to solve your problem. Charley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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