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got polar blades,bad move they are not skip tooth at all


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Kevin....yes they are skip tooth blades. My understanding is that a skip tooth blade is one where every other tooth is missing....that is a long distance certain between teeth which allows the saw dust to be removed.

 

The Polar blade has a not to big set, how much each tooth is bent out. A large set will result in a more aggressive cut but at the expense of quality of the cut.

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Kevin, no matter what type or style of blade you use, you will not be able to speed cut the birdhouses. They are something that take time to cut, trying to cut them out to fast will result in poorly cut ornaments.

 

Len

I was cutting real good with scroll reverse #7's.When i got the polar im had to run the machine full throttle to make the same cutting time as the scroll reverse.not good.The teeth are so close to each other i thought they were hack saw blades.Now i have 2 gross of blades i'll never use.Trades anybody? there #7 polars 11 dozen of each.

Edited by amazingkevin
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Kevin

Speed kills - Use what you have and try to relax a bit

You might find it a bit more enjoyable

You are scrolling - not racing

What are you doing reading this, shouldn't you be scrolling...lol

Fab4

I've been piece mealing doing the mini bird house for a while .Some times i'll cut perches,birds,clean up the houses with a dremil drum sander.I'm up to 193 mini bird house so far.I really like cutting them but need a good blade .Soon i'll be dipping them and hand painting them.

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I have tried # 7 and #9 blades myself and found them to be slow cutting also.  I went back to #5 polar and still like them.  Skip tooth olsens worked no better than Polar #5  but are OK.

Thanks Jim ,Guess i'll have to save them for thin woods.I did see a polar twhere every other blade is bent out for aggresive cutting but poor quality cuts in smoothness ,i'd like to try them and see what goes I think they are #12's

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I don't know what you expect in cutting mini bird housed. it takes me about 5 minutes to cut a bird house the big time is the prep work cutting blanks , applying pattern. drilling holes. i use a  Steve Good fixture to hold the bird while cutting.

hi Ike, I'll cut the first cut out of the jig and then put it in the jig for the final cut .They cut in less than a minute easy with the right blade.

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Kevin,  Never buy a large quantity of ANYTHING until you try a small sample to insure that it works as you want it to...I never buy more than 1 dozen of any new blade, until I test it out to see what it is best utilized for....Then I decide if I want to buy more or not.

what was i thinking,lol Thanks !

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keven I do not know where you got them but I made an error (once) and got the wrong blades from WTB My fault not theirs and I called and asked if I sent back with the recept and not used could I exchange for what I thought I had. I was treated well and not called names or anything and they were happy to do that. I sent them back  with a self addressed stamped envelope and they were sent to me quickly after they received the blades to exchange and my new order of what I wanted.  May call where you got them and see if they are willing to exchange. 2 gross is a lot of blades specially if your not going to use them

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keven I do not know where you got them but I made an error (once) and got the wrong blades from WTB My fault not theirs and I called and asked if I sent back with the recept and not used could I exchange for what I thought I had. I was treated well and not called names or anything and they were happy to do that. I sent them back  with a self addressed stamped envelope and they were sent to me quickly after they received the blades to exchange and my new order of what I wanted.  May call where you got them and see if they are willing to exchange. 2 gross is a lot of blades specially if your not going to use them

Yes ,your right.Had i gotten my old stand by scroll reverse i would be happy as a lark.#5,#7,#9& #12

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Kevin, polar blades are good to have around for some fret work, letter & sign cutting, things like that. The polar blade, IMO, has more tear out than a skip tooth blade, depending on the material you're working with. I work with mostly 1/2" hardwood, & they do great in most of my projects. A couple things I have learned w/the polar blade, you aren't able to turn as sharp & fast a corner as you are w/a skip tooth blade. And, the tension needs to be a little tighter than a skip tooth. I don't do much compound cutting, but a skip tooth would be my preference, or an ultra reverse blade. Every blade cuts its own trail. You just have to figure out what works best for you. It is a good suggestion to try calling where you bought the blades from, & explaining the mistake. You never know til you try. Good luck.

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Kevin, polar blades are good to have around for some fret work, letter & sign cutting, things like that. The polar blade, IMO, has more tear out than a skip tooth blade, depending on the material you're working with. I work with mostly 1/2" hardwood, & they do great in most of my projects. A couple things I have learned w/the polar blade, you aren't able to turn as sharp & fast a corner as you are w/a skip tooth blade. And, the tension needs to be a little tighter than a skip tooth. I don't do much compound cutting, but a skip tooth would be my preference, or an ultra reverse blade. Every blade cuts its own trail. You just have to figure out what works best for you. It is a good suggestion to try calling where you bought the blades from, & explaining the mistake. You never know til you try. Good luck.

I'm trapped for money every month  .It amaze me all that goes my way .If i remember i

ll call and ask ,thank.scroll revere ha been my blade  a decade

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